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6.2 diesel IP pump cylinder number 6 leak

I see it but i don't really know what to look for.
I've seen a guy on YouTube doing a rebuild of his 6.2 and buys a kit readily available and it helps the engine and crankshaft (known to fail on these engines too). Thought about getting that kit and doing that. I do like this truck n engine. Its why I'm posting so much about even the smallest leak.

Woth new copper washers in, number 7 driver side is leaking, but like a constant stream, you can barely tell there's a constant flow.
So, I've got 2 spare copper washers, not sure if I should just try to tighten that injector a bit more or cut my losses and toss in a new copper washer. Lol. I'm getting good at taking all this apart.

Dunno if exhaust backpressure is a factor in a smooth idle n engine shaking.
I'm going exhaust manifold, and straight pipe, 2.5 inches back. No resonator ni muffler. Sweet f-all. Then again, I'll double check once all the fuel circuit either burns in the engine or returns to injection pump. And not leak.

Any fuel leak can cause a rough idle.
 
hotpile82 said:
I see it but i don't really know what to look for.
I've seen a guy on YouTube doing a rebuild of his 6.2 and buys a kit readily available and it helps the engine and crankshaft (known to fail on these engines too). Thought about getting that kit and doing that. I do like this truck n engine. Its why I'm posting so much about even the smallest leak.

Woth new copper washers in, number 7 driver side is leaking, but like a constant stream, you can barely tell there's a constant flow.
So, I've got 2 spare copper washers, not sure if I should just try to tighten that injector a bit more or cut my losses and toss in a new copper washer. Lol. I'm getting good at taking all this apart.

Dunno if exhaust backpressure is a factor in a smooth idle n engine shaking.
I'm going exhaust manifold, and straight pipe, 2.5 inches back. No resonator ni muffler. Sweet f-all. Then again, I'll double check once all the fuel circuit either burns in the engine or returns to injection pump. And not leak.

Any fuel leak can cause a rough idle.
Click to expand...
On the balancer there's a rubber between the inner and outer ring, see if it has cracks or if it's separated.
As for exhaust do not do less than 3" if it's a single.
Assuming you don't have a turbo.
 
Yes non turbo. Twin exhaust. I'd like to get a Y pipe n down to one exhaust. But one thing at a time. Good to know to not go less than 3 with single pipe.

Ok I'll check out the balancer. I'm hoping it's just fuel making it idle rough.

As for injector I think I'll just haul it out and replace the washer. When the sun comes up
 
I’m trying to keep up with your issues. If I understand correctly you had a leak between an injector line and an injector. That was stopped but now fuel is coming out at the meeting of the injector and the head. You have a used copper washer in there and haven’t gotten an other. Plus, the engine idles rough.

Clean and tight is all I can suggest for the injector lines to injector fittings where fuel comes out. Fuel should not come out at the injector to head junction. Just air. I have reused dozens of the copper washers with no issues. Tighten the injectors down tight. Fuel there in my experience is always from the injector lines fitting or the return line hose cracked and leaking. Have you checked them?

Definitely check the rubber ring on your balancer for cracks or missing chunks. Or, just replace it on general principles. More than likely your shaking engine if from something with the fuel system. Crack each injector line with the engine running. As soon as fuel comes spraying out the idle should drop. If there is no fuel spraying then either that line is clogged or there is still air in the system and fuel will soon come out. If there is no idle change with fuel spraying out. Then either the injector is clogged or that cylinder has no to little compression.
 
@Barrman ,

Yes I know a lot to read. And it hasn't stopped. New issue now. Voltage regulator lol. Charging at 18 v.

Bit back to the main point, yes fuel was trickling.
I went with cleaning the tip of the inje lion line. It seems to have stopped it.
And engine idles smooth. Well as smooth as a 42 year old engine should.

I get this sweating onto the exhaust manifold. Which, it's diesel, but still worrisome. But everything is tight. I have changed all 8 copper washers torqued all injectors to 50ft lbs. Return lines are good. I mean do I just tolerate this until carbon build up or crud seals up whatever is causing this?
The exhaust manifold was always nasty coz of oul from valve covers leaking on it (I sorted that out while changing lines too)

I noticed it after a very short drive, coz that's when my voltage regulator decided to go nuts.

I regret ever touching the fuel system on this thing lol.
Also, what's the correct etiquette on different issues on the same threads. Were on page 3 of this thread and I've had 4 different issues come up lol.
Anyways, cheers for making it this far.
 
hotpile82 said:
@Barrman ,

Yes I know a lot to read. And it hasn't stopped. New issue now. Voltage regulator lol. Charging at 18 v.

Bit back to the main point, yes fuel was trickling.
I went with cleaning the tip of the inje lion line. It seems to have stopped it.
And engine idles smooth. Well as smooth as a 42 year old engine should.

I get this sweating onto the exhaust manifold. Which, it's diesel, but still worrisome. But everything is tight. I have changed all 8 copper washers torqued all injectors to 50ft lbs. Return lines are good. I mean do I just tolerate this until carbon build up or crud seals up whatever is causing this?
The exhaust manifold was always nasty coz of oul from valve covers leaking on it (I sorted that out while changing lines too)

I noticed it after a very short drive, coz that's when my voltage regulator decided to go nuts.

I regret ever touching the fuel system on this thing lol.
Also, what's the correct etiquette on different issues on the same threads. Were on page 3 of this thread and I've had 4 different issues come up lol.
Anyways, cheers for making it this far.
Click to expand...
It's your thread, you're the boss and can bring up any issue.
But if resolved an issue It's usually nice to post what solved it so future searches can yield a good solution.
In that view if the issues are completely unrelated then it might make sense to separate the posts for that reason.
 
imiceman44 said:
It's your thread, you're the boss and can bring up any issue.
But if resolved an issue It's usually nice to post what solved it so future searches can yield a good solution.
In that view if the issues are completely unrelated then it might make sense to separate the posts for that reason.
Click to expand...

Noted.
And true.
So number 6 leaking at injection pump was just a tightening. And resolved.

I'm a big guy and am reminded that "i don't know my own strengths" so I was nervous bout tightening too much.

After that was starter shaking itself loose from shaking engine.
Loctite. Lock washers etc...

Starter shook loose coz engine was shaking so bad, because I had 3 good glow plugs on driver side.
Passenger side was getting voltage but no amperage therefore no glow.
Cleaned a connector on driver side fender that has the two glow plug harness wires, and blue n pink wire on the fender. Cleaned it. Got glow, and truck started.

Moral is, IDI needs good glow plugs.

Then numerous fuel leaks... which I'm still tryna figure out. Everything is tight, torque specs respected. But still exhaust manifold is damp.

Then short drive, batteries at 17ish volts.
So, voltage regulator. I got the alternator right here next to me, having coffee then gonna slam it in the truck.


Its been a hell of a month with this truck. Fuel, plugs, starters, alternators. Who knows what's next lol
 
I have, and I don't think that's what it is. I just went for a test drive, its smooth and drive great. No leaking on the ground, but still on manifold. The smell going uphill... oh man.
I guess I'll keep looking. Return lines injection lines....
 
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