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6.2 questions. Diesel owners me pick your brain good

Just run a manual push button for GP's, it's the easiest way to not burn them out and you always get to decide how long to glow for. Ford solenoid for the draw end of things, trigger wire to push button.

Tach needs either the alt version, or stick on magnets on the damper, and I believe there is also another version that clips to an injector line and can sense the pulses which generates a tach signal. None are easy or spectacularly cheap.

Might want to check a 60 series truck out, as those did have tachs for diesels that were good size. No idea how they got signal though.

Stock exhaust was 2.25" true dual. 2.5" duals with 40 or 50 series flowmasters would give it more of a big block sound to it,n point is at the manifold outlet which is 2.25". Alledgedly they can be hogged out to near 2.5".

For wiring you'll want to wire in the HPCA too, and utilize the temp sensor. When under 120F it bumps housing pressure in the IP, which bumps timing and makes a very noticeable difference in cold starting. Much smoother and less start-up smoke.

Rene
 
Just run a manual push button for GP's, it's the easiest way to not burn them out and you always get to decide how long to glow for. Ford solenoid for the draw end of things, trigger wire to push button.

Tach needs either the alt version, or stick on magnets on the damper, and I believe there is also another version that clips to an injector line and can sense the pulses which generates a tach signal. None are easy or spectacularly cheap.

Might want to check a 60 series truck out, as those did have tachs for diesels that were good size. No idea how they got signal though.

Stock exhaust was 2.25" true dual. 2.5" duals with 40 or 50 series flowmasters would give it more of a big block sound to it,n point is at the manifold outlet which is 2.25". Alledgedly they can be hogged out to near 2.5".

For wiring you'll want to wire in the HPCA too, and utilize the temp sensor. When under 120F it bumps housing pressure in the IP, which bumps timing and makes a very noticeable difference in cold starting. Much smoother and less start-up smoke.

Rene


HPCA? My first diesel here :D

Also whats a good place to get parts for the 6.2? I'm looking for a gear driven timing set and cant find anyone that still makes it.
 
stomis your making mad, you got the wheels turning and now got me thinking about a 96-99 with a 6.2. :D except i would want a fullsize extended cab. alittle something to haul camping gear and some kayaks.

how much can a 6.2 tow respectably? if i wanted to tow my k5 around with that push it to much?
 
stomis your making mad, you got the wheels turning and now got me thinking about a 96-99 with a 6.2. :D except i would want a fullsize extended cab. alittle something to haul camping gear and some kayaks.

how much can a 6.2 tow respectably? if i wanted to tow my k5 around with that push it to much?


I was gonna go with a fullsize at first but I want something smaller for jeep trails. This is gonna be my first diesel and I'm excited.
 
Have you already picked up your s10? I know you were wanting a CC s10 and I found one down here for a great price lol
 
Have you already picked up your s10? I know you were wanting a CC s10 and I found one down here for a great price lol

I decided against going with a pickup. I did really want a crecab BUT after rethinking my priorities its more important to me to have a place to sleep for camping than an open bed.

The victim will be a 88-93 square 2 door s10 blazer.

6.2/nv3500/SYE 241/toy axles
 
Russell is currently running a NV3500 in his K5 if I'm not mistaken. Ask him though, I did and got lost about 15 words into it. He can tell you all about it.
 
All the reading I've found on the subject says he 6.2 to a nv3500 uses the same clutch as a 350 to a nv3500. I'm assuming 10in flywheel.

I'm sure russell will stop in and confirm or debunk.
 
or 11-3/4 lol whatever it is its bigger than the 10" passenger and small truck clutches
 
Yep nv3500 has the same clutch specifications as the sm465. 10 spline, same depth, same pilot. So I just have to get a clutch from a 6.2/sm465.
 
I honestly don't know how inspection is going to work for diesels. Knowing jersey it'll either be really ****ed up or nothing at all.:doah::haha:

For your app I wouldn't think twice about buying just an engine. These engines require very little wiring. What the other guys have brought up is good info. Glow plugs just do a manual setup, very easy to do. Fuel system is easy even with an electric life pump. Exhaust is very simple too, what yellowK20 said will work well and sound good too.

For a tach I'm using the Autometer that runs off the alternator. Works pretty good, don't remember what I paid though. I did buy it 7 years ago.

As for parts like timing gears and such you have
www.kennedydiesel.com
www.heathdiesel.com
www.dieselservices.com
 
I honestly don't know how inspection is going to work for diesels. Knowing jersey it'll either be really ****ed up or nothing at all.:doah::haha:

For your app I wouldn't think twice about buying just an engine. These engines require very little wiring. What the other guys have brought up is good info. Glow plugs just do a manual setup, very easy to do. Fuel system is easy even with an electric life pump. Exhaust is very simple too, what yellowK20 said will work well and sound good too.

For a tach I'm using the Autometer that runs off the alternator. Works pretty good, don't remember what I paid though. I did buy it 7 years ago.

As for parts like timing gears and such you have
www.kennedydiesel.com
www.heathdiesel.com
www.dieselservices.com

I thought I had read that when converting a gas truck to diesel that the stock in tank pump could be used as a lift pump.

Did the 6.2 have a mechanical lift pump or an electric one stock?

O and did the gear drive timing chains get discontinued all together? I cant find it anyway.
 
The 6.2 came with a mechanical fuel pump (lift pump) mounted on the block.

Sounds like you alread made up your mind on the 6.2 but I will share my experiences anyway. I bought my Blazer in '94 with 49k and it was stock minus 32" tires. 700r4 and 3.73 gears. Point being, it was a good representative of how these ran from the factory since it was low mileage and well-maintained, and had decent gears. I've seen a lot of people base their opinions on these trucks after driving a 150k unmaintained and beaten up old work truck with stupid high gears.

I daily drove mine for years and it did fine. Previously I had an '83 S-blazer with a carb'd 2.8 and the 6.2 felt a LOT faster than that truck. My dad had a new TBI 305 pickup at the time and they felt similar, and I also spent a lot of time driving late 70s to mid 80s farm and work pickups and even big block trucks of this era would be considered dogs by todays standards. In any case, I would not hesitate to daily drive a 6.2 truck to this day even after driving a 300 HP truck for the last 8 years.
 
The 6.2 came with a mechanical fuel pump (lift pump) mounted on the block.

Sounds like you alread made up your mind on the 6.2 but I will share my experiences anyway. I bought my Blazer in '94 with 49k and it was stock minus 32" tires. 700r4 and 3.73 gears. Point being, it was a good representative of how these ran from the factory since it was low mileage and well-maintained, and had decent gears. I've seen a lot of people base their opinions on these trucks after driving a 150k unmaintained and beaten up old work truck with stupid high gears.

I daily drove mine for years and it did fine. Previously I had an '83 S-blazer with a carb'd 2.8 and the 6.2 felt a LOT faster than that truck. My dad had a new TBI 305 pickup at the time and they felt similar, and I also spent a lot of time driving late 70s to mid 80s farm and work pickups and even big block trucks of this era would be considered dogs by todays standards. In any case, I would not hesitate to daily drive a 6.2 truck to this day even after driving a 300 HP truck for the last 8 years.


I do appreciate your background. I was looking for some information like this regarding the 6.2 but after watching some videos of trucks I came to the same conclusion that you did about people forming an opinion after driving a high mileage beat down truck.

So regarding the lift pump. Is there a reason that a mechanical pump is better or worse than an electric? Isnt it true that the low sulfur diesel chews threw older lift pumps? Also could the old electric fuel pump be left in place and just used as a pickup?
 
For what its worth all the 6.2 trucks I've driven have been busted down high mileage work trucks.............and i still like them!
 
Stomis, the HPCA stands for Housing pressure cold advance or something like that. It slightly advances the pump timing and bumps the idle speed by about 100 rpm. On the IP there will be one spade for the fuel cut-off, and then another couple of spade connectors. The other couple are for the HPCA. I currently run mine with a manual switch, my temp sensor is MIA.

I ran a 12 1/4" Hayes diesel puller clutch behind my 6.2. I liked it, although even being a diaphram style and with hydro pedals it was a little stiff. Really good clamp pressure though. I don't think it's physically possible to run a clutch larger than that using a normal bellhousing.

You'll either need to go to hydro-boost and all manual HVAC stuff, or run a vacuum pump of some sort. The majority of 6.2's you're gonna find out there will have a vac pump mounted where the dist would be on a gas engine. That vac pump is really only for stuff like Cruise, and HVAC...not meant for vac boosted brakes. If you find a 6.2 from a low optioned manual tranny truck it'll have a block off slug back there. Much cleaner, and better firewall clearance. My 6.2 from my Jimmy has that. It's only purpose is a gear that meshes with the cam so it can drive the oil pump.

Rene
 
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