CK5
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64 Vette….Rebuild 2.0
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
Your header tubes look huge!
What size are they?
What size are they?
I was close.
Glad you are reading ahead.
I always thought they have to be at a 90* to the pipe.
I get the tipping it up part. Keeps moisture from collecting in it when cool.
But I've never seen one in any application that wasn't 90* to the pipe.
I get the tipping it up part. Keeps moisture from collecting in it when cool.
But I've never seen one in any application that wasn't 90* to the pipe.
It doesn't really matter, I've seen them angled in a lot of race cars, it's just cheaper to machine the bung straight.
What does matter is it's angled up, so it doesn't get moisture in it and ruin it.
What does matter is it's angled up, so it doesn't get moisture in it and ruin it.
Why would running an O2 unplugged damage the sensor? It's like a little battery that makes a voltage under the right conditions. Unplugged it would just be cooler. Is it long-term moisture damage or short-term fouling from the engine running rich and the sensor can't burn it off? I'm pretty sure I've done it for troubleshooting.
Yes that's what I've read, it's a moisture thing, it needs to be heated to be kept dry under running conditions since there is moisture in the exhaust. Once the exhaust system is fully warmed up then its not necessary I believe, it's a preheater.
Weren't those narrow band? I would guess it's a different technology.
These are Hooker stainless Supercomps
Tubes are 1-7/8 OD x 46” long and a 4” collector. Just right for the 427. Probably too big for the 355, but the cool factor overruled common sense when I bought them!
No problem, its good pertinent information to have a discussion about! I have a lot to learn!
Finally got the body cart done…..kinda wish I would have got two straight casters instead of all four swivel type.
Should work good for moving it around and storing it for way too long.
When I did this 40 yrs ago I supported it by the floor pans (which have reinforced sides) on 2x12’s on plastic buckets
Should work good for moving it around and storing it for way too long.
When I did this 40 yrs ago I supported it by the floor pans (which have reinforced sides) on 2x12’s on plastic buckets
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Very cool Dave!
Why don’t you like the 4 swivels?
I built a cart for tools when I’m using the lift with 2 swivels and 2 solid mount. I wish they all swivelled
Seems like I always have to drag the one end around. .
You told me the paint could use some work…. Looks ridiculously great for how old it is in the pics.
I went diggin for the early years w this car. Found the body lift pics from 1985/1986
It was a big step in the snowball of restoration/modifications I wanted to do.
It was pretty neat to uncover the things I’d read about in “Corvette books” and see them materialize in my hands.
I used a come a long on the rear lift of the body, and some rope tied around a rafter and took up slack to keep it level as it went up. Pretty sketchy equipment, and I did it by myself. I sure wouldn’t chance it that way again!
Separated for this first time ever.
Let the tear down begin…
This wasnt what I wanted to see, lots of trapped areas that rusted the frame badly. So bad the body was literally holding the frame together. I snapped the frame off at those rear kickups where it so rusty.
Body job #. Rear bulkhead next to fuel tank.
Springs still have the sticker on them!
St. Louis assembly plant and part number on fuel tank.
It was a big step in the snowball of restoration/modifications I wanted to do.
It was pretty neat to uncover the things I’d read about in “Corvette books” and see them materialize in my hands.
I used a come a long on the rear lift of the body, and some rope tied around a rafter and took up slack to keep it level as it went up. Pretty sketchy equipment, and I did it by myself. I sure wouldn’t chance it that way again!
Separated for this first time ever.
Let the tear down begin…
This wasnt what I wanted to see, lots of trapped areas that rusted the frame badly. So bad the body was literally holding the frame together. I snapped the frame off at those rear kickups where it so rusty.
Body job #. Rear bulkhead next to fuel tank.
Springs still have the sticker on them!
St. Louis assembly plant and part number on fuel tank.
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Being new rollers, they roll easy enough but when you it pull it, its like the casters swivel in the opposite direction making it easy to bump into something. It really needs one person on each end of the car, especially when I gotta take it across my driveway with it sloping in a couple directions and a trench drain. Be easy to lose control of it I’m afraid.
Ive welded swivel casters before but these are brand new ones @ 22$ each.
Ok that makes sense,didn’t know you wanted to move it the other garage. Get your buddies to help for sure.
I ended up replacing two swivel casters with fixed ones.
Moved the body to its dedicated stall in the shop and put the frame on the lift. It’s pretty front heavy with the engine and trans in the frame so I used some ratchet straps to keep it from nose diving off the lift.
Been a while since it’s seen the sun!
Next up fire the engine and get some oil flowing, then disassemble front suspension, then strip the frame.
Moved the body to its dedicated stall in the shop and put the frame on the lift. It’s pretty front heavy with the engine and trans in the frame so I used some ratchet straps to keep it from nose diving off the lift.
Been a while since it’s seen the sun!
Next up fire the engine and get some oil flowing, then disassemble front suspension, then strip the frame.
Looking good!
Although it would be exciting, I think I would wait to fire the engine until you can get some load on it.
Although it would be exciting, I think I would wait to fire the engine until you can get some load on it.
I’m going to run it w a carburetor for the simplicity, and just long enough to circulate oil throughout.
Setting up a new FI system, a rebuilt trans, new suspension, new brake system, etc. A lot to deal with to expect a fireup and drive to load the engine right away.
I like your recommendation of putting a load on the rings.
And I’m jonesing to make some music coming out of these speakers…
Setting up a new FI system, a rebuilt trans, new suspension, new brake system, etc. A lot to deal with to expect a fireup and drive to load the engine right away.
I like your recommendation of putting a load on the rings.
And I’m jonesing to make some music coming out of these speakers…
You got a transbrake with the new trans? Could put a load on with that., and a lot of fun too, it's basically an extra clutch on a button.... 
Though if you do that you have to let off the throttle before you let go of the button if there is no tires ready to bite. Ask your trans builder first, that's my disclaimer.
Though if you do that you have to let off the throttle before you let go of the button if there is no tires ready to bite. Ask your trans builder first, that's my disclaimer.
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