CK5
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'69 K5 - Grandpa Dave's Truck

That is a hydraulic set up, that is a GREAT buy. Seriously, go nab that right away.

Martin
 
Actually I reread the ad, I am not sure if that comes with the bell housing and the pedal set up.

Martin
 
Fuel Tank Out

Removed the fuel tank this weekend. I thought this would be a pretty quick job, but rusted bolts made it no fun. I'm realizing that I have barely the right tools for this little adventure. Hoping to dig through Rhonda's (mother-in-law) garage this week for some pneumatics. The u-bolt is done for, so need to find a new one of those or rig something else.

Tank looks like it's in ok shape. Definitely some rust inside, so I tried the vinegar+salt solution along with a bunch of chain. Seemed to do ok, but there's still quite a bit of rust around sending unit opening. Might need to try acid or some other dangerous chemical before getting some anti-rust stuff in there.

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Im not sure of the brand anymore, but my TBI Suburban tank had quite a bit of rust on it, both inside and out. So obviously I painted the outside, and found a product that lined the inside. You had to clean it out just like your currently doing. Then cover the sending unit hole, pour the product in, cover the remaining holes, and flip flop it all over until your satisfied. Then pour out the excess, let dry, put back together and install. Did it 7 or 8 years ago, and its held up perfectly. Actually when I did the shackle flip this past summer I had to drop the tank, and out of curiosity I pulled the sending unit and inspected the paint like substance on the inside of the tank, and it looked just like it did when I poured it in originally. Didnt flake or clog the pump sock at all.
 
Reinstalled the fule tank

Finished cleaning out the tank last week. Repainted with bed liner, which looks nice but not really sure if it will hold up over time. Tested and installed the new sending unit and wrestled the tank back into place. I didn't put enough fuel in there to really determine if the darn gauge is working or not. Dash is coming out at some point anyway.

Cranked it up and wouldn't you know the left bank was smoking like Cheech and Chong again. Coolant level looks fine. Oil is clean. Vacuum modulator is dry. Compression test reads 180-190 on all cylinders. From looking at a bunch of threads, I'm still hopeful it's a sticky valve or just gunk from sitting around a while. Purchased a combustion leak test just in case.

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At least it moves

Pretty awesome day today. 70+ degrees in December - couldn't be a better day to get some work done.

Did a quick check on the brakes. Front pads/parts looked pretty good. Rear pads were cracked. All drums need to be turned down. Might go ahead and paint those. Front and rear differential was bone dry. Got that refilled for now, but I assume I'll need to replace the gaskets at some point. 4WD transfer case is next.

Got everything back together and cranked it up - it ran like crap. My Dad "gently" pointed out that I had adjusted the idle and mix without the air cleaner in place. Oops. Did some minor adjusting and at least got it to idle. Despite the 1/2 lb. of metal I found in the pan, went right in to gear and drove it up the road a bit. Even got into 2nd smooth. I was really expecting to hear grinding metal. Maybe that comes later in this adventure. Steering seemed accurate, but the whole thing felt like it was floating. Damper looks like it may be shot as there's little or no resistance against the steering wheel.

I can hear old Dave saying, "It's about damn time."

Next up: e-brake adjustments; thorough steering/front-end check (probably not by me); 4WD transfer case (add oil)

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A bit of polish

I said I wouldn't mess with cosmetic stuff until later, but I couldn't help cleaning up the air cleaner cover. I read a ton of posts about how to polish chrome - what to use, what not to use. I settled on some steel wool (0000), PB blaser, Naval Jelly for the nastier parts, then BlueMagic polish. I think the differential covers are too far gone at this point, but I'll give it a try.

Before:
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After:
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Brake Job

Turned down the drums. Replaced the shoes which were cracked and crumbling. There was about 4 coats of paint on the break parts - looks like they might have been original part - probably should have replaced those. The drums were in pretty bad shape. I took a grinder to it and then repainted - red of course. Also shortened the e-brake cable and got it tightened up again.

The brakes still felt very soft. They worked, but probably won't do squat in a panic situation. Need to look into proper bleeding, etc. Also just noticed a minor kink one of the brake lines.

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Dual Rancho Stabilizers

I wasn't too sure about going to a dual stabilizer setup, but the single I removed was massive. The dual setup didn't go in easy. Wasn't enough clearance between the tie rod bracket and the diff cover for a typical setup, so had to flip the bracket to the front of the tie rod. Also found out that the tie rod is not stock (bigger), so I had to use the existing U-bolts instead of the ones that came with the kit. I don't love how it looks, but it seems to work well.

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Like the other guys said, look on craigslist for a sm465/muncie 4 speed (3 speed with the granny low.) I picked up a whole 1986 drive train (sm465 with a np205 transfercase, and a 350 sbc) for 400 bucks. There's tons of them out there for cheap. I pulled apart the sm465 to make sure everything was in okay shape, and everything was mechanically perfect.
 

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