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6l90 converter and cooling mods. Who's done what?

shady

shady

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I'm sure there's a thread on this, if so, please feel free to link it and save space/time here lol

What I have going on is ....

My uncle is buying a buddies 2016 2500HD that mysteriously lost oil pressure and started knocking.
There's a new crate engine sitting there for it.

I'm putting it in. The truck has 107,000 and drove fine.
I told my uncle the converter likes to shell and take the trans out on these and we should get a new, upgraded one.
Circle D has one designed for that actually.
Should we just go for that one? Is there a better one to look at?

I already plan to do the cooler bypass delete.
And since he plans to tow a lot, I mentioned we should change the cooler too but can do it down the road.

So what's the best delete option?
And what coolers have you guys used in these?
Is there one that's better, but is a near bolt in?

I just figured that fact that we're going to have it right there in our hands, means that it is DEFINITELY going to fail and kill the transmission if we don't change it now lol.
 
Use a converter with a billet cover and improved clutch design and definitely use an aftermarket thermostatic bypass valve. If you are going to add a cooler, run the factory radiator cooler but tap into the return line and use the largest stacked plate design cooler you can mount in the grille area running back to the trans.
 
We're going to go with the Circle D replacement one with the billet back plate I guess, and do the bypass for sure. Think he's ordering the converter today.

I'm actually not sure the 2500hd with the max tow package (6l90, 4.10 gears) has the bypass.

Mine never goes above about 16,0-170 even towing in 90* weather, and this one with the same package and gear ratio has stayed at 130-140 for the 40 miles we drove it. :dunno:

We talked about a cooler, but that's down the line a little. He'll be towing a dump trailer here and there. But it's all short haul stuff and it's Iowa lol.
He should be alright for a while.


Also, to tune out the lockup slip.....

HP tuners? Need something reloadable so I can do a few vehicles.
I have 2 myself to do, plus his.
 
HPT licenses the vehicle and not the file so you have to buy licenses for each vehicle.

EFI Live licenses the file is my understanding so you can load it to multiple vehicles. But that knowledge is about 12yrs old at this point.
 
Greg Ducato said:
Use a converter with a billet cover and improved clutch design and definitely use an aftermarket thermostatic bypass valve. If you are going to add a cooler, run the factory radiator cooler but tap into the return line and use the largest stacked plate design cooler you can mount in the grille area running back to the trans.
Click to expand...
Is it true the 1500 and 2500 use the same torque converter, but they last way longer in the 2500 due to how the slip/lock is tuned?
 
The 6L90E converter uses a heavier duty impeller bearing, a flanged drive hub instead of a butt welded design , a clutch damper that is "softer" and a lower stall speed than the later style 6L80E.
 
So in ordering, they ask about stall speed, and it's 1800-2000, or a 2400-2600.
He'd want the 1800-2000 for a bone stock truck right?
 
I would go closer to a 2400, the extra bit of stall wakes these up. I ran a 2200 on a stock Gen3 and it was great.
 
It's going to just be his daily, and pull a dump trailer here and there.
I'd guess the extra stall would help with the trailer.
 
I’d bump the stall a bit. If it was a diesel I’d say go lower but the gasser go higher.
 
I don't believe I have to worry about the bypass chit.

This is where the lines hook to the transIMG_20250829_171934336_HDR.jpg

The lines go from there, to the radiator, and this stacked plate cooler behind a big hole in the bumperIMG_20250829_132122402_HDR.jpgIMG_20250829_132118673_HDR.jpgIMG_20250829_204110292.jpg

Doesn't have the big block deal the bypass is in.
 
shady said:
So in ordering, they ask about stall speed, and it's 1800-2000, or a 2400-2600.
He'd want the 1800-2000 for a bone stock truck right?
Click to expand...
Personally, I don't like higher stall on a work truck. Low gears is better. You haven't mentioned which engine and what gears are in this truck, so there isn't really enough information (unless they all come with 6.0 and 4.10). Regardless, a 4.03 1st gear should get the trailer off the line.
 
Yes it's a 6.0. not many have the 4.10 gears that I found.
I searched a long time to find mine.

Circle D says it's a custom item and 6-8 week lead time. So we're back to finding a converter.
 
So, if not waiting for the circle D, we're looking at some remanufactured and upgraded ones.
And even putting in that it's a gas truck, we keep coming up with only 2 options.
A 1400-1600 stall.....? Is that too low? Sounds like a diesel one to me, :dunno:
And the 2100-2200.

Would the 14-16 one be fine?
 
shady said:
So, if not waiting for the circle D, we're looking at some remanufactured and upgraded ones.
And even putting in that it's a gas truck, we keep coming up with only 2 options.
A 1400-1600 stall.....? Is that too low? Sounds like a diesel one to me, :dunno:
And the 2100-2200.

Would the 14-16 one be fine?
Click to expand...
Diesel is more like 1100-1200
 
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