CK5
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70 Jimmy--Rusty Rebuild
- Thread starter toomany
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Inner cowl came in. Fits decently well. Small gap on the bottom on top of the A-pillars, be easy enough to close that up.
Going to try getting the top down from the ceiling tomorrow and getting holes drilled for spot welds.
Going to try getting the top down from the ceiling tomorrow and getting holes drilled for spot welds.
Had a friend come over to help get the top down from the ceiling and on to the truck. Looks like it will line up correctly. Couldn't slide it all the way forward because I have some clamps on the header.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Looking good. Might wanna test fit the doors as well since it’s not braced. I remember a horror story of one that got painted and then realized the doors didn’t fit right.
Once I get a few tack welds in, I'll test the doors/top/windshield all at one time.
I plan to fully assemble everything, plumb, wire, etc before pulling apart for paint. Hope I'll have the least issues doing it this way.
The A-pillars are designed to go on before the rocker boxes. They have 4 bolt holes at the bottom. Two sit in front of the box and two that come in from the inside. The OE and aftermarket pillars have nuts welded on the rear two.
Being that my boxes are already on, I had no real easy way to get bolts in there. Decided to cut them off and build a plate with bolts that I could fish through the holes. Took some work, but I got them in there with the help of a magnet on a stick and some wire.
Up next was test fitting the doors.
Passenger side fits really well. Nice gap at the B-pillar and along the windshield frame.
Driver's side, was a little tighter at the B-pillar and the gap at the windshield frame was a little looser than the other side. Fairly positive that it was that way with the factory parts as well. Think I can get away with slotting the hinges a little more to shift the door forward some. Interestingly, my door gap is actually bigger on this side vs. the passenger side. Almost like the door is longer. Will play around shimming the body mounts before I do anything drastic.
Set the windshield in. It broke when removing it, the tape is to help keep its shape. I'll have to dig that gasket out, but it seems like it fits. Little tight on the top of the driver's corner.
Once I was happy with how everything was fitting, I put a few spot welds in. Enough that I could pull the clamps off, but few enough that it wouldn't be too hard to make changes if I needed to.
I don't really remember how the top fit along the windshield header. It's been a few years since I removed it. I also have zero intention on running the hard top. That being said, it lined up with the mounting holes on the inside and I think this is how it's supposed to look on the outside. Has a nice even spacing to the front edge and the gap for the weather stripping looks correct.
Can see the spot where the windshield gets close. I think I can pull that up with a clamp when I go to weld it. Also note how part of the A-pillar hangs below that flange. No matter what I did it was always off at some place. Being all aftermarket parts now, I was expecting to have to trim some and am not surprised.
Being that my boxes are already on, I had no real easy way to get bolts in there. Decided to cut them off and build a plate with bolts that I could fish through the holes. Took some work, but I got them in there with the help of a magnet on a stick and some wire.
Up next was test fitting the doors.
Passenger side fits really well. Nice gap at the B-pillar and along the windshield frame.
Driver's side, was a little tighter at the B-pillar and the gap at the windshield frame was a little looser than the other side. Fairly positive that it was that way with the factory parts as well. Think I can get away with slotting the hinges a little more to shift the door forward some. Interestingly, my door gap is actually bigger on this side vs. the passenger side. Almost like the door is longer. Will play around shimming the body mounts before I do anything drastic.
Set the windshield in. It broke when removing it, the tape is to help keep its shape. I'll have to dig that gasket out, but it seems like it fits. Little tight on the top of the driver's corner.
Once I was happy with how everything was fitting, I put a few spot welds in. Enough that I could pull the clamps off, but few enough that it wouldn't be too hard to make changes if I needed to.
I don't really remember how the top fit along the windshield header. It's been a few years since I removed it. I also have zero intention on running the hard top. That being said, it lined up with the mounting holes on the inside and I think this is how it's supposed to look on the outside. Has a nice even spacing to the front edge and the gap for the weather stripping looks correct.
Can see the spot where the windshield gets close. I think I can pull that up with a clamp when I go to weld it. Also note how part of the A-pillar hangs below that flange. No matter what I did it was always off at some place. Being all aftermarket parts now, I was expecting to have to trim some and am not surprised.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
curious what you mean by “tight” in spots in the windshield? Once the add the rubber gasket, it’ll take up probably 1/4” of space (maybe measure the old gasket thickness). I only mention it because mine must have a spot that is just a hair too tight because I can’t get the gasket to seat well. It’s the top corner on passenger side and I repaired the bottom of passenger side so I suspect the metal lip I replaced on the bottom is just a hair too big and forcing the window upward just a bit.
That is awesome! I didn't know that the whole a-pillars were available. It's amazing what is available for these trucks now, compared to when I first restored mine in the 90's.
The flange itself seems like it's good, its the body line above it that looks like it will crowd the glass. Being that the glass is already broken, I can't screw it up too much more, I'll try installing it before going any further.
I think you can get all the parts for the body now. When I started this, parts of the cowl and the A-pillars weren't available. There are a few builds out there using 100% new metal. Going that route wouldn't be bad as I think the areas that don't line up well on the factory stuff, would line up OK with the aftermarket parts.
Put the windshield in with a gasket. Good thing I did, the top/bottom fit was geat. The side/side was a little off.
Hard to see, but it's about 1 1/2" too wide. Solution was to cut the welds on the lower cowl (only on the A-pillars) and use some ratchet straps to pull the sides in. Leaving the header untouched and the lowers at the floor bolted.
Much better overall fit and I'm confident enough to finish welding the pieces in and moving forward now.
Hard to see, but it's about 1 1/2" too wide. Solution was to cut the welds on the lower cowl (only on the A-pillars) and use some ratchet straps to pull the sides in. Leaving the header untouched and the lowers at the floor bolted.
Much better overall fit and I'm confident enough to finish welding the pieces in and moving forward now.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Interesting that it did that, wouldn’t have expected that problem, but good to find it now.
I didn't think it would either. The width at the floor measures the same as before. I kept that piece intact just so I could measure from it. The top is pretty much a fixed dimension once you get the header on.
Glad I found the problem now though and not after it was painted. I'm going to put a few more welds on, fit the drivers door better and hang the front sheet metal before final welding.
Messed with the driver's door and hung the fenders this afternoon.
Slotted the holes a little more in the hinges and was able to get the door a little further forward. Fits really well and opens/closes nicely.
Fenders fit well enough that I'll be able to get decent gaps. Pulled them back off, finished welding the A-pillars in. Next I popped out the windshield to finish the seem and header. Sill have a spot on the floor on the drivers side to address, but for the most part they are in.
Slotted the holes a little more in the hinges and was able to get the door a little further forward. Fits really well and opens/closes nicely.
Fenders fit well enough that I'll be able to get decent gaps. Pulled them back off, finished welding the A-pillars in. Next I popped out the windshield to finish the seem and header. Sill have a spot on the floor on the drivers side to address, but for the most part they are in.
After putting on the first cowl close to a year a half ago, I'm close to getting the second one welded on.
Initially I planned on saving the first one. After looking at it I realized it'd probably be pretty mangled by the time I got it off and cleaned up. So I threw more money at it and bought another one.
This one fit about like the first. Little bit tighter on the sides over the fresh air vents. Had to use some ratchet straps to pull it down the first few times I had it on. It seems to have stretched some because it goes on fairly easy now.
Currently waiting for my zinc primer to dry on the bare metal on the inner cowl. Once that's done, I'll hit it with some Chasis Saver paint then seam sealer. Some weld through primer on the spot weld holes and it'll be good to go.
Initially I planned on saving the first one. After looking at it I realized it'd probably be pretty mangled by the time I got it off and cleaned up. So I threw more money at it and bought another one.
This one fit about like the first. Little bit tighter on the sides over the fresh air vents. Had to use some ratchet straps to pull it down the first few times I had it on. It seems to have stretched some because it goes on fairly easy now.
Currently waiting for my zinc primer to dry on the bare metal on the inner cowl. Once that's done, I'll hit it with some Chasis Saver paint then seam sealer. Some weld through primer on the spot weld holes and it'll be good to go.
Dressed the welds on the windshield header. Figured while I had the grinder out and was going to be painting and seam sealing I'd knock that out too.
Sprayed some more zinc before brushing on some Chasis Saver.
Then did the cowl area. Just kind of eyeballed the line along the top.
I like using that paint in areas where water might get into and sit. Once these areas are dry I'll hit them with the seam sealer. Top of the windshield will get scuffed and primed when the body gets painted.
Sprayed some more zinc before brushing on some Chasis Saver.
Then did the cowl area. Just kind of eyeballed the line along the top.
I like using that paint in areas where water might get into and sit. Once these areas are dry I'll hit them with the seam sealer. Top of the windshield will get scuffed and primed when the body gets painted.
Squirted some sealer on there tonight. Decided against doing the windshield header for now. I'll hit that after primer, will use the black two-part stuff for that as well as the other areas.
3M brand and the correct gun for it. A regular caulking gun would also work. This one has a higher leverage ratio for pushing the thick stuff.
Not a huge fan of the beige, but it'll be covered up where no one can see it. Shot it on there and worked it into the seams with a gloved finger. Wasn't terribly concerned with keeping it nice in this hidden area, after full coverage.
Areas that will be visible will get tape lines and 2 part black sealer. That will be after primer goes on.
I learned on the last cowl install that the flange at the front of the firewall was hard to get into. Both during welding and after to clean up. You'll notice that there is no primer or weld prep in that area. This time I'm going to use panel bond adhesive in the hard to access spots. Could probably use that for the whole thing if I wanted actually.
3M brand and the correct gun for it. A regular caulking gun would also work. This one has a higher leverage ratio for pushing the thick stuff.
Not a huge fan of the beige, but it'll be covered up where no one can see it. Shot it on there and worked it into the seams with a gloved finger. Wasn't terribly concerned with keeping it nice in this hidden area, after full coverage.
Areas that will be visible will get tape lines and 2 part black sealer. That will be after primer goes on.
I learned on the last cowl install that the flange at the front of the firewall was hard to get into. Both during welding and after to clean up. You'll notice that there is no primer or weld prep in that area. This time I'm going to use panel bond adhesive in the hard to access spots. Could probably use that for the whole thing if I wanted actually.
I've used the Fast n Firm for decades, it's very similar to what the factory uses in many applications.
I've used it before as well. Mainly on floor pan replacements. The tube says it doesn't play well with self etch primer. Not sure how much bare metal I'll end up with to need a self etch coat.
I've got the gun for the two part system so it's no big deal to use that later on. I know that stuff works well with pain systems.
Upper cowl is on. Need to go back and clean up the welds yet and trim the edges near the door where the shapes differ.
