70 Jimmy--Rusty Rebuild

[toomany]

With my trip with the other truck out of the way and most everything done on it that I need/want to do, it's time to get going on this again.


Ground down the welds on the cowl panel. Trimmed the excess metal around the edges as well.




In the entire time I was fitting the A-pillars/cowl/windshield header I never once tried putting the upper cowl trim back on.

This is literally setting it on there and screwing the bolts in. It was at this time I discovered that there isn't a nut welded in on the passenger side for the front bolt... either way I'm happy with the fit and calling that a win.








Popped the fenders on, again not paying attention to alignment. Just making sure they land where they need to.




Up next will be fitting rockers.

 

[bp71k5]

With my trip with the other truck out of the way and most everything done on it that I need/want to do, it's time to get going on this again.


Ground down the welds on the cowl panel. Trimmed the excess metal around the edges as well.

View attachment 391561


In the entire time I was fitting the A-pillars/cowl/windshield header I never once tried putting the upper cowl trim back on.

This is literally setting it on there and screwing the bolts in. It was at this time I discovered that there isn't a nut welded in on the passenger side for the front bolt... either way I'm happy with the fit and calling that a win.

View attachment 391562

View attachment 391563

View attachment 391564


Popped the fenders on, again not paying attention to alignment. Just making sure they land where they need to.

View attachment 391566


Up next will be fitting rockers.

Uh, someone was paying attention to alignment cause everything looks like it’s lining up.

 

[toomany]

Spent some time working on the rockers the last couple of weeks.

I switched phones over the course of this and lost some of the in progress pictures though.

When I originally got the truck, there was some replacement sheet metal included. Outer rockers were some of that. Not knowing the quality of them (they seemed decent) and knowing that there are some that are better than others out there I decided to pick up another pair. They aren't that much and it might be beneficial to have an extra set on hand. I purchased a new set from GmcPauls, their "premium" ones. When they showed up, they were exactly the same as the ones I already had. Different brand but same part number. Same gauge metal even.

Initially I started with the driver's side, that was giving me some problems so I moved over to the passenger side. It pretty much fell right into place. If anything, the joint at the bedside might need a little help. But for now it's good enough to move on.









The driver's side was a little more challenging. I could get a good fit until I closed the door. It would get pinched and the door would scrape. The rear of the floor (near the B-pillar) was too high. Spent a few days thinking on how to deal with it. I didn't really want to cut into the floor and lower it. My solution was to cut the rocker in half and use the outer skin, putting it where it wanted to be and connecting the gap to the floor later.




This is the test fit of the skin. I used the first one that I got with the truck as I had already made some cuts on it when I tried fitting them before replacing the A-pillars. I used the new set I bought for both sides. The above picture is the new one. For the one that got welded, the horizontal section is wider. I have both cut off sections to use for filling the gap and the flange for the weather stripping.

 

[toomany]

Got a little bit of the gap filled on the driver's side.

Working on getting it tacked in.




That little bit on the right is where the door would hit when the rocker was slipped over. It's close about midway through the opening, but only hit there.




It's about halfway welded in at this point. Once it's all in I'll clean up the welds before putting the flange for the weather stripping in.

 

[toomany]

Big gap is done and finished out. Will need a skim coat of filler, but it's good enough to move on. Next is closing off the ends and adding the flange for the weatherstrip.

 

[toomany]

Worked on getting the ends closed up.

Doesn't quite look like it, but it's tight against the A-pillar. Not that concerned with the lines not matching up here. Being inside the door and all. Once it gets seam sealer on it, won't be as noticeable either.






Other side I lined them up with each other.





Tossed the door back on quick to check clearances. Nothing hits and the weather strip flange is sitting nicely just inside the door. I'll connect the two ends next time I'm out there.

 

[bp71k5]

Worked on getting the ends closed up.

Doesn't quite look like it, but it's tight against the A-pillar. Not that concerned with the lines not matching up here. Being inside the door and all. Once it gets seam sealer on it, won't be as noticeable either.

View attachment 395769

View attachment 395768


Other side I lined them up with each other.

View attachment 395770

View attachment 395771

Tossed the door back on quick to check clearances. Nothing hits and the weather strip flange is sitting nicely just inside the door. I'll connect the two ends next time I'm out there.

View attachment 395772

Nice job on that. I like that method of fixing the rocker misalignment than the pie pie shape cutting method.

 

[toomany]

Nice job on that. I like that method of fixing the rocker misalignment than the pie pie shape cutting method.

Thanks!

I'm sure the outer rockers provide some structure, but for the most part they are cosmetic. Put the outer skin where it wants to be and fill in the gaps. Would have liked it if it had just gone right on. This method turned out alright though.

 

[flatland]

Well, I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread and look forward to updates!

Thank you for documenting this so well. I have learned a lot reading this, and I'm sure others have as well.

 

[toomany]

Got the rocker all finished for now. Had to trim the last piece down a little to compensate for the floor being a touch high.

What was left of the rocker that needed to go on. Basically cut it where it bends around.




Welded in. Had to go slower than usual because it was so thin and didn't want to warp it.




Cleaned up. Plan on putting some seam sealer along the inner edge on both driver's and passenger side...that'll be after primer though.






That's it for the most part on sheet metal replacement for the tub. There are a few areas that need a little attention yet, but I'll get to those later.

Moving to the firewall next. Going to put some filler panels in to smooth it out. The area in the transmission tunnel has some spots that need work yet too.

I do plan on taking advantage of some black Friday sales and picking up a few parts for later in the build.

 

[toomany]

Well, I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread and look forward to updates!

Thank you for documenting this so well. I have learned a lot reading this, and I'm sure others have as well.

Thanks!

Nothing on these is that complicated. Breaking each area into its own and only focusing on that makes it easier I found.

The hardest thing with it has been getting consistent time to work on it. Too much time away and it's easy to loose motivation, then it just sits and collects dust.

 

[toomany]

Figured before I got too far along, I'd test fit the dash back in. I don't/didn't forsee any problems, but with how I had to move the A-pillars in to get a good fit of the windshield, it was probably a good idea.

Dropped into place without much hassle. It's been 3 (4?) years since I've taken it out. Seems like it was a tight fit then...had to wiggle it out.






The front flange will need a little work. Might see if I can get away from the weld up there and figure out some kind of bolt in solution. I'd like to make it removable.

 

[toomany]

Taking a small break from the body work, only so I don't create more work down the road for myself.

Started by pulling the core support.




With the tub sheet metal mostly done except for the firewall and shifter holes, I wanted to fit the motor and transmission/t-case to check for clearance. Way back in the early pages of this I had fit an SBC/NV4500/208. Using a Diy4x4 engine crossmember and clocking ring. I originally moved the engine forward 1.5" (I think...somewhere around there). Reasoning was to keep the shifter close to the same place as the factory Sm420.

I have made the decision to go LS based power in this. Whether that be 5.3, 5.7, 6.0 or 6.2 is still to be determined. I've got a complete 5.3 as well as a complete 2000 SS Camaro I bought to use as a donor vehicle...so that Ls1 might end up in this.

I've also picked up an Nv3500, which was to goal all along. I don't need the strength of the 4500 and the lighter one should drive better.

Mock up block is an Ls1 short block I picked up about a year ago. Crank is wasted in it.





Ls/3500 next to the Sbc/4500. The shifters fall within 1/2" of each other. I have never driven either of these...both were "pulled from running trucks". If one is bad I should be able to swap to the other with little issue.




Being I already had Kurt's crossmember, I figured I'd use his Ls swap mounts as well. I used them on my 86 and liked that they put the bellhousing in the same place as the Sbc. In theory they should bolt on and it'll drop right in.




Setting it in resulted in some disappointment.






Close. Was hitting the cross tube and they were too close together. Pulling the cross tube let it drop low enough to get the passenger side bolt in, still too close together for both to go in. Measuring from the frame to the blocks deck, I had 4" on the passenger side and 3.5" on the driver's.




Solution was to pull the mount to frame bolts out and slide the mount over. This got me within 1/4" on my side/side measurements.








With the heads on there is plenty of room. I'm waiting on my headers to check frame and firewall clearance.






Before I pull everything back out I'll put a crossmember in for the transmission (probably a later "W" style), close up and re-drill the holes in the motor mount.

I've got some firewall filler panels coming to close up all the holes. While I'm doing those I'll take care of the seam at the floor/toe board then cut a hole for the shifters.

 

[6872xtc]

Cool to watch all of your work!
FYI, we mocked up a 700R4 with 241, and the floor didn't clear the top of the T case. I believe that we raised it 1.5" and trimmed the separation tabs off of the top of the case. Hopefully you don't have too many issues with the T-case since you mocked it up already.

 

[toomany]

Cool to watch all of your work!
FYI, we mocked up a 700R4 with 241, and the floor didn't clear the top of the T case. I believe that we raised it 1.5" and trimmed the separation tabs off of the top of the case. Hopefully you don't have too many issues with the T-case since you mocked it up already.

Right now the 208 is sitting on the floor jack with it pushed all the way into the floor. Once the crossmember is in I'll know better if it needs more clearance. I am running a 1" body lift as well so hopefully I won't have to do much.

 

[toomany]

Put the crossmember in. Had to get a new transmission mount as I couldn't find the one I had used before.





Finished up the motor mount next. Had to trim the AC boss on the block.






Moved on to the transmission tunnel. Was hoping I could get away with keeping some of the floor under the high hump...more room for insulation/sound deadening. Well the wasn't going to work, transmission wanted to be in that space.





@6872xtc is this where you had to trim? The case hits the floor. Going back to the first picture, you can see the crossmember isn't tight to the frame because of this.




With the cover back on, shifter is close to the factory hole.




I'm about out of things to do until some parts show up. Once the headers are here I can check clearances then pull everything out and continue on with bodywork.

 

[6872xtc]

We went ahead and raised the tunnel, even brought the rear of the bolt in tunnel up by cutting a section out, then adding into the sides of the floor. We were trying to make sure the there was plenty of room.

 

[toomany]

We went ahead and raised the tunnel, even brought the rear of the bolt in tunnel up by cutting a section out, then adding into the sides of the floor. We were trying to make sure the there was plenty of room.

That may be the route I go. Raising it up an inch or so wouldn't be hard and would give plenty of clearance. And, if I ever swap to the NV4500 it'll fit a little better.

 

[6872xtc]

That may be the route I go. Raising it up an inch or so wouldn't be hard and would give plenty of clearance. And, if I ever swap to the NV4500 it'll fit a little better.

It was not really what my son wanted to do, since he had been learning about welding sheet metal on this truck and that took some time and patience with all of the shapes there. However, we wanted to make it decent. And he doesn't have a body lift.
You shouldn't have much of a problem tackling it after what you have already done! Not that you want to have another thing on the list.

 

[toomany]

Headers came in earlier this week.

Having had success with SpeedEngineering long tubes on my 86, I went with them for this one as well. Most every company lists headers as fitting 67-87. They listed these as not fitting 4wd, they fit just fine on the other truck so I took a gamble. I did deviate a little, got the 1 7/8 vs the 1 3/4. I'm using the Ls1 in my SS as a baseline motor for this. Those were conservatively rated at 320hp (many dyno well above that) and odds are I'll put a cam in and possibly some heads. The F-body guys see no downfall from the larger headers.

Driver's side dropped right in with no issues.








Passenger side was a little different. I was expecting a little clearance problems, but this was worse than I anticipated.






Miles away. Hits the starter pocket on the bellhousing and the frame. The SBC starters are larger than the LS stuff so I knew I could trim some there if I had to. Put one in there and scribed a line around the outside.




Did my best Van Gogh and trimmed the ear off.




Marked the frame and trimmed some of that as well.




That was enough to get it to drop in (from the top even!).






One thing I'm not happy with is the symmetry of them. Seems like the passenger side sticks out way further than needed.




Other than that, they fit decent. Shackle clearance on the passenger side could be a bit better, but it clears with room for movement.






The only other variable I have with motor fitment is the oil pan. Shouldn't be a big deal as the crossmember comes apart and I need to rework it anyway. Whether I use a truck pan or F-body pan is to be determined.

I believe I can pull the assembly out and get on with the firewall and floor now.