One of the reasons I'm taking all the time to trial fit everything is so I don't run into many problems during final assembly. I'd rather modify the floor now than after I've got paint on it.
CK5
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70 Jimmy--Rusty Rebuild
- Thread starter toomany
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One of the reasons I'm taking all the time to trial fit everything is so I don't run into many problems during final assembly. I'd rather modify the floor now than after I've got paint on it.
After thinking on it for a few weeks...I'd rather not raise the floor if I don't have to. Only needing 1/2" or so, I could probably find it elsewhere.
Took the crossmember and cut out the center of it.
And welded in a dropped section. Overall drop was 5/8" from factory.
I now have clearance enough to fit my hand up around the case. Yes I realize I could have gotten here by spacing the crossmember down, and this is effectively doing that. I haven't put a driveshaft in yet, but I don't forsee any problems with the front one. The rear, the spring perches aren't fully welded yet, so the pinion angle can change easily.
With that out of the way, on to the firewall. Still debating on how I want to go about this.
I could trim out the factory firewall where it is raised and fully weld them in. This would give a nicer finish along the edges. Or I could drill a few holes and spot weld them from the inside. The edges wouldn't be flush and would either get seam sealer or body filler. In either case, the top edge is getting capped as well to close off the wiring channel.
I'm leaning towards spot welding them in. It's less work and keeps them only cosmetic vs. making them structural. I'll need to get a new welding helmet before any of this takes place as mine died when I was working on the crossmember...so I have a little while to think about it.
Took the crossmember and cut out the center of it.
And welded in a dropped section. Overall drop was 5/8" from factory.
I now have clearance enough to fit my hand up around the case. Yes I realize I could have gotten here by spacing the crossmember down, and this is effectively doing that. I haven't put a driveshaft in yet, but I don't forsee any problems with the front one. The rear, the spring perches aren't fully welded yet, so the pinion angle can change easily.
With that out of the way, on to the firewall. Still debating on how I want to go about this.
I could trim out the factory firewall where it is raised and fully weld them in. This would give a nicer finish along the edges. Or I could drill a few holes and spot weld them from the inside. The edges wouldn't be flush and would either get seam sealer or body filler. In either case, the top edge is getting capped as well to close off the wiring channel.
I'm leaning towards spot welding them in. It's less work and keeps them only cosmetic vs. making them structural. I'll need to get a new welding helmet before any of this takes place as mine died when I was working on the crossmember...so I have a little while to think about it.
Small update.
Pulled motor/transmission back out.
Started on the firewall with closing in the blower motor hole. Filler panels came with this patch.
99% of this will get closed off with the next panel and the strip along the top. I'll dress the little bit of weld that I need to, the rest can stay.
Going to try getting out there again tomorrow night to work on the main areas.
Pulled motor/transmission back out.
Started on the firewall with closing in the blower motor hole. Filler panels came with this patch.
99% of this will get closed off with the next panel and the strip along the top. I'll dress the little bit of weld that I need to, the rest can stay.
Going to try getting out there again tomorrow night to work on the main areas.
Decided to do it the "correct" way and cut out the raised area.
Got a little big on the bottom and center compared to the new piece. The raised parts extended that far though.
Some timing and cleaning of the edges.
Where I left off for tonight. Most of the bottom and center edge I'm able to bend into a nice shape to get everything lined up. Only going to need a couple small pieces to fill the gaps.
Got a little big on the bottom and center compared to the new piece. The raised parts extended that far though.
Some timing and cleaning of the edges.
Where I left off for tonight. Most of the bottom and center edge I'm able to bend into a nice shape to get everything lined up. Only going to need a couple small pieces to fill the gaps.
This little guy took me way longer than I'd like to admit.
He goes in the top right corner.
I continued the straight edge on the panel down on the right. The new piece is left long on the firewall curve.
Welded in and ground down for the most part. I intend to make a center piece to connect the left and right panels, so I didn't finish right to the edge. Used a flap wheel to finish down to the corner seam. Inside the "dog house" there are a few areas that might need few spots of spot putty the rest will probably cover with filler primer.
He goes in the top right corner.
I continued the straight edge on the panel down on the right. The new piece is left long on the firewall curve.
Welded in and ground down for the most part. I intend to make a center piece to connect the left and right panels, so I didn't finish right to the edge. Used a flap wheel to finish down to the corner seam. Inside the "dog house" there are a few areas that might need few spots of spot putty the rest will probably cover with filler primer.
Finished off the passenger side as much as I could.
The lower left side still needs done as well as some of the inside. Going to wait till I get the closing strip on the top before doing those areas though. As it is now, I can move the panel in/out on that edge, getting the top on will lock down where it needs to be.
Moving on to the driver's side. Wanted to preserve the inner structure that the factory put in there. There are some decent loads going through this side with the brake/clutch pedal.
Unlike the passenger side, the driver's sort of needs to go in a specific spot. Best way I could think to line it up was to use the brake booster holes as everything else would be cut away send I know for a fact I'm keeping these holes. Not a big fan of how the bolts get into the bead roll.
To keep the inner bracing some spot welds need to be cut. I don't like spot weld cutters, you end up with extra holes (for the pilot bit), they usually walk around and don't get all the weld anyway. Even the good ones that I bought are generally trash, only use them when I absolutely have to. Instead I choose to grind down the metal on the panel being removed. Do it right and you don't even touch the one beneath it.
Front side of the bracing. I left the fuse box hole, not sure where I'm going to run wires yet, figured it'd be wise to keep it.
From the inside. That gap on the right closes up real well when the panel is pressed back. Very little trimming will be needed to get a good fit. From this angle, can see why I couldn't locate off of the steering column hole once I cut the outer skin off.
The lower left side still needs done as well as some of the inside. Going to wait till I get the closing strip on the top before doing those areas though. As it is now, I can move the panel in/out on that edge, getting the top on will lock down where it needs to be.
Moving on to the driver's side. Wanted to preserve the inner structure that the factory put in there. There are some decent loads going through this side with the brake/clutch pedal.
Unlike the passenger side, the driver's sort of needs to go in a specific spot. Best way I could think to line it up was to use the brake booster holes as everything else would be cut away send I know for a fact I'm keeping these holes. Not a big fan of how the bolts get into the bead roll.
To keep the inner bracing some spot welds need to be cut. I don't like spot weld cutters, you end up with extra holes (for the pilot bit), they usually walk around and don't get all the weld anyway. Even the good ones that I bought are generally trash, only use them when I absolutely have to. Instead I choose to grind down the metal on the panel being removed. Do it right and you don't even touch the one beneath it.
Front side of the bracing. I left the fuse box hole, not sure where I'm going to run wires yet, figured it'd be wise to keep it.
From the inside. That gap on the right closes up real well when the panel is pressed back. Very little trimming will be needed to get a good fit. From this angle, can see why I couldn't locate off of the steering column hole once I cut the outer skin off.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
For the spot welds, you might try to use a larger drill bit so it cuts most of the way through the first layer before it really touches the inner layer and then you can pry up the joint to break it away. This way the locations are kinda pre-marked with the drill when you go back to weld it up.
Got the driver's side attached.
Each side is slightly different. Guessing that's to be expected though. You really notice the differences once you do something like this.
Each side is slightly different. Guessing that's to be expected though. You really notice the differences once you do something like this.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
You won’t notice once the front clip is on. Nice job.
I'm not that concerned with it. Just thought it was odd that they were that different side to side.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
What’s the plan for the mounting hole that lines up on the edge where it’s folded?
There is a bracket that goes there, between the booster and firewall, that locates the clutch master cylinder. It seems to fit alright, even being on the edge. I haven't fully tightened it down yet though.
Progress might slow down more than usual for a week or two. Yesterday at work I crushed the end of my ring finger on my left hand. Had it looked at this morning and it's fractured from the tip back towards the first knuckle. Being where it's at and the type of injury, there isn't much to be done with it other than keeping it wrapped up and in a splint. Kind of hard to get my hand into a welding glove not to mention keeping grinding dust out of the gauze.
Was cleared to start working without the splint on my finger, so I took that as I'm good to go to get back on this.
Finished welding in the center and most of the lower edge.
Started grinding it down. Realized I'm going to have to add another bead or two to get a nice transition. It's not much, but more than I'd like to finish with filler.
I'm thinking that once this is done, I'll move it over to the lift so I can take the body off again. Will be much easier to finish the last bits I need to do with the frame being out of the way.
Finished welding in the center and most of the lower edge.
Started grinding it down. Realized I'm going to have to add another bead or two to get a nice transition. It's not much, but more than I'd like to finish with filler.
I'm thinking that once this is done, I'll move it over to the lift so I can take the body off again. Will be much easier to finish the last bits I need to do with the frame being out of the way.
Not much progress on the truck this weekend.
Did put the wheels/tires on it so I could roll it around a little bit. Doing some work on the ceiling and it was easier to move the truck than to work around it.
Did put the wheels/tires on it so I could roll it around a little bit. Doing some work on the ceiling and it was easier to move the truck than to work around it.
The work on the ceiling is done now. Put a couple of fans up and finished out the lights. While I was up there, I ran another circuit for a cord reel and and outlet for future door openers.
One of the other things I did was add an outlet for the welder on the side of the hoist. Previously only had the one under the loft. Used some SO cord as an extension. While that worked, I always had to run it under or through the Jimmy to get the welder on the driver's side or use it under the hoist.
Pushed it outside so I could finish stapling the wires from last time I put a few lights up.
Tomorrow I plan on finishing the driver's side firewall and hopefully start on the closing strip along the top.
One of the other things I did was add an outlet for the welder on the side of the hoist. Previously only had the one under the loft. Used some SO cord as an extension. While that worked, I always had to run it under or through the Jimmy to get the welder on the driver's side or use it under the hoist.
Pushed it outside so I could finish stapling the wires from last time I put a few lights up.
Tomorrow I plan on finishing the driver's side firewall and hopefully start on the closing strip along the top.
Any plans to paint the ceilings or walls? You'd be amazed at how much more light you get.
I thought about it when I first put the building up (for the ceiling) and again when I insulated and put the osb on the walls. Thought about doing metal as well.
At this point I'd probably need 50 gallons of paint or more to get decent coverage. The osb just soaks it up like a sponge.
The metal is nice if you can get it for a good price.
A good primer would help a fair bit, from my limited experience.
I always paint the ceiling white now, after seeing the difference in my first garage.
I always paint the ceiling white now, after seeing the difference in my first garage.
If anything, I'd do primer/paint in an airless sprayer. Do a quick masking of the fixtures and go to town.
Pulling all the stuff down to put metal up doesn't sound fun. I've got an N.O.S. early 70's Corvette billboard I wanted to put on the ceiling. Don't know if I'll ever get around to that.
Welded up the edge of the driver's side panel. Moved on to the piece between the two. Put some tape up to mark my line.
Patch to go in. It's long on the inside edge.
Was just about out of gas in the welder, will get that refilled tomorrow and be back out there again Saturday.
