70 Jimmy--Rusty Rebuild

[toomany]

B-pillar and spreader bars in.







Had every intention on having the A-pillar bars go through the dash, so out that came.




Spent a few hours getting them where they fit/looked decent. I wasn't 100% happy with the fit, but decided to keep moving forward.




Cut the dash up in an attempt to get it back in.




You'll note the lack of A-pillars here. With the way they were bent, I couldn't get them far enough forward to go through the top of the dash without moving them several inches towards the center of the truck. Having them 4" away from the side wasn't going to happen. No fault of the kit, it isn't designed that way.

With the dash back in, re-fit the bars and ended up with a better result than I had the first time.








At the point where I can pull the top off and see if it looks correct. Tape measure says it's square. Waiting on the soft top now before I go any further with it.

 

[Greg72]

Good work!

A-Pillars are a major hassle if you want them through the dash.

If you run them nice and tight to the factory A-pillar they hit the upper windshield header unless you position that bend REALLY low. That typically makes the horizontal part right next to your ears and then had to join the B-pillar hoop below the bend which also looks weird.

The other option is to scallop the upper corners of the windshield frame to create the necessary clearance for the A-pillar tube... with some luck you can sneak the bend up high where you want it without hitting the hardtop and the horizontal bar is high enough to tie-in to that node you've already got started on the B-pillar. That should also allow you to really shove that bar deep into the dash and close to the windshield.

EDIT: I suppose the 3rd option is to use an A-pillar with a shallower bend in it so that you can keep the upper part of the bar horizontal to the ground and then just let the diagonal part run non-parallel to the factory A-pillar... it will enter at a good spot in the top of the dash but will probably land on the angled part of the footwell instead of the flat part. Since this is a pre-bent kit, you'd have to find someone to bend up new A-pillar bars with a smaller angle in them.


-G

 

[toomany]

Popped the top off, I'm thinking this might be the last time the hard top is on. I like the lines/shape of it more than any of the soft tops out there, but for what I want to use the truck for, it doesn't make sense to go through the trouble of using it.




With the hard top out of the way, looking at the bars it looks to be pretty symmetrical. I'm still waiting on the soft top (going on week 4) so everything is still only tacked and a few pieces are missing yet.








To keep myself busy, started working the corner of the glove box door to clear the A-pillar tube. The kit says you'll loose the ability to fully open it. Seen a few other people clip the corner and that is the route I went.

Made some slits and bent it over until it would open.




The top edge still needs to be built up some. Ran out of wire while I was finishing the backside. I do have another door I can try again with if I'm not happy with how this comes out. The front face is close enough for a little bondo and I think it'll come out alright.

 

[toomany]

Good work!

A-Pillars are a major hassle if you want them through the dash.

If you run them nice and tight to the factory A-pillar they hit the upper windshield header unless you position that bend REALLY low. That typically makes the horizontal part right next to your ears and then had to join the B-pillar hoop below the bend which also looks weird.

The other option is to scallop the upper corners of the windshield frame to create the necessary clearance for the A-pillar tube... with some luck you can sneak the bend up high where you want it without hitting the hardtop and the horizontal bar is high enough to tie-in to that node you've already got started on the B-pillar. That should also allow you to really shove that bar deep into the dash and close to the windshield.

EDIT: I suppose the 3rd option is to use an A-pillar with a shallower bend in it so that you can keep the upper part of the bar horizontal to the ground and then just let the diagonal part run non-parallel to the factory A-pillar... it will enter at a good spot in the top of the dash but will probably land on the angled part of the footwell instead of the flat part. Since this is a pre-bent kit, you'd have to find someone to bend up new A-pillar bars with a smaller angle in them.


-G

Had I bought a bender I would have definitely gone through the dash. Probably would have done a few things differently with the layout too. Having the A-pillars where they are is one compromise I'm willing to make at this time.

 

[toomany]

Also say if it fits the hard top it will fit a soft top.

Going to quote myself here because that wasn't even close to true.

Soft top came in earlier this week. Softopper brand is what I went with (I think they are currently the only ones producing one). Got all the options they offer, tinted windows along with a rear zip in mesh window.

The aluminum plate that goes on the windshield header needed a bunch of tweaks. Started in the center and worked towards the ends, bending it a little more at each screw.

None of the holes in the bed rails are drilled so I only clamped them down for now. Once I got to the point of the cross bars it was clear that the roll bar was in the way.

Had to turn the truck around and out it came.




About 2 hours later I had it up for the most part.






It fits well and had a few tight spots yet. Don't think the rear is quite centered either. Rear most bar over the tailgate isn't in yet, waiting until I get the bed rails bolted down so I know the width it needs to be.

 

[dbcorvairracer]

Damn those tops got expensive. Wish I never sold mine. Looks like they improved them though. Could you snap some shots of how they are installing above the windshield and the supports around the door windows? As I look again I'll also be curious how they are doing the tailgate attachment now and if there were any updates there. It looks great. your build is making me want to pull mine out of the barn and get to work!

 

[toomany]

Damn those tops got expensive. Wish I never sold mine. Looks like they improved them though. Could you snap some shots of how they are installing above the windshield and the supports around the door windows? As I look again I'll also be curious how they are doing the tailgate attachment now and if there were any updates there. It looks great. your build is making me want to pull mine out of the barn and get to work!

I'll get some next time I'm out there, could be mid-week or next weekend.

Overall I'm pleased with the fit and finish of it. Fabric is nice, all the seams are stitched well. Velcro is strong and sewn in firmly. Zippers are quality YKK.

The windshield piece, I had to drill into my new windshield frame (wasn't a big fan of that). I think I've got a good idea to seal it up once it goes on for good. The top itself has a plastic lip that slips over the header and is tensioned rearward with straps at the back.

Window frames are aluminum and pin into some brackets. One on the bed rail and another on the top of the A-pillar.

I don't have a tailgate installed yet, but there is a crossbar the snaps into the rear of the two bed rails. There is some velcro sewn into the bottom of the rear window that goes around that. I'm assuming you put the tube in the window then snap it into the rails. They included extra velcro strips that can go on the gate if desired.

 

[toomany]

@dbcorvairracer here are some more pictures of the inside.

That bar on the B-pillar is attached to the window frame with a carriage bolt and big nut for easy removal. Velcro holds the top in place above it.




The black strip under the rear window is another velcro sleeve for the tailgate bar (not installed here). Window velcros in at the top and zippers at the sides.




Flaps fold around the window.




Better shot of window frames. They pin into a hole on the bedrail and a plate on the top of the A-pillar. Black pieces are velcro that the top folds around.




Windshield header. Wasn't a huge fan of drilling into this, but I've got a few ideas to seal it up. Top has a plastic strip that hooks over

The plates on the A-pillar can be seen. Only two of the 3 holes line up. This is a fault of the reproduction header panel. The hex bolt in there isn't from the kit either, the stainless Philips head they sent was too long. Will address both of those problems shortly.




After these pictures were taken I took the whole thing off and drilled the bedsides to actually bolt the rails down. Once I did that, it fit a little better and was easier to install. There are a few wrinkles that I think will works them out over time.

Later today I'm going to try refitting the roll bar. Probably be putting it up and down a bunch of times so I don't get any grinding sparks/weld spatter on it.

 

[toomany]

Spent a few hours and got most of the roll bar fit back in. Had to shorten the rear bar 3/4" and the B-pillar 1 1/2". A-pillars will need some work as both ends will need to be re-cut.






There's about 3/4" of clearance to the tops bars. The front/back bars had to be moved in a little bit to get them away from the flip bars.

 

[bp71k5]

Spent a few hours and got most of the roll bar fit back in. Had to shorten the rear bar 3/4" and the B-pillar 1 1/2". A-pillars will need some work as both ends will need to be re-cut.

View attachment 438547

View attachment 438548


There's about 3/4" of clearance to the tops bars. The front/back bars had to be moved in a little bit to get them away from the flip bars.

Still don’t know why they still make you put screws into your windshield header. I’ve had mine on for a while with just the 4 bolts the stock hardtop uses. I even sent them the plans for it.

 

[toomany]

Still don’t know why they still make you put screws into your windshield header. I’ve had mine on for a while with just the 4 bolts the stock hardtop uses. I even sent them the plans for it.
View attachment 438583

That's a much better setup. I actually bought the fiberglass piece that MotorCityK5 sells. Supposed to bolt on in the factory holes, then the header screws to that.

Even after trimming it down a bunch (they say it needs some) I couldn't get a fit that I was happy with. It was sticking up a good inch or so.

 

[72gmck5]

Interesting they redesigned the supports around the door windows. I wonder if those seal better. I’ve had my top since 2016, I think, and I have adjustable rods around the door windows.

 

[toomany]

Interesting they redesigned the supports around the door windows. I wonder if those seal better. I’ve had my top since 2016, I think, and I have adjustable rods around the door windows.

The top fits nice and tight around them. Rolling the window up, it looks to have a good fit against it.

 

[toomany]

Got the A-pillars re-fit. Driver's side needs to come up another 1/4-3/8" to match the passenger side. Had to take quite a bit off the bottom to get it low enough to clear the bar that connects to two window frames.






Sitting in the seat, the bar is still good bit away from your head. Going to wait a few days before I fully weld it. Take a few measurements making sure it's square and where I want it.

 

[toomany]

Brought the driver's side up a little bit. Went to fit the crossbar at the top of the windshield. After having to drop down the rear of the A-pillar bars, it put the crossbar about forehead level. Best way I could think to get around this problem was to put two stubs off the A-pillars and attach to that.

I probably could have rolled it forward a little more, but there is plenty of clearance now.




With the top off.




Wasn't my ideal plan. Down the road I may pick up a cheap bender and try redoing the front part. I'm happy with how it is now, but I think it could be better. I'm satisfied enough to move forward to other things now.

There are a few small items to take care of before I take it all apart to finish the inside of the firewall and get some primer/paint on it.

 

[toomany]

Earlier this week I wired and hung the courtesy lights under the dash. I may add some to the B and C pillar hoops, but those can be added down the road with a sub harness.

Drilled the A-pillars for the door switches today.




Decided it'd be a good idea to see if the hood still fit before I blow it all apart again.




Lined it up with the marks I made before I took it off years ago. Gaps came out almost perfect first try. Passenger fender needs to come up a little in the front, but it's close enough for now.






Waiting on the last big item that's electrical related to show up still. Once I get that and figure out where that box will go I can start pulling things apart I believe.

 

[toomany]

Got my last big electrical item (except for the fans, radio and alternator...but I know where those are going).

That item was a set of Amp Research Powersteps. This truck isn't that tall, but I'm not getting any younger and the girlfriend is kinda short. Last thing I want after I spend a bunch of money on seats is people dragging their ass across them getting in/out too.

Went with the folding steps because I'm not a huge fan of the single ones people screw to the rocker box. They look out of place and don't really function that well. I knew I wanted these but was putting off buying them till later. They are expensive for what they are. Summit never has them in stock. 4wheelparts has them but they are discount exempt. Watching prices on them and they were starting to creep up so I pulled the trigger and got a set coming.

AMP doesn't make a kit for K5's (or really anything that isn't modern). It's been determined on 67-72.com and Facebook that a set from an 07-18 4door JK are about the best to start with.





What's in the kit. The running boards themselves are nothing special, just extruded aluminum. The hinges are where the money is at. I don't know if they are $1400 nice...but they are nice pieces. Not shown is the override switch and it's wiring.




To mount them, harrij4 over at 67-72 came up with a fantastic set of plans. 100% of the design is his and he uploaded a Google document with the prints over there for others to use.

Plans call for some 3/16 plate and 1/8 strap.




After some time with the grinder, drill and welder I ended up with these. Having a fancy CNC plasma like @Greg72 got recently would have made this go much quicker.




They sandwich the rocker box and basically recreate the pinch weld that a JK has. The flange that the AMP brackets attach to isn't 90* to the bottom of the vehicle. This is accounted for with a 10* lean of the flange on the bottom plate.




I'll get some pictures next time I'm out there of how everything attaches. Had them on to check for fit then pulled them off and started painting without even thinking about it. Maybe later this week I can start on the wiring side of it. It's real simple (it is designed for Jeep people after all) so it should go quick once I decide where to mount the box.

 

[centexk5]

I think I’d have just gotten some diy4x sliders and called it a day.

 

[6872xtc]

I think I’d have just gotten some diy4x sliders and called it a day.

If you have old cranky knees like me, from working on heavy crap all of your life, you may think differently.

 

[toomany]

Finished mounting the steps.

This shows how they attach to the bottom bracket.





Mounted to the truck. The top bracket gets slid into the rocker box from the back. The 3rd bolt (behind the second pivot pin) also goes into the top plate.




Without the step mounted.




Step mounted and "down".




And "up".




Again I'm fairly impressed with the overall quality of everything in the kit, noticed that the motors were genuine Bosch. One thing I'm not happy with is they expect you to just zip tie the control box to the AC housing in the JK. There really isn't a good way to "grab ahold" of it with a bracket/clamp either.

Bent this guy up to hold the box.




It goes next to the Terminator ECU.




A couple zip ties hold it in place. They went as far as molding in channels in the box to locate the ties, but could put a tab on the sides for a screw.

Working through the wiring now. If I had the room, I would have run it through the center bulkhead, down and out to the sides. But that one is getting kind of full and I still need to pass the oil pressure and water temp wiring through it. So instead I had to run it over to the driver's side and out that one. Both sides will need extending. Should have that done sometime tomorrow.