Knocked out what little body work was needed. Next weekend I'll shoot primer over the bare spots and bedsides, then hopefully some color if that goes well.
CK5
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70 Jimmy--Rusty Rebuild
- Thread starter toomany
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bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Putting some seal sealer on the top of the windshield frame joints?
It's there, hard to see it in that picture. In post #379 I noticed i didn't have any there or on the top of the frame, went back out after posting that. I'll take another look at it to make sure I didn't miss it though. Smoothing over it with a towel with some Naptha gets rid of the excess.
That joint there, I've seen some finished and some not. My original factory one wasn't finished. The windshield gasket covers more of that area than you'd think.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Interesting to know. Mine was filled in and smoothed. I assumed all were like that.
Masked up some areas last night after work. Got an early start this morning to try and beat the heat and rain heading our way.
Rest of the primer on.
First coat of color. At this point it doesn't look good at all. Almost like a red oxide primer.
First coat of clear.
Did three clear coats overall.
Has decent shine/gloss right out of the gun. Have a slight bit of orange peel to take care of.
Color name is Canyon Dusk Copper. It was between this, a dark blueish/purple or a British racing green. I didn't want to go with the standard "Hugger Orange" because there are just too many of them out there. This is more of a burnt orange/caramel. Definitely a nice warm color.
Issue I had was I couldn't get the gun up under the dash to paint the firewall. Even my smaller one wouldn't fit. Plan B is/was to rattle can it black. Main part of the floor will be coated in some kind of liner.
I don't know if it's just the way the light hits it, but I'm not 100% happy with how the inner bedsides and wheel wells turned out either. Backup plan for the wheel wells was to coat those as well. Eventually I will install some panels on the inside of the bed, so not a huge deal...but it will bug me until then.
Rest of the primer on.
First coat of color. At this point it doesn't look good at all. Almost like a red oxide primer.
First coat of clear.
Did three clear coats overall.
Has decent shine/gloss right out of the gun. Have a slight bit of orange peel to take care of.
Color name is Canyon Dusk Copper. It was between this, a dark blueish/purple or a British racing green. I didn't want to go with the standard "Hugger Orange" because there are just too many of them out there. This is more of a burnt orange/caramel. Definitely a nice warm color.
Issue I had was I couldn't get the gun up under the dash to paint the firewall. Even my smaller one wouldn't fit. Plan B is/was to rattle can it black. Main part of the floor will be coated in some kind of liner.
I don't know if it's just the way the light hits it, but I'm not 100% happy with how the inner bedsides and wheel wells turned out either. Backup plan for the wheel wells was to coat those as well. Eventually I will install some panels on the inside of the bed, so not a huge deal...but it will bug me until then.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Love the color.
That shade of burnt orange is what I wanted to paint my 79 back in the day. I ultimately went with a red color that looked closer to a factory then the burnt orange. It's very close to your shortbox in color.
I even repainted it once. But I still went back with a red.
Still always kinda wanted a burnt orange truck.
Great choice.
That shade of burnt orange is what I wanted to paint my 79 back in the day. I ultimately went with a red color that looked closer to a factory then the burnt orange. It's very close to your shortbox in color.
I even repainted it once. But I still went back with a red.
Still always kinda wanted a burnt orange truck.
Great choice.
Final choice came down to me wanting black for the interior and having already bought a black top.
The purplish color would have been great with a white top/interior. Green would have been a better match with tan.
The purplish color would have been great with a white top/interior. Green would have been a better match with tan.
That looks great! Gotta be a huge relief and a smile on your face!
Congratulations!
Congratulations!
Thanks!
Yeah it is nice to be at this stage now. Most of the parts going on should be their final time. Overall, I'd say I'm 60% of the way there.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Looks nice.
Wasn't 100% happy with how the wheel wells came out with paint, so they got coated in liner as well.
Masked off
First coat. Had 4 bottles of Raptor liner left over from another project. Needed just under two full ones to get the first layer on.
Used up a 3rd bottle for the second coat to even things out. Should have rounded the corners more than I did over the wheel wells, not that concerned with it though.
With that being done, every part of the tub has been covered now. Everything has been primed and either LizardSkin, paint or Raptor liner.
Once this dries for another day or so, I can begin putting some stuff back on. Before I get too far along, I want to wet sand and buff/polish the outside.
Masked off
First coat. Had 4 bottles of Raptor liner left over from another project. Needed just under two full ones to get the first layer on.
Used up a 3rd bottle for the second coat to even things out. Should have rounded the corners more than I did over the wheel wells, not that concerned with it though.
With that being done, every part of the tub has been covered now. Everything has been primed and either LizardSkin, paint or Raptor liner.
Once this dries for another day or so, I can begin putting some stuff back on. Before I get too far along, I want to wet sand and buff/polish the outside.
In an effort to clean up the shop some, put the roll bar back in.
There are a few more pieces that can go back on while I wait for my buffing stuff to come in. Might get some more time this weekend to work on it yet.
There are a few more pieces that can go back on while I wait for my buffing stuff to come in. Might get some more time this weekend to work on it yet.
Friday night I finished up the plates that go below the floor under the roll bar. Put the rocker box end caps back on too.
Yesterday I wet sanded and buffed the firewall and windshield frame. This morning I did the bedsides.
Started with 1500. Going back and forth between the two sides, letting it dry a little bit gives a good indication of how far you've gone and what areas need a little more.
Finished up with 2000. Then pushed it inside for a few hours to dry out.
Probably could have gone with a more aggressive initial step when buffing. In the right light and the right angle you can see a few sanding scratches in a couple spots.
The driver's side came out almost perfect...sheet of glass. Passenger side could use another go eventually, I'm not too concerned with it at this time. Getting the paint at this stage now was mainly a precaution...if I screwed it up it wasn't that difficult to spray it again while it was still apart. Getting a sealer/wax on there will also help keep the dust from sticking to it while I work on putting the rest of it together.
Going to try dropping the motor/transmission back in before calling it a day.
Yesterday I wet sanded and buffed the firewall and windshield frame. This morning I did the bedsides.
Started with 1500. Going back and forth between the two sides, letting it dry a little bit gives a good indication of how far you've gone and what areas need a little more.
Finished up with 2000. Then pushed it inside for a few hours to dry out.
Probably could have gone with a more aggressive initial step when buffing. In the right light and the right angle you can see a few sanding scratches in a couple spots.
The driver's side came out almost perfect...sheet of glass. Passenger side could use another go eventually, I'm not too concerned with it at this time. Getting the paint at this stage now was mainly a precaution...if I screwed it up it wasn't that difficult to spray it again while it was still apart. Getting a sealer/wax on there will also help keep the dust from sticking to it while I work on putting the rest of it together.
Going to try dropping the motor/transmission back in before calling it a day.
Installed. Couldn't have gone much easier. Picked it up, rolled the truck up to it, lifted the trans with a jack then rolled a little further forward till I was lined up.
Throughout the week I've been chipping away at small tasks.
Pedal box, booster, clutch master, brake lines and headers are in.
Clutch is bled and seems to be working as it should. I don't think I have any leaks, level is steady in the master. Did get a few drips on the floor, but I think that was just residual from bleeding and came out when I moved it around.
Before paint I drilled a couple holes for bulkhead fittings. Front brake lines run through those and will go into a park lock valve mounted inside. Had originally planned on an electric line lock, but decided against that. Seen a few of them burn up. A manual valve is a better solution for my use.
Transfer case and rear driveshaft is in, but both will be coming back out. Have a leak between the clocking ring and the case. Looks like I only put a gasket between the ring and transmission and not the ring and T-case. It's leaking transmission fluid, the case itself seems to be holding its fluid just fine.
Pedal box, booster, clutch master, brake lines and headers are in.
Clutch is bled and seems to be working as it should. I don't think I have any leaks, level is steady in the master. Did get a few drips on the floor, but I think that was just residual from bleeding and came out when I moved it around.
Before paint I drilled a couple holes for bulkhead fittings. Front brake lines run through those and will go into a park lock valve mounted inside. Had originally planned on an electric line lock, but decided against that. Seen a few of them burn up. A manual valve is a better solution for my use.
Transfer case and rear driveshaft is in, but both will be coming back out. Have a leak between the clocking ring and the case. Looks like I only put a gasket between the ring and transmission and not the ring and T-case. It's leaking transmission fluid, the case itself seems to be holding its fluid just fine.
Finished off the rest of the brake system tonight.
This is the park lock valve I'm going to try using. From what I've read, it's hit/miss on how well they work. It should work like, step on pedal, push button in, let off pedal and brakes are locked. Press again and they release. If this valve doesn't work, or gives me problems, I'll switch it out for a ball valve.
It gets mounted here. Not having any seats yet, I don't know if I'll be able to reach it once belted in. I'll worry about that when I get that far.
Tried bleeding the brakes next and that's where I ran into problems. Every inverted flare to -3an fitting I got from WFO leaked on the inverted flare side. Didn't matter if it was a flare I made or a pre-made one on a section of line. I think I got them all taken care of now. They took way too much to tighten, to the point I was stripping out the hex on the tube nut. The rest of my flares/connections were fine.
Also found my clutch slave cylinder dripping from the bleed nipple. That took way more effort to stop as well too.
This is the park lock valve I'm going to try using. From what I've read, it's hit/miss on how well they work. It should work like, step on pedal, push button in, let off pedal and brakes are locked. Press again and they release. If this valve doesn't work, or gives me problems, I'll switch it out for a ball valve.
It gets mounted here. Not having any seats yet, I don't know if I'll be able to reach it once belted in. I'll worry about that when I get that far.
Tried bleeding the brakes next and that's where I ran into problems. Every inverted flare to -3an fitting I got from WFO leaked on the inverted flare side. Didn't matter if it was a flare I made or a pre-made one on a section of line. I think I got them all taken care of now. They took way too much to tighten, to the point I was stripping out the hex on the tube nut. The rest of my flares/connections were fine.
Also found my clutch slave cylinder dripping from the bleed nipple. That took way more effort to stop as well too.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
That’s weird, I don’t remember mine being very tight. Maybe oil or debris in them?
I've gotten all but one of the leaks taken care of. Had to work the fittings a few times to get them to seat, which I've heard you sometimes have to so with stainless (which the leaking parts are). The one that still drips I'm going to pull apart and re-flare with new nuts and try again.
Got my steering column installed. Originally this had a straight column. Few years ago I picked up a restored, tilt, floor shift truck column. For what I paid for it I could have gotten an aftermarket one and had money leftover. Unsure of what I'm going to do for a wheel yet. Probably going with something slightly smaller in diameter than the stock one that's for sure.
Throttle pedal snuck in there too.
Got my steering column installed. Originally this had a straight column. Few years ago I picked up a restored, tilt, floor shift truck column. For what I paid for it I could have gotten an aftermarket one and had money leftover. Unsure of what I'm going to do for a wheel yet. Probably going with something slightly smaller in diameter than the stock one that's for sure.
Throttle pedal snuck in there too.
I want to try one of the 15" stock style steering wheels from LMC. I just can't convince myself to spend $400 to get it and the new horn button assembly.
I don't care for the 14" diameter wheel in my '72, but not enough to spend the money... yet.
I don't care for the 14" diameter wheel in my '72, but not enough to spend the money... yet.
A 15" is probably what I'll end up with. I think the stock one is 17" or so. Going to wait till I get some seats mounted before making a final decision so I can get the diameter and dish correct.
