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'71 k5 "Cowboy Cadillac" LM7 swap... Over the hill

Just went out a measure the crossmember. As far as I can tell it wont matter which way its bolted up.

I didn't realize there was a difference in length between the 4l60/t350 and im thinking that's the problem. I read a ton of 5.3/t350 swaps in other vehicles and no one ever mentioned anything about it. I mean really, I dont see what else it can be.

I'll post pictures below of where its sitting now. I need about an inch. I'm not liking the drilling or BFH routes but I think I'd rather go to smash town instead of putting another 12 holes mid frame. (pending whats on the other side of the firewall...)
 
Here's the firewall clearance:
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And here's my bigger problem at the moment. The pass motor mount lands where it needs to be but the driver side is wayyy off. No idea whats up with this?

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Does the angle of the motor look normal? The trans pan seems to be sitting flush with the frame but angle seems a bit extreme?
 
You are going to need more room for the coil brackets on the passenger side also. Mine were tough to get on with the extra clearance I had.

I was having the same fitment problems with the DIY4X4 crossmember in the original and one he reworked for me after I made a template for him. Some of the issue can be attributed to the thickness of the adapter plates. I too was getting very frustrated. I was working by myself and must have had the engine in and out quite a few times. I had one thing going for me is I had a fabricator that owed me 50 hours labor for some electrical work I did for him. I made my template and then at his shop I made all the cuts on his chop saw and he TIG welded it for me. I did not have the flanges welded to the crossmember/motor mounts so I could set the engine higher/lower and then tacked it to the plates that bolt to the frame pieces. Out everything came again, back to the fabricator for some more TIG welding. A week at the powdercoater and I finally had my engine in.

Before any of that you have to solve the clearance issue. IMHO you are going to have to move the engine at least 1" forward. You probably have enough room for the shifter but may have driveshaft issues. I spent 2 months researching before even starting my project and still ran into complications. With a th350/NP205 what are you doing for the VSS?

Don't let it get to you, it is all solvable, you will win in the end. If I could, you can. I am just a dumb electrician!
 
Some of the motor mount/fitment can also be frame spread on a 40 year old frame with the original crossmember removed. With everything I did I had to slot the holes on one of the motor mounts (only do one side or the engine will be able to move left/right) I think I ended up needing to slot the one side about 1/4-3/8ths of an inch.

I also left all the bolts loose going from the crossmeber to the frame plates until I could get the big motor mount bolts in and then tightened the 8 bolts and they pulled the frame in the last little bit.

Good luck.
 
YES! haha thanks man I think the anger/frustration got me blinded. I forgot to account for the adapter plate thickness! I cant recall but in the pic it looks like the frame mounted brackets can be sunken in towards the frame some more if I oval out the holes. I'm thinking about 1/8"+ on each side should be enough to make up for it.

I'm actually a fabricator myself so you can imagine how pissed I'm getting working in the dirt with no welder or 220v anywhere in sight haha All jokes aside though it took me from 10am-5pm and a toyota tacoma just to get the engine from 5 feet infront of the blazer to where it is now. (Note to self get thicker plywood next time haha)
 
#3 Im an idiot I have read build threads where people didnt get the mounts with movement built in and left the trans crossmember bolted in the factory location but cut it and moved the center section or built a complete custom center section.

Also I got one motor mount bolt in then took like and hour trying to get the other one in with no luck. Then I took the bolt out and got the opposite side started first and then it fell right in.
 
Took some messaging, cutting and cussing but the nightmare's over. The transfer case remains in the stock position and picked up a little more exhaust clearance due to the engine being set back. The stock truck manifolds will bolt on but do kiss the frame and would need some clearance for when it shifts around.

All in all it took a bit more firewall smashing than I'd like(driver side exhaust.) and this way wont work if your running cable throttle because the stock pedal mounting location gets "Moved".

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Ran out of money so I'm at a temporary stand still until I sell something or find a job hah.
 
Yea, I'm just drilling new mounting holes so it goes up 1/2"-1". The bracket doesn't hit anymore but the rear coils wire exits straight at the firewall and would rub.

haha yea man, this will be my new daily. Once the title comes for my Tacoma its gone!
 
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