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'71 k502 The Misfit

I installed the studs in the Atlas transfer case and started preparing the transmission. I bolted the adapter to the tranny. The pic with the straight edge shows how much of the output shaft that has to be ground off, re-beveled and filed (I am not looking forward to that task)

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Check out Greg's thread. I believe that he had to do the same thing with his Atlas.
 
Most people with an Atlas have to grind it. I read a write up Billavista did on the why's and how's of it all when installing an Atlas. The real puzzler is that Advance Adapters makes the output shaft for my transmission and sends it to the builders and the shaft is still an 1/8" proud of the adapter.
 
I'd have to go back and re-read the BillaVista Atlas guide as well as the Atlas MFG docs to remember about an o-ring. I seem to recall a bag full of paper gaskets though... :thinking:

You are running a TH400?? The adapter you are using looks different than the one in my TH400 kit.....thinner overall and smaller mounting feet. Any idea what the part # is?

My TH400 adapter:

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Now that I'm using a 4L80E, I think I might end up buying a new adapter. The 4L80E uses a similar mounting hole pattern but the profile isn't the same at the face and it won't bolt up flush.... also I think the overall thickness of the 4L80E adapter is about 1.5" thinner, and I'm fighting for every inch of driveline length I can get.


:usaflag:
 
What a fun looking build! You give poor guys like myself something to drool over, and dream of doing one day!
 
It was kind of funny as I was putting the cable shifters together, I could only get the rear output to shift nice. I could not get the front output to shift into anything other than neutral and low, I finally had to walk away for the evening because I was kind of frustrated. The next session I immediately went to back off on the detent adjustment when all of sudden I start thinking about how I had always assumed it was possible for an Atlas to be in low on one output and high on the other even though it would likely be damaged. It most definitely is not possible for it to be in low in one output and high on another, in fact the reason the front wouldn't shift into high is because I wasn't fully engaging high or neutral in the rear output. Projects can throw little things at you that if you are not careful you might start doing things that aren't even necessary.
 
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Got the Jeep most of the way wired up and am in a holding pattern waiting for a few odd bits. I am going to go back to working on the Blazer as the rest of the things I needed are starting to show up. Today I got a package from Ron Davis that should keep the beast relatively cool.

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240amp alternator showed up today, it has a really small pulley and makes a good deal of it's rated amperage at an idle and then full amperage before 2000rpm. I am thinking about going to an electric water pump from Mezeire, it is a 55gpm model and would allow for a nice, simple brackets and belts setup without having to overdrive the factory short pump.

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How much did that setup set you back - looks like it's for a show truck.
 
The radiator was $800, after seeing it in person I could not be happier. Ron Davis does a really nice job and seemed very knowledgeable as to what I would need based on my description of the project and it's intended uses.
 
I bolted the transmission to the engine today. The engine is about 4 1/2 deg to the back with the tranny where it sits, is there an optimal degree for the engine drive train? Before I build a cross member I question whether or not the polly tranny isolator I have is the right one to be using with this setup????? Is there a better set of poly for the tranny cross member???

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4 - 4.5* is pretty standard rake on the drivetrain...

With the Atlas, you have less concern than most since you can clock it to almost any angle to correct for driveline angles. The only drawback will be whether you are willing to have it hang down below the framerails or not.


:usaflag:
 
If I leave the Atlas and it's tranny adapter the way it is, the flattest I can go is 14 deg. The benefit of better drive line angles might just out weigh the urge to drill the adapter so my Atlas could be flat.

I am getting ready to raise my engine and tranny up 1 1/2" so my exhaust will fit better and my tranny pan will be inside the frame rails. That might help the Atlas be mostly flat even at 14 deg.

Hacked out all my rockers, torsion boxes, fixed all the holes in the floor, etc... in that region and have pics soon.
 
With all the holes in the planetary for those "green studs" there should be a setup that allows for flat-clocking without re-drilling.

Those studs are REALLY hard to get installed, so I don't blame you if you don't want to move them around again. I've got some decent photos of the mine before I mounted the tranny, so if you want to try to figure out which holes worked for "flat clocking" the pics might give you clues.


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