You can just open up the holes on your current adapter.
Martin
Martin
CK5
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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build
- Thread starter bp71k5
- Start date
I really like my Sanderson headers. They're pricey but seem worth it so far.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Anyone run into this issue with the crossmember? I wonder if it's supposed to go in the forward holes of the frame?
Are your inside plates upside down maybe? Or are they symmetrical?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
It took a bunch of swapping parts around to realize it's not symmetrical. I think what's going on is that my frame rails are bent outward up at the top for some reason. Need to decide whether to just drill new holes in the frame for those C plates or try and bend the frame rails back together a little bit. They have to move a half inch each.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Thinking about this more... if the top of the frame rails really are bent outward, that give me a little more clearance for exhaust. Looking like I'll modify the C brackets on the crossmember instead.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 6/27/2017
I was thinking this would be my last summit box tonight, but I was wrong.
Sanderson BB4 block huggers:
Drivers side literally cannot be any closer to the block and pan. It's truely a hugger I guess. I admit I really like the look of headers.
My clutch slave cylinder stick past the block mating surface about 6.5", so there's a few inches of extra room on this side to fit ok, which has been my primary concern so far.
This is more of a problem. Would need to remove the headers to remove the motor, or cut down the bolt. Not a real deal breaker, but I'd like a little more room near the mount of possible and there's a few other items like the passenger side just about pinches the oil dipstick between the block. I'm somewhat amazed they could get them that close repeatably.
A shot of the patented no leak/no gasket precision ground weld bead. They do indeed appear to be very flat, but it would have been nice to make the welds a little more controlled. They are also a little thin (16g) so I'm sending them back for hopefully a better option in about a week. This gives me time to test fit the motor and see if I need to do anything to the firewall.
I was thinking this would be my last summit box tonight, but I was wrong.
Sanderson BB4 block huggers:
Drivers side literally cannot be any closer to the block and pan. It's truely a hugger I guess. I admit I really like the look of headers.
My clutch slave cylinder stick past the block mating surface about 6.5", so there's a few inches of extra room on this side to fit ok, which has been my primary concern so far.
This is more of a problem. Would need to remove the headers to remove the motor, or cut down the bolt. Not a real deal breaker, but I'd like a little more room near the mount of possible and there's a few other items like the passenger side just about pinches the oil dipstick between the block. I'm somewhat amazed they could get them that close repeatably.
A shot of the patented no leak/no gasket precision ground weld bead. They do indeed appear to be very flat, but it would have been nice to make the welds a little more controlled. They are also a little thin (16g) so I'm sending them back for hopefully a better option in about a week. This gives me time to test fit the motor and see if I need to do anything to the firewall.
Run a shorter bolt. Weld a nut to the mount?
Martin
Martin
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Yea, not an impossible problem if there wasn't a cleaner option. Gotta wait a week though to see if plan "B" will work any better.
I prefer the motor mounts with attached nuts.
Martin
Martin
Why those headers and not the "BB8" set listed for the application?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
The BB8 would interfere with the clutch slave even more it would be right on top of it
I gotcha. They clear my slave cyl fine but that's OE vs your custom set up, the hose fitting on yours does look like it sticks further out.
Brian,
IIRC, I had to add a piece of plate on one side to get the motor mount to work. I think AJ had to, too??
I can't remember why, or even if it's still in there. I'll go up and check in a bit.
IIRC, I had to add a piece of plate on one side to get the motor mount to work. I think AJ had to, too??
I can't remember why, or even if it's still in there. I'll go up and check in a bit.
I made a lot of mods to the crossmember and had Kert do 3 different lengths of mounts. I wouldn't expect to be able to pull the engine without removing a LOT of stuff. That's largely why I redid the top end in the truck.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 7/1/2017
Getting closer...leaving room for a future AC compressor on the passenger side. Just adapted the small block setup onto the new motor.
Getting closer...leaving room for a future AC compressor on the passenger side. Just adapted the small block setup onto the new motor.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 07/03/2017
I picked a bad day to work outside. Crazy hot.
Anyway, engine almost in. This is where I discovered the heads interfere with the accelerator pedal and the firewall. You can imagine me removing and installing this thing 6 times and guess how tiring it was. I'll admit getting all the holes in that crossmember took ALL day.
Passenger side not too bad. Need a little clearance.
Driver side not going to work.
So as I was test fitting radiator hose clearance, I stumbled upon this lump in the frame that's bugged me for years. The lower radiator hose rubs right in top of it. Might as well fix that while the motor is out.
Sliced a V in the middle
Sliced a few more spots and beat the sections down as flat as I could.
Welded up the slices and ground them reasonably flat.
No more annoying lump!
One other reason spend some time welding was I discovered the crossmember was installed too far back. So I redrilled all the holes 1" forward to give me more clearance at the firewall.
Old holes welded up and ground.
All painted black with crossmember mounting plates temporarily installed.
Looks fairly decent.
After that, I fought with lining up the engine mounts with the crossmember until ~10:30pm where I got everything finally to bolt together. Had to slot the motor mounts a little bit to get the holes to line up. It still needs to come back out one more time to install the clutch and weld up the firewall clearancing that I did. Pictures in the dark stink so I'll wait until tomorrow. It's a holiday and I'm not touching this thing tomorrow other than for a picture of the motor installed. Happy 4th everyone!
I picked a bad day to work outside. Crazy hot.
Anyway, engine almost in. This is where I discovered the heads interfere with the accelerator pedal and the firewall. You can imagine me removing and installing this thing 6 times and guess how tiring it was. I'll admit getting all the holes in that crossmember took ALL day.
Passenger side not too bad. Need a little clearance.
Driver side not going to work.
So as I was test fitting radiator hose clearance, I stumbled upon this lump in the frame that's bugged me for years. The lower radiator hose rubs right in top of it. Might as well fix that while the motor is out.
Sliced a V in the middle
Sliced a few more spots and beat the sections down as flat as I could.
Welded up the slices and ground them reasonably flat.
No more annoying lump!
One other reason spend some time welding was I discovered the crossmember was installed too far back. So I redrilled all the holes 1" forward to give me more clearance at the firewall.
Old holes welded up and ground.
All painted black with crossmember mounting plates temporarily installed.
Looks fairly decent.
After that, I fought with lining up the engine mounts with the crossmember until ~10:30pm where I got everything finally to bolt together. Had to slot the motor mounts a little bit to get the holes to line up. It still needs to come back out one more time to install the clutch and weld up the firewall clearancing that I did. Pictures in the dark stink so I'll wait until tomorrow. It's a holiday and I'm not touching this thing tomorrow other than for a picture of the motor installed. Happy 4th everyone!
A big block doesn't drop into a 4WD 1st Gen?...... who knew? 
All that hard work probably makes you hungry. Have some cookies!
-G
All that hard work probably makes you hungry. Have some cookies!
-G
That spot on the frame you worked on is where the alternator sits in the stock location. It's a factory clearance thing.
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
Not in the brochures at least. Here is the 69, and the pic in the 72 one looks the same, but the picture was lower detail:
http://brochures.slosh.com/1969/blazer3.jpg
http://brochures.slosh.com/index.shtml?1969
I kind of assumed it was a rounded surface for fuel lines or evap lines to route around.
