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'72 Bluggy: Rocks/ 47s/ LoMax

...here are pictures of the template that i made for the FUSH, if anyone can use this, let me know & i can mail it out...don't think i'll be using it anymore, then a pic of the 8" shackles, shorter bushings that will be used in conjunction with my 52s & Sky x-member (i will have to drill out the holes in the x-member to accept the bigger bolts), and my TeraLow 60 manual hubs...

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& here's the work that we got done today...we cut out the pieces of metal for the entire passenger side, tomorrow i'll start primering those pieces & will begin on the driver side. it didn't take us too long to get the pass side done. once there was some confidence built, my wife's uncle let me take over with the torch...& let's just say thank God for the grinder :haha: as there were a few pieces that needed to be fixed :D . so hopefully by wednesday we'll start welding those SOBs on. i hope you guys are a bit more satisfied with the updates. i'll continue posting pics frequently.

this was the only pic i had time to snap...sorry

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It looks great - (except for the off-brand hubs - but then I'm biased :D ) that DIY engine crossmember looks even better in the frame than out!

Can't wait to see your frame all boxed in.
 
Some great progress is happening on your end for sure. That rig is gonna definitely be built tough. Keep giving us updates.
 
I really like the work you're doing on this. It really looks great!!

I do have a couple suggestions/questions though

Firstly, (is that a word :rolleyes:), check this website I just found. Lots of great tips & tricks for where you're at I especially like the advice of welding your bracket nuts to the inside of the rail. Makes it real easy to assemble everything when you're done coating it. You should also check out Art Morrison as well, because there are some really great shots, details, fab parts, & tips that you could incorporate if you wanted to.
I'm especially fond of the through-frame exhaust detail, because I want my exhaust to exit in front of my rear tires up in the quarter panel like you see on the Baja trucks.

Secondly, (I know this is a word :wink1:), I see that you are going to leave in the factory crossmembers & weld in the plate around it. My question is why?
We obviously have access to some fabulous fabricators here on this board, you've got the entire thing broken down, just have some custom crossmembers built up that do EXACTLY what you want to do, where you want to do it.

Don't get me wrong, what you're doing is awesome, & I'd love to have a place to be able to break mine down that far myself. I don't know if I'd have the ambition to finish it, but at least I'd get to work on it that way. Anyways this isn't about me & my lack of workspace, I digress.:doah: I just recommend that while you're at this stage to "let it all hang out" Fully box that sucker front to rear, & in the areas where you need crossmembers, have DIY4x build you the same type of crossmember that'll bolt-in in between the rails. Then, not only will you benefit, but all of us first-gen guys will, because there will be more stuff for us to choose from because of the time you & DIY4X have taken as a result of this project. Those custom crossmembers that he builds are awesome as you know, & I'd LOVE to be able to set my truck up with several of them up & down my frame if it's possible.

You knew there would be some kind of selfish motivation there didn't you. :wink1: You do the work & I'll benefit from the experience. I'm all about the vicarious living. :waytogo:

Anyways, the project is totally awesome, but you're at a point where you can go over the top & it not be obnoxious. I say go for it!
 
BUDDY said:
I really like the work you're doing on this. It really looks great!!

I do have a couple suggestions/questions though

Firstly, (is that a word :rolleyes:), check this website I just found. Lots of great tips & tricks for where you're at I especially like the advice of welding your bracket nuts to the inside of the rail. Makes it real easy to assemble everything when you're done coating it. You should also check out Art Morrison as well, because there are some really great shots, details, fab parts, & tips that you could incorporate if you wanted to.
I'm especially fond of the through-frame exhaust detail, because I want my exhaust to exit in front of my rear tires up in the quarter panel like you see on the Baja trucks.

Secondly, (I know this is a word :wink1:), I see that you are going to leave in the factory crossmembers & weld in the plate around it. My question is why?
We obviously have access to some fabulous fabricators here on this board, you've got the entire thing broken down, just have some custom crossmembers built up that do EXACTLY what you want to do, where you want to do it.

Don't get me wrong, what you're doing is awesome, & I'd love to have a place to be able to break mine down that far myself. I don't know if I'd have the ambition to finish it, but at least I'd get to work on it that way. Anyways this isn't about me & my lack of workspace, I digress.:doah: I just recommend that while you're at this stage to "let it all hang out" Fully box that sucker front to rear, & in the areas where you need crossmembers, have DIY4x build you the same type of crossmember that'll bolt-in in between the rails. Then, not only will you benefit, but all of us first-gen guys will, because there will be more stuff for us to choose from because of the time you & DIY4X have taken as a result of this project. Those custom crossmembers that he builds are awesome as you know, & I'd LOVE to be able to set my truck up with several of them up & down my frame if it's possible.

You knew there would be some kind of selfish motivation there didn't you. :wink1: You do the work & I'll benefit from the experience. I'm all about the vicarious living. :waytogo:

Anyways, the project is totally awesome, but you're at a point where you can go over the top & it not be obnoxious. I say go for it!


Thanks for the links, but those look way over the top of my budget & time. To answer your second question, I live in deep south Texas, where there aren't many "famous" fabricators. But I like the idea that we've developed. we're boxing as close as possible to the x-members and leaving the ends open for bumpers. with the addition of my 10 pt cage, that frame should have way more rigidity than the original frame. & again it all comes back to money & time. i'm running short on money & time is just not my best friend right now. by the time all the x-members were to get built, i'd be back another 1-2 months. so i think our idea is good enough for now & if the frame does end up cracking on me...I guess it'll just be time for a tube bluggy :D . i hope that answers your questions....
 
Yeah, I knew the links were for some really nice stuff, just trying to give you more inspiration & fab ideas. Like you need that. ;)

I don't doubt that it will definitely be stronger, just throwin' out suggestions. :waytogo:

I still say to weld your nuts to the frame. Man, that sounds dirty & painful. :p:

Later,
Buddy
 
Buddy,

The other reality is that the longer a project takes (by deciding to do more "blingy" stuff) the less likely it is to ever get completed.... you sort of need to decide how far to go and then stick to the plan.

The first link is interesting, but personally it looks bizarre to see a crossmember made of round tubing in a fully boxed frame. Art Morrison does a "boxed looking" crossmember with the exhaust thru-holes which aesthetically looks a not nicer. I doubt it's any more work than the tubular stuff.... :thinking:

The one thing that always concerns me about fully boxing a frame is how to be 100% sure that you don't get water and debris inside the frame somehow....or if there was a way to coat those inside surfaces with a rust-inhibitor that wouldn't burn up as you welded the boxing plates on?? The final challenge is where to locate all the fuel, brake and electrical lines.... the inner frame channel makes for such a nice hiding spot, but you have to give it up once you go with a boxed solution....
 
Greg72 said:
Buddy,

The other reality is that the longer a project takes (by deciding to do more "blingy" stuff) the less likely it is to ever get completed.... you sort of need to decide how far to go and then stick to the plan.....

Amen to that - I am "being there - doing that"
 
Greg72 said:
Buddy,

The other reality is that the longer a project takes (by deciding to do more "blingy" stuff) the less likely it is to ever get completed.... you sort of need to decide how far to go and then stick to the plan.

The first link is interesting, but personally it looks bizarre to see a crossmember made of round tubing in a fully boxed frame. Art Morrison does a "boxed looking" crossmember with the exhaust thru-holes which aesthetically looks a not nicer. I doubt it's any more work than the tubular stuff.... :thinking:

The one thing that always concerns me about fully boxing a frame is how to be 100% sure that you don't get water and debris inside the frame somehow....or if there was a way to coat those inside surfaces with a rust-inhibitor that wouldn't burn up as you welded the boxing plates on?? The final challenge is where to locate all the fuel, brake and electrical lines.... the inner frame channel makes for such a nice hiding spot, but you have to give it up once you go with a boxed solution....

All good points Greg, & well taken.

I wasn't really recommending the "bling" just the solid engineering that's been figured out by those companies. I'm a cut, copy & paste kinda guy. I see an idea that I like, think of a way to incorporate it into my design, & TRY to execute that idea as best as I can, for as sheap as I can, 'cause I'm FLAT broke. That's why I really like MNorby's build-up, simple, cheap but effective. Just what I'm looking for. However, I can't say much about anything seeing as how all of my design & ideas are only ideas at this point. There is nothing substantial actually built as yet. I've done a few things that I like, but as you say, (and I paraphrase), it could quickly snowball out of control.

About the exhaust passage, I was talking about it passing through the framerail in front of the rear spring hanger, not just through a crossmember. If you're building crossmembers anyways, then you can route the exhaust through or over them as you see fit. I like the idea of it passing through the frame so there's no loss of ground clearance in the way that I'd like to route my exhaust, (One single 3" outlet passing through the frame or above the frame & exiting in the lower quarter panel in front of the passenger rear tire), but you have to figure out a way to do that with out weakening the frame significantly. I think the exhaust passage the art morrison has as an option is a very elegant & functional solution to that issue for me.

Regarding the running of lines, he's already there with this project. He'll have to figure out a way to mount up all the lines & wiring as it stands. I'm personally a big fan of the "Multi-Slot Routing Mounts" or the "Light Duty Routing Mounts" from mcmaster-carr. But again, I have no actual experience with them, they just look like they work work perfectly, so take it with a grain of salt.

The rust control is definitely an issue that I can't think of a good solution to.:confused: Maybe if the rails were completely boxed & sealed, (even in sections), they could be used as air storage & you just blow in some oil every so often to keep it greasy in there, but then you'd have the "oily air" problem & have to have seperators at any outlet. Maybe that's a terrible idea, I don't know, I just like to try to think out of the box. :doah:

Later,
Buddy
 
Greg72 said:
Buddy,

The other reality is that the longer a project takes (by deciding to do more "blingy" stuff) the less likely it is to ever get completed.... you sort of need to decide how far to go and then stick to the plan.


The one thing that always concerns me about fully boxing a frame is how to be 100% sure that you don't get water and debris inside the frame somehow....or if there was a way to coat those inside surfaces with a rust-inhibitor that wouldn't burn up as you welded the boxing plates on?? The final challenge is where to locate all the fuel, brake and electrical lines.... the inner frame channel makes for such a nice hiding spot, but you have to give it up once you go with a boxed solution....

both very good points Greg. i've strayed from the plan way too much & it has cost me lots of time. but the main reason i decided to stray was because i thought it was a worthwhile modification. as for fully boxing the frame, mine won't be fully boxed as you will see in the pictures. i'm leaving a few gaps to run my wiring through the inside, as well as my propane lines, to keep a cleaner look & for protection...also, the openings will allow me to wash out the mud & debris that gets in. here's what i came up with & hopefully it works. i picked up the frame last nite and twisted it side to side and i can already notice the added rigidity and weight :doah: :haha: also i hope my 10 pt cage will add more than enough rigidity. i'll also be adding some material to the front end of frame to add some strength when i mount the Sky x-member. in the pics everything is tack welded with an arc welder, as we were having trouble with the MIG last nite, but hopefully those issues will be resolved today & we can get it working and finish off welding everything into place. the pics are of the passenger side.

p.s. i learned the hard way about the primer burning off :haha:

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the driver side...& everything with the primer thrown on. hopefully we finish up today. and start working on other parts of the frame that need to be addressed. i know it's not too pretty but hopefully i can get everything cleaned up, grinded down a bit, and painted soon. let me know what you think...i'm sure there's plenty of gripes out there to be said :D

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Pretty cool. One option for keeping the rust out after you box the frame would be to get the entire thing powder coated. The powder gets attracted to the insides way better than paint will as long as you have a few ways for it to get in. Adding some holes would help too. I wish I had the time for a frame off resto.
 
i may just end up sandblasting/powdercoating the darn thing. i know a guy who knows a guy who can do it for a good price. but anyway, we got the top side of the plates fully welded on. on monday, we'll start the bottom side of the plates & then get everything cleaned up. no pics yet....
 
You can't powdercoat the inside of the frame with all that primer & paint on it, which is the reason to powdercoat it. You can always touch up the outside of the frame but not the inside once you've done all this work.

Maybe you could try the rust-bullet or POR15 treatment, but you have to be able to apply that stuff to all of the surfaces.

It's a tough situation, I don't know what the solution is. :confused:

Good Luck,
Buddy
 
BUDDY said:
You can't powdercoat the inside of the frame with all that primer & paint on it, which is the reason to powdercoat it. You can always touch up the outside of the frame but not the inside once you've done all this work.

Maybe you could try the rust-bullet or POR15 treatment, but you have to be able to apply that stuff to all of the surfaces.

It's a tough situation, I don't know what the solution is. :confused:

Good Luck,
Buddy

yea. i think we'll be sandblasting the entire frame again & then powdercoating the whole thing. there's always a solution to every problem...unless it involves politics :doah: :haha:
 
If you can - have them do a primer under powdercoat under the main coat of powder - or do a zinc oxide dip (or rinse) rather than iron oxide dip (or rinse).

It is much better
 
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