I'm really happy to hear this is the route you are going.
CK5
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72 burb (this is why i can't go to salvage yards)
- Thread starter Vombrown
- Start date
Vombrown
Mountain Man
It will certainly be a lot easier. Diesels are what I know and having a complete truck for parts is going to be great. No running around looking for this or that just swap out of one into the other.
Still need a good amount of small parts for the 72 but the 84 should supply all the other parts I need.
Still need a good amount of small parts for the 72 but the 84 should supply all the other parts I need.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
I'm even thinking of using the seats. Although the driver seat is pretty ratty its nothing that a new upholstery cover won't fix.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
I have some concerns with the power steering hydroboost setup swapping over to the steering box on the 72. The old suburban is a power steering box but I'm not sure the lines will interchange with the newer stuff.
I am also fairly certain ill be using the leaf springs from the 84. Or at least some combination of the two. I don't like the deflexed springs under the diesel trucks so I think adding a few leaves to the front pack will make it work much better. In not after lift just an arched spring versus a deflexed spring.
I am also fairly certain ill be using the leaf springs from the 84. Or at least some combination of the two. I don't like the deflexed springs under the diesel trucks so I think adding a few leaves to the front pack will make it work much better. In not after lift just an arched spring versus a deflexed spring.
You can swap the box from the '84 to the '72 and then all of the lines will work.
You will need to keep the rag joint on the box. Mounting the hydro -boost may take a little work, but nothing serious.
When I put hydro-boost on my '70, I got a kit from Vanco. His mount wasn't correct back then, I sent him a corrected template.
But anyway, his kit removed the linkage and brackets from between the firewall and booster. It also came with a new pushrod in the booster. It was longer to reach the pedal arm.
You will need to keep the rag joint on the box. Mounting the hydro -boost may take a little work, but nothing serious.
When I put hydro-boost on my '70, I got a kit from Vanco. His mount wasn't correct back then, I sent him a corrected template.
But anyway, his kit removed the linkage and brackets from between the firewall and booster. It also came with a new pushrod in the booster. It was longer to reach the pedal arm.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
My plan is to swap the carriage inside the truck as well. That will also fix the gas pedal issue for the diesel. 84 to 72. With everything stripped from the 84 it should be fairly simple. So the 84 steering box is a direct swap into the 72? That would mAke things easy.
Yup. I made the switch to hydroboost in my '72. Originally I reflared the lines so I could put standard flare nuts on and use my original steering box, but the idea of having lines that were not easily replaced changed my mind. Since you have a steering box with the correct fittings already, no reason not to use it.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Nice. While working on these trucks for years I am not always so up to date on the swaps. The 84 has a nice tilt column in too. I am thinking that needs to go in there as well. That and the wiring hArness would solve a lot of cut and splice issues for sure. Although losing the dash mounted key switch is sort of depressing. Having the upgraded steering system complete does mAke more sense.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Feels good to get her back on her feet. Even if its just roll around tires. It hit me today that I know where I want to go with this truck. I think it needs to be a sleeper of sorts. Basically stock appearing on the outside. Big diesel And all the goodies under the hood and chassis.
I love the sound of that. Kind of what I had in mind for my Suburban. Even though I love square bodies I've always wanted a Suburban like yours. Keep the updates coming
Vombrown
Mountain Man
I have been talking all day to the best diesel guys in the business. Working out some details and mechanical things. Sounds like my goal of 250 Hp 6.2 might be a little conservative. It might be possible to push this thing up to the 350 and still have good reliability. I know for some this might seem far fetched. Keep in mind there are 550hp 6.2s out there. I am working out the details now but it might involve a twin turbo setup. That is the most effective use of space. We will see what happens. No matter what I want to keep the reliability and dependability there. This doesn't need to be some cool race or dyno truck that won't make it down the road.
I like this. Preserve the look and have everything else you wanted. I'm all for preservation of mostly stock look, particularly with a body as nice as that one.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
I wish it was as nice as it looks in pictures. It will need extensive work unfortunately. Mostly cosmetic but it has bondo in the right rear quarter. The right rear tail light is also mashed a little. It will also need work under the door kicker area. The grand scheme of things it isn't bad I guess.
post some close up pics of those areas , i'll try to help find you some parts...I enjoy searching for things
Vombrown
Mountain Man
These are the problem areas. I think the taillight housing area will pull out. There is already some body work back there. The other places are must rusty and need to be cut out and patched. Everything else looks good. Doors seem to be straight. Hood is nice and the fenders are fairly clean. It is the original paint on most of the truck so thAT should mAke it a little easier.
Ok, so I know that I won't be able to explain, or remember everything, but...
The pedal assembly won't go into the '72 as a drop in. I don't know what it would take to make it fit. The pedal may swap, but check out the ratio it has before you get into destruct mode.
The column can be made to fit without changing the pedal assembly/ column mount, but not quickly.
The '84 has wipers on the turn signal, correct? When I did this conversion on my '70, we couldn't figure out how to make the original wiper motor work with the stalk controls. So we installed the motor from an '85, which required removal of the original wiper motor mount, then making a new adapter plate.
The gas pedal shouldn't be a problem as '72 has a cable throttle pedal, so swap the cable for the longer diesel part. I believe that the metal bar which holds the pedal us bent different for the different body styles.
The wiring harness will work with making the fuse box fit the hole in the firewall. Trim the hole, and change the screw locations.
I don't know what else right now..
But keep going!!
The pedal assembly won't go into the '72 as a drop in. I don't know what it would take to make it fit. The pedal may swap, but check out the ratio it has before you get into destruct mode.
The column can be made to fit without changing the pedal assembly/ column mount, but not quickly.
The '84 has wipers on the turn signal, correct? When I did this conversion on my '70, we couldn't figure out how to make the original wiper motor work with the stalk controls. So we installed the motor from an '85, which required removal of the original wiper motor mount, then making a new adapter plate.
The gas pedal shouldn't be a problem as '72 has a cable throttle pedal, so swap the cable for the longer diesel part. I believe that the metal bar which holds the pedal us bent different for the different body styles.
The wiring harness will work with making the fuse box fit the hole in the firewall. Trim the hole, and change the screw locations.
I don't know what else right now..
But keep going!!
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Today was good and crappy. While I have other irons in the fire getting the engine off to the machine shop I stopped by a little lot where a guy had a few 70s Chevy trucks. I was able to score a ramsey pto winch and front bumper for a 72 Chevy. They will look great restored on the front of the burb.
I really want a rear facing winch as well on this truck but it needs to be invisible or period correct. So while parts are out everywhere i think I will fab a rear winch mount to hide behind the rear bumper. Then I can strengthen the rear bumper to support a roller fairlead. Keeping with the theory of original appearing or invisible.
I really want a rear facing winch as well on this truck but it needs to be invisible or period correct. So while parts are out everywhere i think I will fab a rear winch mount to hide behind the rear bumper. Then I can strengthen the rear bumper to support a roller fairlead. Keeping with the theory of original appearing or invisible.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Oh and forgot that diy4x got another chunk of mo key for new u bolts, plates and an oz inch kit for the rear axle swap to the 14 bolt. New shock tabs as well. While I am not planning on a lift for the truck I will be using the stock springs combined with the overload from the 84 parts suburban. I think it will result in about 2 inches of lift. Plenty to clear the tires I want to run.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
While I am working on the rear end I have been weighing the options of disc brakes. I don't really want to fuss with braking systems on this truck. DRums are tried and true. Not sure how the discs work in the snow and ice. I do know that off proportioning of fro t and back will put my new project in a ditch come winter if it isn't on the money.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
On my 72 disk works great and are easier to service. Drops 150 pounds or so as well. I used my stock prop valve and just gutted the rear part so it was wide open and both ends get close to the same breaking power. No problems with mine but some have had problems and need a adjustable one to bias the brakes in the rear.
