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72 C10 - longbed muscle truck

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Update: alternator is charging, I have a ground issue somewhere that is causing the headlight problem. When you turn on the headlights the red light out indicator in the dash comes on and so does the left turn signal, but it doesn't flash. Also the gas gauge pegs empty. Weird. Heat shield helped the hot start issue but I'm still going to get a mini starter because it's not right yet. I must have more compression than before and I know I am running more initial advance then before. The truck is driving good. I need to fix the oil leak before I really start driving it a lot. It's irritating. Gotta be either the back of the intake or valve covers, it drops down both sides of the back of the motor and drops off of the front corners of the transmission. Hope to have that straightened out on Thursday.
 
So I thought the red light was the high beam indicator. That's when mine comes on at least.

And my guess for the frozen turn signal would be a bad ground at one of the turn signal or running lamps, or one of those bulbs burnt out on the side that is stuck on. I have the issue with my front bumper light ground coming loose and so sometimes the blinker down there doesn't like to work.
 
ekajkrats said:
So I thought the red light was the high beam indicator. That's when mine comes on at least.

And my guess for the frozen turn signal would be a bad ground at one of the turn signal or running lamps, or one of those bulbs burnt out on the side that is stuck on. I have the issue with my front bumper light ground coming loose and so sometimes the blinker down there doesn't like to work.
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Mine has never come on with the high beams. I didn't even know it was there until it came on one night and I got out and looked and one of my headlights was out. New headlight and the light hasn't come on since.
 
So does that mean that your high beams don't work? Or just that for some reason the indicator doesn't?
I would say to look at the grounds and front turn bulb , too.
The gas gauge goes to empty when it is seeing 0 ohms. (Shorted) I am not sure where to tell you on that.
 
6872xtc said:
So does that mean that your high beams don't work? Or just that for some reason the indicator doesn't?
I would say to look at the grounds and front turn bulb , too.
The gas gauge goes to empty when it is seeing 0 ohms. (Shorted) I am not sure where to tell you on that.
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No my high beams work fine, it's just the red light doesn't come on when they come on. The gas gauge thing is weird, it has always worked fine but now when you turn the lights on it goes to peg out at empty, lights off, it will go back to the correct fuel level. I know I have a short or bad ground somewhere on the driver side of the engine bay, playing around with the multimeter the other day with my neighbor made that obvious. I think I must have pulled/pinched/disoriented a wire somehow during the engine pull/install though I don't remember doing so. I will investigate more on Thursday when I am off. Thanks for the ideas guys.
 
Got the intake pulled off and resealed today, the oil leak was coming from the back corners best I could tell. Used a different kind of rtv this time, the right stuff, I had used red permatex before. Hopefully it holds up. Also resealed the fittings on the intake with permatex #2 which I read was the best to use on fittings/bolts. Waiting until tomorrow afternoon to fire it up and praying for no more leaking. Then I am going to change the oil and go for a drive. Hopefully now I can finally start enjoying it. I haven't really driven it much yet due to the oil leak, as well as the hot start problems I have been having, but the heat shield I put on has helped that a lot. Still buying a high torque unit as soon as possible though. Also going to investigate the headlight ground problem tomorrow.
 
I can't remember if I told you or not, but I have a couple of gear reduction starters from factory stuff. Look up late nineties vortec engines.
They are permanent magnet units, and maybe you can find a good deal??
 
6872xtc said:
I can't remember if I told you or not, but I have a couple of gear reduction starters from factory stuff. Look up late nineties vortec engines.
They are permanent magnet units, and maybe you can find a good deal??
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So you have one you would sell? If one will work well with my headers and higher than stock compression I would be interested. Im sure it would be cheaper than a new mini starter.
 
Sorry, no. I got one from a '99 454, and put one on my '72 C10, with the 406.
Somehow, my '95 K2500 had one when I got it.
I can't say if one of these would be cheaper than some of the other mini-starters, but maybe you can find something. ??
Sorry that I am not more help.
 
Well the intake is not leaking anymore, or doesn't seem to be. Fittings seem to be sealed up too. Took a good long ride today with my dog. Seems to be running alright. I think I am going to have to adjust the valves with the motor running/covers off. They are set pretty good but I feel like it would make it run better. Changed the oil today as well. No metal shavings. I'm happy with it.
 
The engine is still running great, I have driven it a bunch over the last week, its not running hot or anything and sounds good. The oil leaks are pissing me off. Oil pan is leaking and I think the fuel pump mounting plate is too. I used a cheap gasket that I had laying around. Intake or something at the top of the back is also still leaking, don't know why. Probably going to try and pull it this weekend to fix all of them hopefully. SBC's are just destined to leak I guess. Not sure what I did wrong the first time but if you guys have any advice on sealing common leak points or anything please post it. Other than that its doing fine. I want to get a holley 4160 for it, this edelbrock is driving me crazy. Ready to get this thing leak free and then move on to the fun stuff.
 
I can't remember if you talked about it before, but did you use the rubber end seals on the intake? I quit using those decades ago.
Is the gasket under the distributor in decent shape? Or is the oil pressure line leaking?
I'm not help on the oil pan, mine leaks too...
I just use a very thin coat of rtv on the gaskets at the fuel pump. VERY THIN!

What's wrong with the carb? I have had better luck with Edelbrock than Holley, but maybe it's depending on what you are used to dealing with?
 
6872xtc said:
I can't remember if you talked about it before, but did you use the rubber end seals on the intake? I quit using those decades ago.
Is the gasket under the distributor in decent shape? Or is the oil pressure line leaking?
I'm not help on the oil pan, mine leaks too...
I just use a very thin coat of rtv on the gaskets at the fuel pump. VERY THIN!

What's wrong with the carb? I have had better luck with Edelbrock than Holley, but maybe it's depending on what you are used to dealing with?
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I too have never used the end seals for the intake. Just RTV. Dizzy seal is new and I checked the oil pressure fitting and its not the culprit. What I have found is that the fel pro 1 piece oil pan gasket I am using just doesn't work with the summit alum. timing cover that I am running. The front seal doesn't drop down into the timing cover enough. I am going to change it to a 4 piece pan gasket when I pull the motor and use the front seal that came with the timing cover. On the upside, my buddy just got a new random orbital buffer and wanted to try it out so we just finished a 4 stage compound/polish/wax on it and its shining. Im going to our monthly cruise in tomorrow morning and I'll take pics then.
 
Got the engine out. After looking it over once I got it on the stand I can see 4 big leak points. Oil pan gasket, valve covers, rear intake and distributor seal. Last one is weird to me. I have never had a dizzy leak. Going to get my new seals put in on Friday and drop her back in on Saturday. Leak free this time or I'm driving it off a cliff.

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I had a dizzy that leaked once on an intake that had been milled. Wasn't yours new?
 
Throwing the motor back together today and hopefully stabbing it back in the truck. One thing I noticed yesterday when I pulled the intake was most of the lifters plungers were pushed down. Believe they may have lost their prime when I had the engine upside down on the stand doing the oil pan gasket. Should I reprime the oil pump before I try to crank it or will they pump back up on their own?
 
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