You guys are so far ahead of me mechanically, its not even funny. Keep up the good work, I'll be interested to see what kind of mpg you get once its all buttoned up.
CK5
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'72 K5 - AJ's Gray Matter Build
- Thread starter AJs72K5
- Start date
UPDATE 9/16/08: We (I had help tonight) got the TH350/NP205 combo out of the truck. It was a battle just about every step of the way. The dual exhaust made it difficult to pull the tranny crossmember out. We ended up disconnecting the collectors and a couple of exhaust hangers to get some room...the collectors are resting on the floor at this point. Once we got the crossmember down, tranny got hung up on the headers...this may have partly been because we pulled the 350/205 out as a complete unit. I wish I had a taken a pic of the carnage underneath the truck, but I didn't. The only pic of the night was the purple 350/205 sitting on a tranny jack in the corner.
Tomorrow night: start the 700r4 install!
Tomorrow night: start the 700r4 install!
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
Hey, wait a minute! I thought those were supposed to be covered with a heavy layer of grime!
UPDATE 9/17/08: The tranny is bolted in! We mocked up the crossmember and it is moved back about 1.5". The tall style 700r4/208 or 700r4/241 adapter is definately the way to go. It's a direct bolt in with the 1st gen crossmember. We still need to do all the small stuff with the tranny...hook up the cable shifter, TV cable, torque converter lockout, and the tranny cooler. We also need to bolt in the 241.
Here's a pic of the installed 700r4 showing the adapter and crossmember.
Tomorrow night: bolt in the 241 and get some of the wiring and cable related stuff done on the 700r4.
Here's a pic of the installed 700r4 showing the adapter and crossmember.
Tomorrow night: bolt in the 241 and get some of the wiring and cable related stuff done on the 700r4.
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
Are you going to have to rework the exhaust completely or do you anticipate that some of it will work?
UPDATE 9/18/08: The transfer case and the crossmember are in! All of the heavy lifting is now done.
700r4/SYE241
YJ the pic should answer your question about the exhaust. However, at some point I will probably rerun the passenger side over the tcase and crossmember.
There are a number of outstanding items I still need to take care of to button up the install:
Things to acquire:
700r4/SYE241
YJ the pic should answer your question about the exhaust. However, at some point I will probably rerun the passenger side over the tcase and crossmember.
There are a number of outstanding items I still need to take care of to button up the install:
Things to acquire:
- Flange style with CV front driveshaft from an 89ish burb, truck, or blazer
- Speedo gear and mount off of same truck for the 241
- Shift linkage bracket for the 241 off the same truck
- Shift linkage rod for the 241 off the same truck
- Machine ~1/4" off of the rear 1350 yoke
- Shorten the rear drive shaft
- Build a shifter bracket that is at least half as cool as Greg's. I want to adapt the factory 205 shifter to the 241. I like the idea of building something that will mount to the tail of the tranny. I may try to figure out a cable shift option
- Install the torque converter lockout
- Install the TV cable. The cable Monster sent me was long enough, however the shield was about 4" too short. I just opened up a ticket with them about this. It looks like I can reuse the TH350 kickdown cable bracket
- Install trans cooler
- Install the rear crossmember
- Fab a new skid plate...the transfer case is resting on the factory one.
- Reinstall and adjust the B&M floor mounted cable shifter
- Fill all the fluids
- Bleed the brakes
Some light reading in case you haven't already been warned about the seriousness of the TV cable setting.
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php
It's NOT a simple kickdown cable like on a TH350, and the adjustment is critical or you'll burn up the new, expensive transmission.
Also, it might have been Bowtie Overdrives that developed a custom TV linkage that allows you to install their setup, floor the gas pedal once to establish full-travel and the TV cable automatically sets iteself based on that throttle range.
I don't know if that solution is "real science" or just a bad idea, but it sure seemed like an elegant solution compared to the traditional methods for setting the TV cable.
Your progress is making me jones for some more time in my own workshop....I've been traveling too much lately.
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php
It's NOT a simple kickdown cable like on a TH350, and the adjustment is critical or you'll burn up the new, expensive transmission.
Also, it might have been Bowtie Overdrives that developed a custom TV linkage that allows you to install their setup, floor the gas pedal once to establish full-travel and the TV cable automatically sets iteself based on that throttle range.
I don't know if that solution is "real science" or just a bad idea, but it sure seemed like an elegant solution compared to the traditional methods for setting the TV cable.
Your progress is making me jones for some more time in my own workshop....I've been traveling too much lately.
Some light reading in case you haven't already been warned about the seriousness of the TV cable setting.
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php
It's NOT a simple kickdown cable like on a TH350, and the adjustment is critical or you'll burn up the new, expensive transmission.
Also, it might have been Bowtie Overdrives that developed a custom TV linkage that allows you to install their setup, floor the gas pedal once to establish full-travel and the TV cable automatically sets iteself based on that throttle range.
I don't know if that solution is "real science" or just a bad idea, but it sure seemed like an elegant solution compared to the traditional methods for setting the TV cable.
Oh yeah...definately more involved than a kickdown cable. I'm having one of the guys at the shop walk me thru how to set it up so's I don't screw it up.
Good article. I'd seen it before cuz I was considering a Bowtie Overdrives tranny at one point. Bowler transmissions also has a similar TV cable set up...but both are high $$$.
Oh yeah...and to clarify the machining on the rear yoke... about 1/4" need to be taken out of the diameter not the length. For anyone doing this in the future, take the 1310 yoke that comes with the SYE kit to the machine shop along with the 1350 or 1410 yoke....it'll help explain what you're trying to do.
jimbug
1/2 ton status
Nice build! Cant wait to hear about how it drives on the road w/ od 
Mine made a huge difference.... I dropped 900 rpm at freeway speeds.... can do like 90 now if I could afford the gas
Mine made a huge difference.... I dropped 900 rpm at freeway speeds.... can do like 90 now if I could afford the gas
Turns out I was partially right on the machining required to put a 1350 or 1410 yoke onto the rear output of the SYE 241. 1/4" does need to be taken out of the length. I test fitted the yoke and there's not enough threads to put the lock nut on without shortening it. Reducing the diameter helps the yoke clear the oil seal.
I'll post up some pics when I get the yoke back.
projectfreedom
1/2 ton status
I had to do the same thing to my SYE. I took it to a machine shop and paid $25 for the work. I didn't think it was that bad. The build is looking good. I am finally making progress on mine.
UPDATE 10/7/08: Been working like crazy over the weekend and the last several evenings trying to get the truck driveable. There's a Show-N-Shine at the local 4WP this weekend. After getting the tranny and tcase into the rig it's been trying to wrap up all the little stuff associated with doing one of these builds. Here's where the story's at:
I had some new hydraulic hoses made and plumbed the new tranny cooler. I used some angle iron for a little extra strength and notched out the ends to serve as tabs. Came out pretty good, I think.
Next was wiring up the lockup for the torque converter. I went with a switch type, so's the control freak in me could decide when it would lock up. Mounted it on the shifter tower for now. Unless you know it's there, you don't really know it's there.
Put on the new Ruffstuff D44 diff cover. It's a great pic of my steering stabilizer, but a lousy pic of the cover
Order up some driveshaft bling-bling from Thrash Driveshaft (a local shop). I had a new front CV shaft made...it's got a Spicer CV for a bit more travel and durability. And decided to go CV on the rear. They took my old rear shaft, which was still in good shape, cut the end off and put a Spicer CV head on it. With the BBC454/700r4/SYE241, my rear shaft (34")actually came out 2" shorter than my front shaft (36"). One thing to note...since the spline count is the same for both the front and rear output shafts, you can put any flange from the front output on a 208 or 241 on the rear output. You'll still need to machine off 1/4", which is what I'll be doing to run the new CV rear.
Other miscellaneous stuff included bleeding out the brakes, retorque-ing my shackle bolts to 45ft/lbs (we originally put them on super tight with an impact....mostly cuz I didn't know any better), put the exhast back together, and put the tires on. This is the closest the truck has been to "put together" in several months.
The new shafts still have to be put in. But, I have a couple more tricks up my sleeve for the 241. One is dependant on a part I ordered from Kert...we'll see if it comes in tomorrow
. I'm also working thru a slick cable shift idea in my head...we'll see how that pans out. For now, I'll have to crawl under the truck to shift it. Oh well....
I had some new hydraulic hoses made and plumbed the new tranny cooler. I used some angle iron for a little extra strength and notched out the ends to serve as tabs. Came out pretty good, I think.
Next was wiring up the lockup for the torque converter. I went with a switch type, so's the control freak in me could decide when it would lock up. Mounted it on the shifter tower for now. Unless you know it's there, you don't really know it's there.
Put on the new Ruffstuff D44 diff cover. It's a great pic of my steering stabilizer, but a lousy pic of the cover
Order up some driveshaft bling-bling from Thrash Driveshaft (a local shop). I had a new front CV shaft made...it's got a Spicer CV for a bit more travel and durability. And decided to go CV on the rear. They took my old rear shaft, which was still in good shape, cut the end off and put a Spicer CV head on it. With the BBC454/700r4/SYE241, my rear shaft (34")actually came out 2" shorter than my front shaft (36"). One thing to note...since the spline count is the same for both the front and rear output shafts, you can put any flange from the front output on a 208 or 241 on the rear output. You'll still need to machine off 1/4", which is what I'll be doing to run the new CV rear.
Other miscellaneous stuff included bleeding out the brakes, retorque-ing my shackle bolts to 45ft/lbs (we originally put them on super tight with an impact....mostly cuz I didn't know any better), put the exhast back together, and put the tires on. This is the closest the truck has been to "put together" in several months.
The new shafts still have to be put in. But, I have a couple more tricks up my sleeve for the 241. One is dependant on a part I ordered from Kert...we'll see if it comes in tomorrow
. I'm also working thru a slick cable shift idea in my head...we'll see how that pans out. For now, I'll have to crawl under the truck to shift it. Oh well....
Looking good!!
Burt4x4
1 Ton First Gen
Comon AJ...get that thing DIRTY 
hahaha just messin with you!
hahaha just messin with you!
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
It's looking like it's coming together - bet your ready to be out driving again!
UPDATE 10/11/08: The 241 hangs fairly low in it's factory factory location, so I wanted to gain some clearance back. So, I ordered up a 241 clocking ring from Kert @ DIY4X.
I didn't want to clock the 241 completely flat since I still wanted to run my exhaust above the tcase. So I went with the first hole past stock. Here's where the case sat stock:
The install was super easy. Took me an hour total to take the case down, prep the surfaces, bolt up the ring, and rehang the case. Ended up with nice clearance. The bottom of the case is even with the bottom of the crossmember.
Went to install my front shaft and ran into problems. When the case is clocked up, the front output rotates further into the passenger side. After about an hour of grinding and beating on my collector flange, I managed to get the shaft in, with less than 1/16" of clearance.
I decided that just wasn't going to work well, so I ended up taking out the clocking ring.
BUT, when that was done, so was the truck. I finally got to drive it. The 700r4 shifts smoooooooth, and the overdrive is nice on the highway.
The whole reason for the compressed build was to get the truck ready for the 4WP October sale and Show n Shine event today. The truck took 1st place for Best Mods (paint, suspension, engine). Here's the poser trophy shot:
For everyone who's been asking about me flexing the truck some and getting it into the rocks...here ya go:
The Ruffstuff diff covers were awesome. Especially since I hung up the front diff on the last rock coming out.
I have a couple of small bugs to work out. I need to rotate my rear axle up to correct the pinion angle for the CV shaft...it's got some driveline vibes, and one of the outer axle seals on the front D44 decided to start leaking. But with the magnitude of the tranny build, I'm happy with how small the bugs are and how everything turned out.
I didn't want to clock the 241 completely flat since I still wanted to run my exhaust above the tcase. So I went with the first hole past stock. Here's where the case sat stock:
The install was super easy. Took me an hour total to take the case down, prep the surfaces, bolt up the ring, and rehang the case. Ended up with nice clearance. The bottom of the case is even with the bottom of the crossmember.
Went to install my front shaft and ran into problems. When the case is clocked up, the front output rotates further into the passenger side. After about an hour of grinding and beating on my collector flange, I managed to get the shaft in, with less than 1/16" of clearance.
I decided that just wasn't going to work well, so I ended up taking out the clocking ring.
BUT, when that was done, so was the truck. I finally got to drive it. The 700r4 shifts smoooooooth, and the overdrive is nice on the highway.
The whole reason for the compressed build was to get the truck ready for the 4WP October sale and Show n Shine event today. The truck took 1st place for Best Mods (paint, suspension, engine). Here's the poser trophy shot:
For everyone who's been asking about me flexing the truck some and getting it into the rocks...here ya go:
The Ruffstuff diff covers were awesome. Especially since I hung up the front diff on the last rock coming out.
I have a couple of small bugs to work out. I need to rotate my rear axle up to correct the pinion angle for the CV shaft...it's got some driveline vibes, and one of the outer axle seals on the front D44 decided to start leaking. But with the magnitude of the tranny build, I'm happy with how small the bugs are and how everything turned out.
aj was hung up pretty dang good on them covers too! look how torqued out the jeep was.
Yeah...I had to get winched off the rock by a Heep. I was trying to avoid mentioning that. He almost wasn't heavy enough. When he just tried to winch me off, his winch dragged him to me. He ended up fully locking in and in 4 low, was still slipping. But, we got the truck out with minimal carnage. The diff cover has a couple of small battle scars.
hey thats a chevy with a jeep skirt on.
makovai
1/2 ton status
congrts on the win....she look great.
i love the mcdonald ears in the one pic. (1st pic obijuan)
i love the mcdonald ears in the one pic. (1st pic obijuan)
