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2015.06.25 - UPDATE! - "EXHAUSTINGLY" SLOW GOING.....


I have to keep reminding myself of the $1400 I'm saving.... :doah:

I spent about 3 more hours cutting, sectioning and smoothing 3/4" long sleeve inserts for my "Header LEGOs" project. If there's any silver lining to the drudgery of this effort it's that I now have close to 40 segments (partially complete) to use for header modeling, and that SHOULD be enough to do the complete passenger side header design.

The small sections of 1-3/4" sleeve material (cut into 3/4" chunks and sanded smooth):

IMG_5095.jpg



Then a slice across the ring to remove about 1/4 - 3/8" of material so that it can be "sleeved" to the I.D. of the 1-7/8" header tubes....

IMG_5097.jpg



....to ultimately end up as part of an assembly like this:

IMG_5096.jpg



The two left-most bends are drilled for the plug welds, but do not have sleeves inserted yet. The two on the right are examples of what the final product looks like....

So yes, I still have to cut a bunch of different bends to match up to the three-dozen "rings"... so I'll probably cut a lot of 20* and 30* ones, a few straight ones, and maybe one or two 10* ones just for good measure. This part of the header project is pretty boring, but once I have a big playset of segments to mess around with, it's going to be loads of fun!!! :waytogo:



-G
 
How do you weld the last tube to the collector?

It's just a slip-fit into the head flange.

The exhaust ports are square, but for now I just tacked a temporary 1-7/8" round tube inside it. I didn't bother to dolly it to match the port shape, I'll do that once I'm building in the real stainless material.


-G
 
Looks like some nice forms for 40 mini burgers. :waytogo:





Yeah, the fat guy is hungry. :D


That sounds a lot better than the wasabi peas I'm pounding down right now.... :D

Mmmmm..... White Castle sliders.


-G
 
How do you weld the last tube to the collector?


It's just a slip-fit into the head flange.

The exhaust ports are square, but for now I just tacked a temporary 1-7/8" round tube inside it. I didn't bother to dolly it to match the port shape, I'll do that once I'm building in the real stainless material.


-G

Pretty sure he's talking about the COLLECTOR where all the tubes come together and not the FLANGE at the head. :D
 
Pretty sure he's talking about the COLLECTOR where all the tubes come together and not the FLANGE at the head. :D

Well.... Since I only have one runner installed so far, I'm still pretty far away from worrying about the collector and how it's welded. :D

-G
 
Have you started playing with the Dynasty on Stainless? I'm interested is reading about the learning process of welding all this together.
 
Have you started playing with the Dynasty on Stainless? I'm interested is reading about the learning process of welding all this together.


Not yet.

I still need to gather up a few small items to get ready for stainless TIG. I need to somehow modify my regulator and Argon tank so that I can have a 2nd line for running low-CFM purge gas inside the tubes.

I bought some of that chemical tungsten sharpener so if it works, I have that covered.

I'd still like to get a stubby gas lens kit for the Dynasty so I can run a longer stickout (for better access to the tight spots) but I don't know where to find one that fits my watercooled torch (W-250 / WP-20)

Then of course....practice, practice, practice!!!

I have the ability to do pulse-TIG, but the first time I tried to use it the results were worse than when I welded without it. At this early stage in my learning I think it's a case of "too many choices and settings" not being helpful. :D

Step one is to get the entire header modeled in mild-steel into a form that I like... then I need to place the more expensive order for the stainless tubing, the collectors, stainless V-bands, etc. That should be a pretty big hit on the wallet.... :eek1:




-G
 
I'm running a wp-9 and got my subby lens kit from radweldingsupplies.com

But don't take that as some type of endorsement... I'm still setting my Dynasty up. A buddy of mine who is a great welder has one and really likes it.
 
It's just a slip-fit into the head flange.

The exhaust ports are square, but for now I just tacked a temporary 1-7/8" round tube inside it. I didn't bother to dolly it to match the port shape, I'll do that once I'm building in the real stainless material.


-G

all four tubes are welded together before the collector is installed.

the picture of shannons truck uses tabs on both the header side and collector side and is either bolt or held on with springs.

that style is a pain in the balls once its been run and things have settle in. I had a 8 into 1 exhaust on the class 1 car i raced and built and it installed one tube at a time in sequence. then into a removable 8 into 1 collector. it sounds tits bang-o but was a nightmare to install.


Meant to quote dueling. my bads
 
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2015.06.22 - UPDATE! - VORTEXES OF SPEED..!!!!!





















IMG_5076.jpg






-G

I see what you want to do here, but a MUCH easier way is to try to make as many bends as possible out of pre-bent angles, like 45"s, and do the welding in the straight sections. Those headers you had hanging on the wall are a good example. Mandrel tubing is supposed to be consistent, ie round, but the reality is that the tubes sometimes flatten out a small amount when bent. It isn't a big deal usually, but can really cause problems when lots of your turns are welded through the bend. The key to a set of great looking headers is PERFECT fit up. These headers will be in everyones face, and you cant top off years of work with a less than perfect result. Given your OCD everywhere else, I suspect you will have hundreds and hundreds of hours in these and still not be happy with the results. I would reconsider and try to make them easier to build. YMMV
 
I see what you want to do here, but a MUCH easier way is to try to make as many bends as possible out of pre-bent angles, like 45"s, and do the welding in the straight sections. Those headers you had hanging on the wall are a good example. Mandrel tubing is supposed to be consistent, ie round, but the reality is that the tubes sometimes flatten out a small amount when bent. It isn't a big deal usually, but can really cause problems when lots of your turns are welded through the bend. The key to a set of great looking headers is PERFECT fit up. These headers will be in everyones face, and you cant top off years of work with a less than perfect result. Given your OCD everywhere else, I suspect you will have hundreds and hundreds of hours in these and still not be happy with the results. I would reconsider and try to make them easier to build. YMMV

He's just using these parts to visualize the result. Once that's done he's going to piece a new version together out of stainless.
 
He's just using these parts to visualize the result. Once that's done he's going to piece a new version together out of stainless.

Brian,

I think what he's saying though is to try to simplify the design so that I don't have to do so many custom offset angles which will be a lot tougher to weld.

At this point, it's still too early to even know WHAT is possible for a design given the space I'm working with... so I'll just keep plugging along until I can at least render SOMETHING, then I'll figure out if it's a design that is practical to build.


-G
 
Brian,

I think what he's saying though is to try to simplify the design so that I don't have to do so many custom offset angles which will be a lot tougher to weld.

At this point, it's still too early to even know WHAT is possible for a design given the space I'm working with... so I'll just keep plugging along until I can at least render SOMETHING, then I'll figure out if it's a design that is practical to build.

-G

I agree with him. Haha.
 

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