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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
Let me tell you about foam...

New cell from Speed Master. Came with foam in it. 87 octane broke the foam down and ruined everything fuel related. Plugged injectors to froze up fuel pump. I was pissed.
 
I ran foam In my stuff, never had a problem with it.

I don't think a large flap for the front section would be a good idea, baffles with holes will work best, and put a slight slope In it from front to rear.
 
I think your overthinking it....but Might as Well.
 
Shorten the front part and make it wider. Wont lose any volume and be a smaller design.

Not sure I would want to try and stuff exhaust tubing right next to the tank.
 
Keith has a point. When I had a plastic tank, my exhaust was about an inch away, maybe a bit more. It started to melt the plastic after a bit of use. A metal tank wouldn't melt, but it might heat the fuel. That might also be another vote for stainless over aluminum. Or maybe aluminum might conduct heat away better than stainless?
 
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Worst case just Ceramic coat the exhaust in and out.

Significantly reduces temps around exhaust

Stainless will be expensive, and heavy.
 
No matter what you build it out of the internal bracing and vibration isolation of the tank will help substantially in longevity.

Also you could air gap the exhaust. Or the tank. I would prefer the tank as its temp change will be less and less likely for the substrate to remove itself.

So aluminum tank. Air gap where the exhaust goes using something like wood and another thin sheet of aluminum. That should allow the exhaust to be very close with no adverse affects
 
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Chevy305 said:
I understand your reasoning for wanting maximum tank capacity but I'm thinking that front shallow section of the tank might be more trouble than it's worth. Like others have said cracking could prove to be a big problem as would controlling fuel sloshing. Plus with the room it would take up you could mount your air compressor and air tank in place of it. Just a thought I had.
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I looked at ViAir specs yesterday, and it looks like the compressors are pretty compact. They only seem to ever suggest a 2-gallon storage tank which is around 8" (round) by 19" IIRC. I think there's enough room underneath for that somewhere.


ClassicStyle said:
Worst case just Ceramic coat the exhaust in and out.
Significantly reduces temps around exhaust
Stainless will be expensive, and heavy.
Click to expand...


What sort of thickness would you suggest for aluminum sheet vs. stainless sheet for a project like this?

I should probably start pricing out the materials to see what sort of costs are involved.



-G
 
Come to think of it, really, if you amortize the build total over the years of work involved this is one of the cheaper builds on here :thinking:
 
truck-oholic said:
Money is no object for this build, why question costs now? :D
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It's only an object when it runs out... :haha:

Maybe I'll look at titanium sheet material as well. :)


So far I've found sheet material for:

T304 Stainless (Dull Finish)
  • 16GA (.060")
  • 14GA (.075")
  • 11GA (.120")

6061-T651 Aluminum
  • 3/16"
  • 1/4"

I must not be looking that the right kind of aluminum because it's WAY more expensive than the stainless... :dunno:



-G
 
You went way thicker on the aluminum 3/16 .188 vs .060-.120.

Would think 14ga would be plenty thick if you're going to be bracing it internally. Its more about structure for the strength. Hell if you want to be snazzy, you could bead roll it and make it even stiffer.
 
I wouldn't use 6061, it doesn't form real well. 5052 is better for that. I'd do .120 or maybe .188, anything thincker than that will take a tremendous amount of heat.

Stainless I'd do .120 as well, just so I had a some material thickness to try and avoid getting it to hot and creating a brittle joint. Considering the size of the tank and amount of weld it would have.
 
JoshHefnerX said:
You went way thicker on the aluminum 3/16 .188 vs .060-.120.

Would think 14ga would be plenty thick if you're going to be bracing it internally. Its more about structure for the strength. Hell if you want to be snazzy, you could bead roll it and make it even stiffer.
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@Deuling

Hmmm....... :thinking:

Who around here can beadroll stainless???


-G
 
Deuling said:
Someone said beadroll.... I can feelz it.
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Yeah....that was short-lived.....ClassicStyle suggested .120" thickness for the tank. Don't think that's gonna feel too happy going between your dies... :yikes:


-G
 
I had to get the hd gears for my mitler.

Ask me how. :haha:

You might be able to get away with a 14 gauge. My concern would be the heat, outside corner joints are easy to blow through, you going to be fighting the whole thing wanting to warp apart as it is.
 
ClassicStyle said:
I had to get the hd gears for my mitler.

Ask me how. :haha:

You might be able to get away with a 14 gauge. My concern would be the heat, outside corner joints are easy to blow through, you going to be fighting the whole thing wanting to warp apart as it is.
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If I build the tank out of 14GA it's going to weigh 77Lbs.... If I use 11GA it will be 123Lbs...

I'm trying to think of way to cut/form the individual pieces so that I'm not doing corner-to-corner joints when I weld. That's hard to do well, and I'm not skilled enough with TIG to pull that off (yet). I was thinking more like a 3/4" to 1" flange around the perimeter of each piece (pan brake) so that my welding could be more of a lap-joint than corner joint. Eric suggested that and it makes sense to me. Plus, I'd be doubling-up on the material thickness in the corners where everyone says the tank will want to blow-out from fuel sloshing / pressure anyway.... :thinking:

-G
 
Outside corner joints are much easier with aluminum imo. Warping is still a issue, the flange isn't a bad idea, Coukd make for some challenging breaks. I'll spend some time today thinking about how to cut and break the pieces to minimize the welding
 
ClassicStyle said:
Outside corner joints are much easier with aluminum imo. Warping is still a issue, the flange isn't a bad idea, Coukd make for some challenging breaks. I'll spend some time today thinking about how to cut and break the pieces to minimize the welding
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^^^^
This. Be willing to change the design to minimize welding.

Ive used mostly 12 gauge stainless but none of the tanks i have built were as large or so many different shapes.
 
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