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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
Code and regulations are always fun... making things way more complicated than they should be. I ran a stupid amount of gas line for my brewery out in CA and I'm no where near a master plumber. All they made me do was load or flow calcs which come off a building code chart and then a pressure test inspection. It had to stay at 10 or 15 psi for 24 hours. In CA the residential gas inspection is way less involved than commercial, I want to say its no pressure drop over 15 min or something. Dope the hell out of the threads and use a big wrench.
 
Sounds about right. I had a quote of 4K to run a line out to my shop ~65 feet. That included the lines, permit, risers valves etc.
 
ashman said:
Yup, you are allowed to do almost anything for yourself without any sort of license, just can't do it for someone else. Gas line is super easy, I've done several.
Just have it inspected when you are done and you'll save a ton and still be perfectly safe.
Click to expand...

Is there such a thing as a reverse-threaded fitting?

The biggest problem with gas lines is that they are all right-hand threaded, so you have to work in one direction to reassemble the piping. It would be SO much easier if they made a small stub that had right-hand threads on one side, and left-hand threads on the other. I could cut the existing pipes at both ends and almost literally “flip” the whole thing so that it runs along the two perimeter walls then reconnect the two ends with those stubs and be done with it.... :thinking:

-G
 
Yup, @Cili shows the right union. You can get that, or anything else you'll need at Home Depot. If you know the exact length of pipe you need, they'll even cut it to length and thread it for you. They sell the correct teflon tape for it as well. Natural gas in a home is not under high pressure, so it is not difficult to get it to seal.
 
ashman said:
Yup, @Cili shows the right union. You can get that, or anything else you'll need at Home Depot. If you know the exact length of pipe you need, they'll even cut it to length and thread it for you. They sell the correct teflon tape for it as well. Natural gas in a home is not under high pressure, so it is not difficult to get it to seal.
Click to expand...


Unfortunately, those unions are illegal if the pipe is going to be buried in a wall or floor. The first plumber who came out to quote the job told me that.

I did find examples online of connectors with both left and right-hand threads... so I've got that option as well. :)


-G
 
In Arizona they won’t sell you anything specific for gas line unless your licensed.

I understand why, but it’s a such a pain in the ass. Ha.
 
The hardware stores can put a reverse thread on a pipe can't they? It's been a while but I built a frame for chevy bench seat with pipe (I know call me a hack) it was easy. I'm pretty sure they reverse threaded a pipe so I could tighten both ends. I know this wasn't gas line, but it was very similar.
 
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Greg72 said:
Unfortunately, those unions are illegal if the pipe is going to be buried in a wall or floor. The first plumber who came out to quote the job told me that.

I did find examples online of connectors with both left and right-hand threads... so I've got that option as well. :)


-G
Click to expand...

Just put the union in the spot where it's not buried and accessible. The line I had run didn't require removing any walls or drywall. He just climbed under the house and ran it under the rafters. Doing drywall and stuff like that will obviously increase the cost. But you might look into the flexible hose stuff they used I think they even sell it at Home Depot. It was some fancy stuff that was required by code in US/Japan for earthquake prone areas.
 
Greg72 said:
Is there such a thing as a reverse-threaded fitting?
-G
Click to expand...
They are called left right couplings they should be legal wherever you want to put them. Even in walls. They usually consist of a left and right threaded coupler and a left and right threaded nipple maybe 6" long
 
While we're waiting to get the gas line issue resolved..... how about a few up-to-date photos to pass the time?

Installed 10 more LEDs on the single-bay side of the garage, and decided to remove the drywall from the large glue-lam beam since it was pretty beat up anyway. The natural wood looks pretty cool anyway IMHO...

IMG_1394.jpg



A view from the opposite side. The gas line is preventing me from installing the last few LED canisters.

IMG_1396.jpg



Up above the single-bay side the joists are only 2x6"... the original construction just laid all the wires from the outside panel on top of the joists which makes it impossible to put down a plywood floor.
It worked out OK, because the 2-bay side is all 2x10 construction, so by adding strategically notched boards I was able to match up all the floor heights... and get those wires out of view under a new floor.

IMG_1412.jpg



Another shot of the path of the house wiring... crossing from the outer wall sub-panel to the interior sub-panel on the common wall from garage to laundryroom entry.

IMG_1411.jpg



A peek-a-boo shot of the K5 as I work from above.... still waiting, sleeping, and gathering dust.

IMG_1417.jpg





-G
 
Greg72 said:
While we're waiting to get the gas line issue resolved..... how about a few up-to-date photos to pass the time?

Installed 10 more LEDs on the single-bay side of the garage, and decided to remove the drywall from the large glue-lam beam since it was pretty beat up anyway. The natural wood looks pretty cool anyway IMHO...

IMG_1394.jpg



A view from the opposite side. The gas line is preventing me from installing the last few LED canisters.

IMG_1396.jpg



Up above the single-bay side the joists are only 2x6"... the original construction just laid all the wires from the outside panel on top of the joists which makes it impossible to put down a plywood floor.
It worked out OK, because the 2-bay side is all 2x10 construction, so by adding strategically notched boards I was able to match up all the floor heights... and get those wires out of view under a new floor.

IMG_1412.jpg



Another shot of the path of the house wiring... crossing from the outer wall sub-panel to the interior sub-panel on the common wall from garage to laundryroom entry.

IMG_1411.jpg



A peek-a-boo shot of the K5 as I work from above.... still waiting, sleeping, and gathering dust.

IMG_1417.jpg





-G
Click to expand...
Can you access the gas line above the sheet rock from up top?
 
Get your permit, figure out how long it will take you to remove and replace. Set up inspector for the next day. Turn off gas at meter and light the stove to burn off most of gas. When flame goes out ,go to meter and undo the union connected to your pipe. If worried leave a burner on and pressure with air. cut pipe and start wrenching. This is what I did when I remodeled the kitchen.
 
2018.04.03 - UPDATE! - ATTIC WORK....

It's been a slow nightly slog in the workshop, getting the upper storage areas prepped so that the sprayfoam crew can come in about 2 weeks from now.

The main focus is on getting the 2x6 joists raised up to match the 2x10 joists on the 2-car side so that plywood can be run across all those areas, and also getting the rockwool insulation into the ceiling areas to help dampen-out the echo from powertools, and the upright air compressor. Still need to demo a small amount of drywall on the perimeter walls and run additional wiring for outlets and the mini-split AC unit (Probably a few hoses for that one that can be hidden in the walls too)

Here's the basic setup. Adding lumber with LiquidNails and screws to raise the deck height.... Roxul-type insulation and ready now for some plywood flooring.

IMG_1479.jpg



A nice surprise! The gas line that disappeared inside the common wall (into the house) actually HAS a fitting reasonably close to the garage wall... I had to remove a piece of plywood to reveal it, but the good news is that I don't have to cut and re-thread the existing pipe in situ.... a small 18" threaded pipe can replace the current 10' length and then the piping can be redirected around the perimeter walls instead of out in the center of the room.

IMG_1486_1.jpg



The long-view of the area. The area behind the yellow level is where I want to run the new sections of pipe. If I keep them tight to the corners (where the roof joists meet the floor) I won't lose any useful storage space.

IMG_1490.jpg



That's the plan. I'm looking forward to having some plywood up there soon. Spending 4 hours a night balancing on 1.5" wide ceiling joists is really beating me up.... :)


-G
 
My feet are cramping up just thinking about balancing on those beams for long periods of time.

Great looking work... as always.
 
Greg72 said:
2018.04.03 - UPDATE! - ATTIC WORK....

It's been a slow nightly slog in the workshop, getting the upper storage areas prepped so that the sprayfoam crew can come in about 2 weeks from now.

The main focus is on getting the 2x6 joists raised up to match the 2x10 joists on the 2-car side so that plywood can be run across all those areas, and also getting the rockwool insulation into the ceiling areas to help dampen-out the echo from powertools, and the upright air compressor. Still need to demo a small amount of drywall on the perimeter walls and run additional wiring for outlets and the mini-split AC unit (Probably a few hoses for that one that can be hidden in the walls too)

Here's the basic setup. Adding lumber with LiquidNails and screws to raise the deck height.... Roxul-type insulation and ready now for some plywood flooring.

IMG_1479.jpg



A nice surprise! The gas line that disappeared inside the common wall (into the house) actually HAS a fitting reasonably close to the garage wall... I had to remove a piece of plywood to reveal it, but the good news is that I don't have to cut and re-thread the existing pipe in situ.... a small 18" threaded pipe can replace the current 10' length and then the piping can be redirected around the perimeter walls instead of out in the center of the room.

IMG_1486_1.jpg



The long-view of the area. The area behind the yellow level is where I want to run the new sections of pipe. If I keep them tight to the corners (where the roof joists meet the floor) I won't lose any useful storage space.

IMG_1490.jpg



That's the plan. I'm looking forward to having some plywood up there soon. Spending 4 hours a night balancing on 1.5" wide ceiling joists is really beating me up.... :)


-G
Click to expand...


I see twists and not perfectly straight runs of romex. I thought those things ate at your soul greg.
 
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