'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

[Greg72]

I'll answer all the new questions in one fell swoop here:

Yes, you are looking at one big cavity hiding behind the rocker panel. My guess is that you're a later-model K5 guy and haven't spend much time underneath the '69 - '72 (or maybe even '73 - '75 Blazers? For the factory to be able to build a convertible truck, they needed to support the body somehow so that the entire thing wouldn't fold in half when the doors were opened. There is a massive torsion box on both sides to accomplish this. Dimensions are probably 14" Wide and 40" Long. Yes... if you remove the end caps, it would be easy to hide stuff in there. Given how rusty most of these trucks are though, your "goodies" would probably fall out through a rust hole before arriving at their destination.

I'm going to do all the rust repairs completely, but I'm not putting those torsion boxes back in. I've decided to build something more like a tube chassis underneath that will be tied to a comprehensive rollcage above. It will achieve the same effect and will make the whole chassis much stiffer all around.

Kurt,

If there's a way to order up those small patch pieces I need for the four bolts area without paying a ton for shipping....then mail them to me in a small envelope or whatever I'd be happy to re-imburse you. Let me know.

Also, with respect to the DOM.....if you can get either .120" or .125 wall domestic 1.75" DOM (not imported Chinese stuff) I'd be curious to hear a price....I'd probably buy at least 200 feet to start with. I'm going to also want to get some rectangular stuff too (maybe 2" x 3", or 2" x 4") in .120 or .125" wall thicknesses also. Please let me know!


I'm trying to get a price on 18GA sheet metal here locally.....that's going to become important to have before too much longer also.

The other update I forgot to mention is that I contacted 2020 Software and bought a copy of their BendTech Pro software. It's going to take a few hours to understand how to use it, but I believe it will make the chassis design much faster, easier and probably a lot more elegant looking.

 

[vtblazer]

The other update I forgot to mention is that I contacted 2020 Software and bought a copy of their BendTech Pro software. It's going to take a few hours to understand how to use it, but I believe it will make the chassis design much faster, easier and probably a lot more elegant looking.

Cool, let practice with it on mine.


I'll order two lower 'A' pillar sections today for ya.

 

[GotBoykins]

Nice work Greg, I felt a little throw up in my throat looking at those rust pics. I would rather take a arse whooping than go through that again. Good luck

 

[4X4HIGH]

Damn Greg, you're an animal. Can't wait to see some more progress pics. Sure wish we were closer and i could be giving you a hand with the metal work like old times.

 

[bp71k5]

Say Greg, it looks like your 4-bolts area is almost identical to mine. Even down to the galvanized steel patch someone tried out. Although mine wasn't even galvanized.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54050&page=2

With your door hinge brace, it might actually be easier to just patch the panel into the lower half under the hinges if the metal above it is solid. You're right about the parts only being a 90% good fit, especially on that pillar patch. If you leave the hinge bolt area in place, this would allow you to massage the new panel to match the old area easier.

The other big problem was the outer rockers. Mine (and some others here) are 1/4"- 1/2" short in their thickness. (This means the seam doesn't line up with the bottom of the doors if you match up all the other areas). Make sure to check that before welding it in permanently. I had to shim my fenders and door back and shim the rocker out to help compensate.

When I do the other side, I plan to match up the rocker to the door and fenders and then use that truck jamb patch panel you got to bridge it back to the cab.

 

[Greg72]

Yes, I'm thinking that the more I can preserve the "Good" metal in the a-pillar, the more I'll maintain the structural integrity of the original tub.

I'm also trying to come up with a way to replace parts one at a time, so that I can use the existing parts as an "index" for holes and overall dimensions, etc.

I'd heard that complaint before about the outer rockers, thanks for the reminder. It will be a while before I reach that point in the restoration though....

 

[bp71k5]

It will a while before I reach that point in the restoration though

Yea, if you're not going to use rocker boxes anymore, it might not be as big a deal for while. (You know they make repro boxes right?)

Just keep them handy when your starting the inner rocker panels (or whatever's replacing them) to test fit and make sure they match the body lines. The outer rocker is tough to "massage" and will be easier if you can tweak the inner stuff instead.

 

[Greg72]

If you're describing what I think you are it's that the rocker follows the contour coming off the bottom of the door (creating a nice flowing curve) all the way under until it reaches the pinched seam on the underside.

From what I've read, sometimes the rocker doesn't pick up that door correctly. It's set too far in (probably on the door handle side) and doesn't line up with the lower door contour, or the rear quarter panel lower curve either.

I have seen guys cut a long relief slice down that outer rocker and then bend it out to the correct position. This creates a really long, thin pie-sliced gap in the rocker which they then have to fabricate a filler piece for.

Is that the effect you're talking about....or something else?



oh.....and this looks to be my 8000th post. PAD!

 

[bp71k5]

Yes, that's what I'm meaning to say. My idea was to try and avoid that long cut\patch process by compensating for the problem in the inner rocker area instead of the "cosmetic" outer rocker.

But now that I'm looking at my pictures, that idea might be difficult too because the outer rocker has that area that turns up at the backand front of the door. If you moved the inner rocker out any, it could make that turn-up area not line up either.

In any case, I was suggesting doing as much temporary fitting with the door as possible before welding it up tight. I used my hardtop as a brace to keep things straight and allowed me to test fit the door during the process. Even then it didn't turn out perfect.

 

[vtblazer]

Yea, if you're not going to use rocker boxes anymore, it might not be as big a deal for while. (You know they make repro boxes right?)

Just keep them handy when your starting the inner rocker panels (or whatever's replacing them) to test fit and make sure they match the body lines. The outer rocker is tough to "massage" and will be easier if you can tweak the inner stuff instead.

The inner rocker Greg has at the shop has all 6 bolt holes already in it as well as the curved section between the floor and the outer rocker.
It bolts to the 4 holes up front and the two holes in the rear, allowing for a correct fit the first time.

It's the outer rocker that will require being test fit and tacked while the door is in place, aligned and closed.

Not to hi-jack but look what I found today...

 

[Greg72]

Not to hi-jack but look what I found today...

Thanks anyway Kurt.....but I think I'll wait for the reproduction parts instead!

If you need any moral support, you know where to find us.

 

[bigblock72]

Are you going to be building a rollcage? If you are doing a fairly stout cage then there is no reason to keep the stock rocker boxes. The cage will more than make up for the rigidity lost from removing those nasty boxes.

I generally only use the GM rocker panels which eliminates a lot of the fitting nightmares associated with aftermarket parts.

Your blaze looks pretty clean, you keep saying how rusty it is and I just don't see it. I can show you pics of Blazers I've saved that would scare you to death.

Looking good, keep up the progress.

 

[bp71k5]

Sorry to hijack, but I just ordered some original GM rockers from GMPD and we'll see if they fit any better. The dealer wanted $150+tax each.

 

[Greg72]

Are you going to be building a rollcage? If you are doing a fairly stout cage then there is no reason to keep the stock rocker boxes. The cage will more than make up for the rigidity lost from removing those nasty boxes.

Looking good, keep up the progress.

Yep....full tube chassis. Here's a partial drawing, I just got this software so I've only got a couple hours of experience with it so far:

That's basically the b-pillar and most of the central items of the chassis....I still need to transfer the rear of the cage and the a-pillar details from my other models into this program, and then do some new design work on the front engine cradle/ front shock areas.

I can already tell that I'm going to like this program....being able to rotate the entire thing in a 3D rendering really helps the creative process.

 

[bigblock72]

Wow!! That's pretty cool, I need to buy myself Bendtech Pro. Would have saved a lot of time with my cage project.

I like the design so far, will it completely replace the original frame?

I wish you weren't so far away I'd like to come see some of this stuff in person, especially when it comes time to start bending tube.

 

[Greg72]

Correct.

No more frame.... and the bellypan will be completely flat and even with the lower rocker seam all the way across the underside of the truck from the passenger side to the driver side. Basically, it's going to be one huge flat skidplate under there.

It's going to take a lot of work, since the transfercase has to come up about 6 - 8" from stock....the center tunnel is going to look quite a bit different by the time this is all completed.

 

[DSA]

I'll answer all the new questions in one fell swoop here:

Yes, you are looking at one big cavity hiding behind the rocker panel. My guess is that you're a later-model K5 guy and haven't spend much time underneath the '69 - '72 (or maybe even '73 - '75 Blazers? For the factory to be able to build a convertible truck, they needed to support the body somehow so that the entire thing wouldn't fold in half when the doors were opened. There is a massive torsion box on both sides to accomplish this. Dimensions are probably 14" Wide and 40" Long. Yes... if you remove the end caps, it would be easy to hide stuff in there. Given how rusty most of these trucks are though, your "goodies" would probably fall out through a rust hole before arriving at their destination.

Interesting. You are quite right, I haven't messed with anything older than an '83. But I do have a craving for the 1st generation Blazers/trucks, so I'm always on the lookout.

So, what's the overall plan/scheme with this project? Multi-purpose crawler?

 

[Greg72]

So, what's the overall plan/scheme with this project? Multi-purpose crawler?

It's going to be a "Transformer" vehicle..... it will wear conventional 1st Gen bodywork, and have a traditional interior when street-driven. For wheeling, I will remove all the exterior body panels to reveal a more tapered tube-buggy style vehicle. Less chance of damage on narrower trails, where rocks or trees always seem to jump out and grab the rear quarterpanels or front hood corners.

Oh yes, it will also fold up and become a pocketknife so I can carry it around with me....

 

[AJs72K5]

Oh yes, it will also fold up and become a pocketknife so I can carry it around with me....

That's awesome! You need to incorporate a Swiss Army logo or weld a spork to the cage.

 

[blazin_blazer]

whats that you say?

I'll most likely just sell the '69K5 and use that money to help complete this one.

what kind of shape is the '69 in? is this just a passing thought or are ya going to sell it? i have 2 '69's already, but i believe both are in worse shape than the '72 your building and you're scaring the bejezus outta me, wondering if this is something i want to tackle or not!. 1 is just a tub, the other is sitting on a mangled frame! whats your plans for the 72 frame, since you are going w/ full tube chasis?

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