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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
Greg72 said:
You know.... :thinking:

I COULD actually use the cherry-picker to lift up the front end of the frame and roll the whole thing right out of the garage onto the driveway now that the rear axle rolls on it's own..... :whistle:

If I had the front winch already installed, it would be easy to pull it back into the garage when I was done for the day. (just hook it up to the back wall of the shop and hit the switch!) It would be fun to actually work outdoors when the weather was nice. And it would be great to get some photos with a different background for a change too.

-G
Click to expand...

plus it would give you a chance to clean really well under the truck.
thats my favorite part of making progress on my build, is the chance to clean all the loose dirt and leaves off my driveway.

portals bring forth thine sexay. carry on.
 
Greg72 said:
And it would be great to get some photos with a different background for a change too.
Click to expand...

The DrEmu style of rig photography:

Here's the truck not running facing the back fence.

Here's the truck not running, facing the side fence.

Here's the truck not running, facing sideways while the other truck is not running beside it.

Here's the truck briefly running, in the garage, then broken again :haha:

And you have the excuse of it actually being a work in progress :D

-- A
 
Small updates.....

As you guys who read the "Kitchen Build" thread in the Lounge already know, there was no real shop time for truck-related stuff this weekend but I do have a few random pieces of info to share to tide everyone over.

Removal of 2" Body Mount Pucks - I overlooked one small item during the build of the rear suspension frame-side link mounts. While I'd remembered to address the interferences of the upper link to the #3 body mount position, I didn't see the interference that was created on the #2 spot when I built my "Godzilla Mounts" for those upper links.

IMG_2568e.jpg


The solution will be relatively simple. I'll re-use the original through-hole for the mount, but I will need to clip about 2" off the factory vertical "c channel" structure to allow me to move the body down without interference. Once it's in place I will need to fab up a simple body mount hanger off the side of the Godzilla bracket on each side so that Mount #2 is supported correctly again.

Initally, I thought I would move this entire mount "inboard" of the framerail but upon mature reflection that doesn't seem like the smartest solution anymore. I'd really like to keep those inner framerails open for exhaust routing, so plopping a body mount bracket there is a waste of valuable space.

Off-the-Jackstands Initiative - Having the rear of the truck sitting under it's own weight felt really good. Now I'd like to have a way to roll the entire truck out of the garage from time to time... or at least partially outside to give me more working room in the shop area. I bought two nice 8" casters from eBay (the same place I got the ones for my engine run stand). Cast iron wheel with a hard poly tread... and good for 1100Lbs each. With a few scraps of box tubing it won't take long to get the front end of the truck on those casters and then roll the whole truck out into the sunshine. :D

Steath Hubcaps - I'll be honest, I don't really like the looks of the H2 wheels on my truck at all. The only benefit was that the were the correct 17" diameter I needed (to clear the massive brakes) and they have a boatload of backspacing (5.56")....and they were cheap to buy off eBay. I have a nice set of factory hubcaps, so I had an idea to mount them onto the H2 wheel since this will help to hide almost all of the CTIS airlines and fittings. I thought that if I painted the wheels in an original factory white color it might actually take some of the modern "edge" away from the wheels and make them look a bit more correct for the age of the vehicle...??? :thinking: What do you think?

IMG_2607.jpg


Ideally, I'd like to find a company that can build me a custom steel wheel that holds that hubcap, has 8-Lugs and lots of backspacing. But if this paint / hubcap experiment turns out well, I may not be in much of a rush to replace the H2's after all.


-G
 
Next time I load up the Graco with cabinet white paint, maybe I should shoot one of these wheels just to see how it would look? :haha:


-G
 
They might look cool in white with the caps. Give some of that old school look back to the rig.

I know I'm a 1% on not liking these wheels, specially on a 1st Gen.
 
Paint Codes - Reference for later:

GM code 521 (Chevy Truck White)

GM Code = WA5111
Ditzler PPG = 2185
DuPont = 817A, 817D, 817L


-G
 
I look at H2's and think, "eh, that's a pretty standard style, nothing crazy, I SHOULD like that"

but every time I see em on something, there's just something about em I don't like...

understandable why people run em, just something about the look I'm not crazy about...
 
ryoken said:
I look at H2's and think, "eh, that's a pretty standard style, nothing crazy, I SHOULD like that"

but every time I see em on something, there's just something about em I don't like...

understandable why people run em, just something about the look I'm not crazy about...
Click to expand...


I'm with you Paul... don't like 'em one bit. My theory is that even though they seem "generic" enough, they are still very recognizable as the "Hummer H2" wheel design, even with the centercap removed. Maybe it's the fact that it's a 7-spoke wheel instead of something more popular like a 5 or 6 spoke? :dunno:

In any case, I'll be happier if I can disguise them as much as possible. I even thought there might be a way to buy a set of 17" Mooneyes discs, flip them backwards and paint them white... Attach the Chevy hubcap to the center and mount them up!!! :waytogo:

The wheels are such an important part of the "look" of the entire vehicle that it's going to be hard to just say "meh....good enough" and leave the H2s on there as my final solution. Obviously, I have plenty of time to figure out a solution but I guess it's important to let everyone who's reading this thread know that these wheels are not my "choice" of wheels....they are simply a placeholder for something else later on.


-G
 
yup.. a stopgap..... after some of the stuff/costs in this build, a set of custom steelies will be no big deal down the road...
 
Foam core is commonly used for framing pictures, so a local framing shop should have it. Check hobby stores or office supply places (Staples, etc) too.

-G
 
While OfficeMax/Depot/whatever should have foamcore, craft or maybe even fabric stores, i.e. those that cater to the ladies or the artsy types, will have the stuff in all manner of size/colors. Find you a woman with a hotmelt glue gun in the circle of friends/family and they'll know.

I have a "Joann Fabric" local to me, the place just ooooozes estrogen and I always feel weird going in there without a woman to shield me, but they have felt and foam core and all manner of project-y things hiding inside.

-- A
 
I think the hubcap won't be that hard to adapt to the stock H2 hubcap. A few experiments I did seemed to work well, and will have the same holding power as the factory hubcap.

The idea of being able to almost completely hide the high-tech CTIS airlines will be a plus for me as well. As it stands now, the wheels are too modern for the rest of the truck..... stainless airlines, etc would really throw the look "off"... IMHO.


-G
 
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