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wow

I used to say "what would Greg do?" but now... that is so not an opption for me:haha:

Awesome build Greg!
 
I especially like the curved tranny tunnel solution. It looks way nice and it even has a first-gen "stockish" appearance.

The driveshaft solution also looks pretty cool. I'm curious whether you were able to get the same angle on all three ujoints or whether it even matters for a front shaft?
 
There hasn't been much active discussion on this thread in the past few weeks, it may just be that this type of progress is too tedious to be interesting to the majority of subscribers?? :dunno: I'll keep posting stuff up if people want to see it, but it might make more sense to wait until something more "significant" happens...


Don't be such a cocktease. Keep those pics coming as I need my daily fix.
 
2008.08.26 - UPDATE! - TEDIOUS BUT NECESSARY...

Not the most sexy update, but here's what I'm doing these days....

I didn't have any time this weekend to play in the garage, so tonight I finally started cleaning up the "blue cover" area and blending it in with the rest of the tunnel cover.

DSC01207.jpg


At some point, this will have to bolt-down, so I added a couple of rails that will be drilled to use factory mounting bolts around the entire perimeter...

DSC01210.jpg


Here I'm grafting the original rails around the outside of the cover, this will allow me to use the factory bolts, AND it still preserves the groove where the black sealing caulking goes too...

DSC01213.jpg


This step is quite tedious. Lots of stitch-welds to lock everything down, and an awful lot of time on small details to make things look right. Overall, I am still quite happy with the progress and the overall look of this cover. It's almost a shame that it will eventually be covered with Line-X and carpeting!!! :doah:



:usaflag:
 
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Keep up the good work Greg. I think maybe you should make a few of these covers for the next couple guys wanting to do the same set-up as you. :haha:

Seriously, i logon each morning and look for any progress reports on this build. Some days i don't have much work and tend to have more internet time and i need to have something new to keep me amused until the next job comes in to work on.
 
I think maybe you should make a few of these covers for the next couple guys wanting to do the same set-up as you. :haha:


Funny man! :D Actually, I'm willing to bet that once I get this whole truck finished I'd be able to sell it in the "Complete Vehicles" forum and easily get between $4000 and $4500 for it!!! :deal: :haha:


BlazerBash 2010 is just around the corner, and I intend to be there with this truck.

:usaflag:
 
Do you know the phrase "clown truck" or "clown car"? That's when a truck or car has numerous donor panels of multiple colors. Well, you've got a "clown floor" my friend! :D

I can't wait to see the floor tunnel done, lots of ingenuity going on!
 
2008.08.27 - UPDATE! - TUNNELING TO VICTORY!

More work tonight on the tunnel...specifically the fitment and installation of the factory mounting flange. I wasn't going to be satisfied using a straight section of rail after going to all that trouble to make the cover swoopy and curvaceous, so I gave the lower flange the same "sliced" treatment.

DSC01215.jpg


A couple hours later after some careful fitting and lots of small tack welds.

DSC01217.jpg


The hours dragged on as I filled in all those slices one tackweld at a time.... I found it was easier to pull the cover out for this step, since I wanted to avoid welding the flange to the floor accidentally. I actually did SO much welding today, that I ran out of Ar/Co2 mix and had to load up another 80# bottle!! :yikes:


DSC01218.jpg


Once the flange was completed and smoothed out, I re-installed the cover into the truck and decided to tackle something that had been bugging me for a while. I pulled up a fresh sheet of 18GA steel, cut out a fresh cover and set it down on top of the old one...

DSC01223.jpg


Over time, as I'd been working with SO many individual tranny covers and so many seams...the areas that were supposed to be FLAT, were quite wavy and it would have taken forever to try to hammer it all out and make it straight again. It seemed like a smarter (and stronger) move to simply cut out a single large sheetmetal patch to replace all the problem areas at once.

Once I had the new metal in position, I tacked it down in a few spots and then used it as a guide for my 4-1/2" cutoff wheel. With practice, you can learn to "feel" the edge of the top panel against the cutoff wheel and it will steer the blade along just where it needs to go. The result is a cleaner cut than trying to freehand across a Sharpie line, and the hole ends up being a perfectly fitted match to the top patch panel. Live and learn.... :wink1:

Here's the result once I finished all the cutting:

DSC01225.jpg


A different angle that shows the finish-quality of the corner I've put so many hours into...

DSC01228.jpg


Here's the comparison of the "Frankenstein" center section vs. the clean new one. The photos don't really show the amount of warpage in the original panel, but I can assure you it's a real mess compared to the new, very flat one.

DSC01231.jpg


You will notice that I had to add one crease to the new panel as well to account for the upswept area as the tunnel transitions from the seating area to the transmission area.

The side-benefit of removing such a large section of the cover is that I now have easy access to start building templates for the bracing that will go underneath the pan. The curves add some decent rigidity to the cover, but it still moves around quite a bit..... and it would certainly NOT hold the weight of anyone standing on it to climb into the backseat area.

That's all for now... more updates this weekend. :saweet:


:usaflag:
 
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Man, the more I watch this thread I am truly impressed with the amount of time you have spent on it. Most people today want instant gratification and rather than spend the necessary time they would rather pay someone else to do it. My hat goes off to ya man! Great Job!:bow:
 
Do you have a bead roller machine that puts a bead in a sheet of metal to add rigidity and strength like you sometimes see in floor pans?
 
Nope....nothing like that. Are you thinking for the floor itself or for the tunnel braces? :dunno:

Last Christmas I received a set of flare-hole dies though. I just found out a few minutes ago that 18GA can easily be flared using a simple nut & bolt and a couple of wrenches... :saweet:

You can expect to see my "flare hole debut" when I post the next update this weekend.... [/cliffhanger]


:usaflag:
 
I like the cutout on the right for the header to poke through. I know that'll get covered, but I was thinking it'd be cool to see the headers like that through the floor when it's done.

Nice work!
 
Yeah, it's funny how headers don't clear as well when the engine sits 3" deeper into the firewall than ususal. :)

What I can't understand is how the driver's side header flange is so poorly positioned that it blocks me from spinning on an oil filter. :mad:


:usaflag:
 
Yeah, it's funny how headers don't clear as well when the engine sits 3" deeper into the firewall than ususal. :)

What I can't understand is how the driver's side header flange is so poorly positioned that it blocks me from spinning on an oil filter. :mad:


:usaflag:
Remote filter mount?
 
Remote filter mount?

FAIL

:D


Nope, a badly designed header is not going to dictate a new filtering system. If I can't cut/modify the header to clear properly, it's getting replaced with something that will... Gotta love my OCD sometimes. :wink1:

Your build is looking good, and moving along quickly (relatively speaking)...
 
FAIL

:D


Nope, a badly designed header is not going to dictate a new filtering system. If I can't cut/modify the header to clear properly, it's getting replaced with something that will... Gotta love my OCD sometimes. :wink1:

Your build is looking good, and moving along quickly (relatively speaking)...
Yeah, OCD has its ups and downs.

Oh, and thanks Greg, yours is looking good aswell, that tunnel still amazes me :bow:
 
I found with the Dynomax headers I'm using on my 69's bbc I have to use the short style filter. I can get you the number if you want, but any good parts store should know which one it is.
 
I have been thinking about using a set of Flow-tech 3/4 length headers, (for a 1st gen camaro), on my blazer for years. They don't come down NEARLY as much because the camaro owners are worried about ground clearance as well. Just for a different reason.

Later,
Buddy
 
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