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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
Shoot I had to go back and reread a couple of pages on this tread about that radiator. That what I get for just looking for pictures whenever this thread gets updated.

DSC01658.jpg


So, how much did that bad boy set you back?
 
About twelve-hun, including the overflow tank....

A lot cheaper than your 2" headers! :D


Insanely nice welds and finish quality, and what appears to be all stainless fasteners too...

:usaflag:
 
Greg72 said:
About twelve-hun, including the overflow tank....

A lot cheaper than your 2" headers! :D


Insanely nice welds and finish quality, and what appears to be all stainless fasteners too...

:usaflag:
Click to expand...
Actually, I’ve double-checked my credit card statement. The headers came out to over $1150. I think he gave me a discount for one header not fitting right, and I think if I were going to get them coated, it would have cost over two grand. Sorry for misleading you.
I need to up-date that thread.

Anyway, I've looking to installing electric fans on my blazer and upgrading my radiator. When I saw your set-up, I knew what is on my wish list. To bad I'm broke because of those headers I got.
 
Have you given 12V to the fans and brought them to life or are you afraid the radiator might start flying around the shop?
 
LVJimmy said:
Have you given 12V to the fans and brought them to life or are you afraid the radiator might start flying around the shop?
Click to expand...

I hadn't thought about that...maybe I could wire them backwards and push the truck right out onto the driveway! :haha:

:usaflag:
 
Greg72 said:
About twelve-hun, including the overflow tank....

A lot cheaper than your 2" headers! :D


Insanely nice welds and finish quality, and what appears to be all stainless fasteners too...

:usaflag:
Click to expand...

Holy crap. :yikes: Back in my race car days i paid just a little over 500.00 for a Griffin double pass radiator. I know you also bought fans with a custom shroud but damn that doesn't add an extra 700.00 IMO. I also know there is inflation over the years but i still don't see that going up that high either. Oh well, it is what it is and if you're happy with it at that price AND it does the job it is intended to do then that's all that matters.
 
You can't really compare two different brands, using two different assembly methods and come to any sort of conclusion about cost vs. value for money.

Cheaper doesn't mean "better" any more than "more expensive" does... in the end, everyone must do their own research and pick where they want to be on the cost/performance scale. :deal:




:usaflag:
 
2009.07.12 - UPDATE! - MAN, THIS TAKES FOREVER...

Setting the first bar and getting it level, plumb, square and aligned in all dimensions is tedious. But now that the first one is done, everything else that builds from it should go a lot easier:


On to today's pics:

Front engine hoop with two new downbars tied to the frame near the original radiator support bracketry...

DSC01665.jpg


Test fitting the radiator with a similar "setback" to the engine (about 3" behind the factory mounts)

DSC01670.jpg


Single headlight aesthetics test... :wink1:

DSC01668.jpg


The furthest away I can get to take an "overall" shot...

DSC01674.jpg



Not bad so far. It's a good feeling watching the front end taking shape.....FINALLY! :saweet:


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sweet.... are you doing any kinda removable tie bar over the motor? shock to shock kinda thing?
 
Yeah....some kind of connector, but I haven't decided which way to do it. It will have to be "structural yet snazzy"...

Scotty, thanks....now get back to the driveway and get your bumper going. I'm not the only one with a build thread around here. :deal:


:usaflag:
 
Is the radiator setback to keep the same distance from the front of the engine? With electric fans, I'm curious why that's important?
 
Greg, think you can bend some tubes to match the Rancho triple shock hoops? Pretty tight tolerances and I have a pair of brackets here to take measurements from.
 
Greg72 said:
Yeah....some kind of connector, but I haven't decided which way to do it. It will have to be "structural yet snazzy"...

Scotty, thanks....now get back to the driveway and get your bumper going. I'm not the only one with a build thread around here. :deal:


:usaflag:
Click to expand...
your right, I just wish I had some snazzy fab work to add to my thread :o

lookin great Greg!
 
bp71k5 said:
Is the radiator setback to keep the same distance from the front of the engine? With electric fans, I'm curious why that's important?
Click to expand...


There's really no benefit to having the radiator sticking way out on those original mounts with the engine set back deeper...just wasted space (engine-to-radiator gaps) and approach angle.

PLUS:

With the radiator moved back, there is enough room in front of it to fit a WARN 9.5si (1-piece case) and still have it hide completely behind the factory grille/bumper. There was a LOT of new space created in that area when the radiator got moved back... :waytogo:



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Greg, i think what Brian meant was since you moved the engine back 3" did you also move the radiator back 3" maintaining the same distance from the engine to the radiator.
 
That's what I was asking, but I was more curious why than the actual distance. Fitting a winch in that space is a perfectly valid answer. :) I hadn't thought of that.
 
The reason he moved it back was when he goes wheeling he will be removing the sheet metal and having moved the radiator back will give a better approach angle.

You did see his headlight mounted off the front tube didn't you?
 
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I understand the reason now. Are you going to cut the frame back as well. I would think that would be the first thing to affect approach angle now?

Oh yea, looking cool!
 
I may cut the frame back a bit more than it already is, but I need to be careful that I still leave enough there for the winch mount, and for the front pivot points for the tilt-front end.

The truck never had bad approach angles with the stock bumper and the axle pushed forward 1"... but obviously with all the front sheetmetal and grille removed it will get a LOT better. The amount of extra visibility to the front corners is amazing now, it's really obvious how much your vision gets blocked by the sheetmetal corners of the factory front clip.


:usaflag:
 
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