GRINCH
1/2 ton status
I'm impressed 
.
That's a shiitt load of work in just a few hours.
.That's a shiitt load of work in just a few hours.
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Greg, that's coming along nicely. Looks like Kurt has taken the place of me on the east coast. 
90k5blaze...You should ask Greg about the time when he was still living here in California and what we got accomplished just a day before he DROVE to Moab in the blazer.
90k5blaze...You should ask Greg about the time when he was still living here in California and what we got accomplished just a day before he DROVE to Moab in the blazer.
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
90k5blaze...You should ask Greg about the time when he was still living here in California and what we got accomplished just a day before he DROVE to Moab in the blazer.
I may be mistaken, but I think I remember reading about that.
Greg, Details????
That's exactly what I need to get my build done. So when is everyone showing up? I spent all weekend trying to get my motor and tranny mocked up. Didn't get very far. I will post an update on my build post this week. Also not happy with the lift I choose nor how high it is.
You'll have the search the Garage forums for my posts in the 2002 timeframe (probably starting around July 2002)... I did a daily coundown to Moab thread and documented all the upgrades (D60 crossover, new engine, 38s, etc).
Unfortunately, all of the photo links are probably broken at this point but the text will help convey the sheer panic of the final 3 weeks leading up to our departure to Moab in a completely untested, unsorted truck.
Unfortunately, all of the photo links are probably broken at this point but the text will help convey the sheer panic of the final 3 weeks leading up to our departure to Moab in a completely untested, unsorted truck.
2009.11.19 - UPDATE! - YES, IT'S RYOKEN GREEN...
I'll admit it, even though at times it seems like I'm the one giving out info quite often, I still learn a LOT from the other members of CK5... and today's pics will illustrate that point in vivid color.
Since last weekend when Kurt and I swapped out the frame, I'd been thinking about a way to recycle at least a part of the old "discarded" frame... the idea has been brewing for a few days, so I decided to take action at start getting ready to salvage the parts I needed.
I pulled the frame into the shop and hung it from the cherry picker to make it a bit easier to work on cutting out all the factory rivets...
There are a LOT of them! I have a pretty decent system, but getting them off cleanly is still tedious. After a couple hours I had one of the framerails completely stripped of tubing, wiring and rivets and down to the bare essentials.
After a few MORE hours, I had the other side completed too. Here is a representative shot of just how many small parts are normally riveted to the frame.... and this doesn't even include a couple of the factory crossmembers that had previously been removed.
The next step was to take the bare framerails outside and spend some time breaking in my new Eastwood media blaster. I bought the 100 Lb unit which mysteriously only holds about 70Lbs of blasting media.
I used a coal slag product called "Black Beauty"....pretty cheap and readily available at the local auto parts house. Here's an in-process shot of how well it strips off grease, undercoating and rust.
My 60 gallon compressor does a MUCH better job of keeping up with the air demands of the blaster than my old Craftsman 110V portable unit ever did (back in the CA days). I had this framerail stripped (inside and out) in less than 90 minutes! Not bad at all...
These cool factory stampings were buried under a thick layer of rubberized undercoating. I just love how gently the media reveals this type of stuff and makes it look just like 1972 again!
I didn't want to waste time leaving the metal sitting bare, so I busted out the Ryoken Green primer (zine chromate)... anyone who follows other build threads on CK5 will recognize the color. Thanks to Paul for suggesting this stuff...
It dries REALLY fast! I love it. Just about as quickly as I could move from one end to the other with the spraycan, it was already dry where I started from. I was able to apply several light coats and still get it moved indoors without fear of smudges or smears.
With daylight savings time, I ran out of daylight and couldn't get the second rail completed (yet). Rain is in the forcast for tomorrow, so the remainder of this will have to wait until the weekend.
Unfortunately, after only 300Lbs of media had passed through the new blaster, the feed hose developed a blowout right near the mixing nozzle at the bottom of the tank. I am pretty sure I can cut off a small section of hose and repair the damage.... it was just a disappointment to have issues so soon and to lose valuable daylight working hours.
....to be continued.
I'll admit it, even though at times it seems like I'm the one giving out info quite often, I still learn a LOT from the other members of CK5... and today's pics will illustrate that point in vivid color.
Since last weekend when Kurt and I swapped out the frame, I'd been thinking about a way to recycle at least a part of the old "discarded" frame... the idea has been brewing for a few days, so I decided to take action at start getting ready to salvage the parts I needed.
I pulled the frame into the shop and hung it from the cherry picker to make it a bit easier to work on cutting out all the factory rivets...
There are a LOT of them! I have a pretty decent system, but getting them off cleanly is still tedious. After a couple hours I had one of the framerails completely stripped of tubing, wiring and rivets and down to the bare essentials.
After a few MORE hours, I had the other side completed too. Here is a representative shot of just how many small parts are normally riveted to the frame.... and this doesn't even include a couple of the factory crossmembers that had previously been removed.
The next step was to take the bare framerails outside and spend some time breaking in my new Eastwood media blaster. I bought the 100 Lb unit which mysteriously only holds about 70Lbs of blasting media.
I used a coal slag product called "Black Beauty"....pretty cheap and readily available at the local auto parts house. Here's an in-process shot of how well it strips off grease, undercoating and rust.
My 60 gallon compressor does a MUCH better job of keeping up with the air demands of the blaster than my old Craftsman 110V portable unit ever did (back in the CA days). I had this framerail stripped (inside and out) in less than 90 minutes! Not bad at all...
These cool factory stampings were buried under a thick layer of rubberized undercoating. I just love how gently the media reveals this type of stuff and makes it look just like 1972 again!
I didn't want to waste time leaving the metal sitting bare, so I busted out the Ryoken Green primer (zine chromate)... anyone who follows other build threads on CK5 will recognize the color. Thanks to Paul for suggesting this stuff...
It dries REALLY fast! I love it. Just about as quickly as I could move from one end to the other with the spraycan, it was already dry where I started from. I was able to apply several light coats and still get it moved indoors without fear of smudges or smears.
With daylight savings time, I ran out of daylight and couldn't get the second rail completed (yet). Rain is in the forcast for tomorrow, so the remainder of this will have to wait until the weekend.
Unfortunately, after only 300Lbs of media had passed through the new blaster, the feed hose developed a blowout right near the mixing nozzle at the bottom of the tank. I am pretty sure I can cut off a small section of hose and repair the damage.... it was just a disappointment to have issues so soon and to lose valuable daylight working hours.
....to be continued.
Last edited:
So are you saving this frame for future use on another project? I mean why spend the time doing all this if you swapped frames because it was tweaked? 
So are you saving this frame for future use on another project? I mean why spend the time doing all this if you swapped frames because it was tweaked?
ya x2
Oh yeah, I guess I forgot to describe the actual thought process....
The basic theory is that I wanted to box the existing frame to add strength to it, especially in the middle 1/3rd where all the link suspension points will intersect. There will be substantial loads going into that area and I wanted to give it some extra beef.
As I thought about it more, it occurred to me: What would be a good way to get an accurate shape for the frame to create a filler panel to "box" it???
It turns out, that the old left hand framerail would make an EXCELLENT boxing plate on the inner side of the right framerail for the new frame, and the old right-hand framerail would make and equally excellent pattern to go inside the new left framerail.
Basicially if I were to cut off the upper and lower horizontals from the C-channel, I'd be left with a vertical plate that would be a perfect mirror-image of the factory frame shape, complete with the upswept areas and probably with enough pre-drilled holes in each to act as "index" points for getting everything lined up perfectly for final welding!
The more I thought about it, the more I liked the idea. I'm not sure if it's been done before, but the thought of building ONE uber-rigid boxed frame out of two factory frames just struck me as cool.... the nice part is that the "tweaked" parts of the original frame are the parts that get cut off anyway, so I'm left with basically flawless donor metal.
That's the concept anyway. The next few days will reveal if this idea is actually a good one or not.
The basic theory is that I wanted to box the existing frame to add strength to it, especially in the middle 1/3rd where all the link suspension points will intersect. There will be substantial loads going into that area and I wanted to give it some extra beef.
As I thought about it more, it occurred to me: What would be a good way to get an accurate shape for the frame to create a filler panel to "box" it???
It turns out, that the old left hand framerail would make an EXCELLENT boxing plate on the inner side of the right framerail for the new frame, and the old right-hand framerail would make and equally excellent pattern to go inside the new left framerail.
Basicially if I were to cut off the upper and lower horizontals from the C-channel, I'd be left with a vertical plate that would be a perfect mirror-image of the factory frame shape, complete with the upswept areas and probably with enough pre-drilled holes in each to act as "index" points for getting everything lined up perfectly for final welding!
The more I thought about it, the more I liked the idea. I'm not sure if it's been done before, but the thought of building ONE uber-rigid boxed frame out of two factory frames just struck me as cool.... the nice part is that the "tweaked" parts of the original frame are the parts that get cut off anyway, so I'm left with basically flawless donor metal.
That's the concept anyway. The next few days will reveal if this idea is actually a good one or not.
Boxing the frame is a much better idea than what I was thinking...
I was actually thinking that might have been what you had in mind. I would however suggest that you don't cut the "horizontals" off but rather leave the rails fully intact and position it so that the "horizontal" overlaps the existing frame rail on the top rail and then that would mean the lower horizontal would overlap the top of the lower horizontal of the existing frame, this would allow you to weld on the top and bottom of the frame rather than the side or edge of the frame and make it ALOT stronger than you were thinking with your idea. This is how every factory boxed frame is designed that i've ever seen. The only issue is that you will have to "notch" where ever there is a crossmember and it might be tricky to install depending on how many crossmembers are in the way of the length of frame you plan to box.
Did i make sense with all that?
Did i make sense with all that?
Made sense to me...but man, that's gonna add a lot more weight.
brandoneh
1/2 ton status
Wow! Cool Idea! That Frame is going to be SOLID!
That Frame is going to be SOLID!blazer7172
Registered Member
This is great story. I have followed for some time. And since this seems to be such a popular thread, I thought I would throw it out there on this one. Does anyone have the transfer case torque mount for the np 205? I need the whole thing, brackets and all?
There's nothing wrong with posting your "Part Wanted" inquiry as it's own thread in the 1st Gen Forum or the general "Parts Wanted" forums...
It shouldn't be that hard to find, and honestly I don't think burying your request in my build thread is the best way to get views or assistance with your search...
There's nothing wrong with posting your "Part Wanted" inquiry as it's own thread in the 1st Gen Forum or the general "Parts Wanted" forums...
It shouldn't be that hard to find, and honestly I don't think burying your request in my build thread is the best way to get views or assistance with your search...
Or even easy to find through however many pages this build thread is now.
blazer7172
Registered Member
I apoligize. I am new to the site and by no means did I intend to step on your toes. I will look elsewhere.
No worries, we're just giving you a little "nudge" in the right direction. This is where you need to make your post so it can be seen easily by those who might be able to help you.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=28
EDIT: See you already found the proper forum.
2009.11.21 - UPDATE! - SPACE...THE LIMITED FRONTIER!
Man, what I wouldn't give for a 30' x 50' shop right about now!
Today was a zero-progress day from an actual "build" perspective... instead it was an exercise in finding more space in the shop I've got.
The tub is really a huge obstacle right now, completely in the way of the frame work I desperately want to do, so I tried to come up with a way to make it a stand-alone unit that can be move seperately from the frame as needed.
I built a nice sturdy front support with some casters so that I could push the tub deeper into the shop space and try to then tuck it up into the vaulted area above.
I used the cherry picker to lift the rear of the tub by the back body mounts areas, and gave the whole thing a shove. Once I had the tub positioned where I wanted it, I ran some horizontal supports to some fresh vertical lumber posts.
It should be clear from the photos that the tub was moved forward in the bay about 30" from it's original position and the rear cagework is no longer trapped under the rollup door.
I was then able to yank out all of the jackstands that were underneath and drag the new donor frame out from under it.
By the end of the day, I had set up the old & new frame sections on the opposite side of the shop in preparation for tomorrow's procedure....
As you can see, I still have some more rivets to remove on the donor frame (middle crossmember) so that I can do a continuous "boxing" section on each framerail. After going through all this hassle, I'm not going to do it in smaller sections....this deal is going to be all or nothing.
Hopefully, I'll be able to get the rest of the sandblasting and zinc chromate done tomorrow morning, so that by afternoon I can be working on the cutting and fitment of these two sets of framerails...
Man, what I wouldn't give for a 30' x 50' shop right about now!
Today was a zero-progress day from an actual "build" perspective... instead it was an exercise in finding more space in the shop I've got.
The tub is really a huge obstacle right now, completely in the way of the frame work I desperately want to do, so I tried to come up with a way to make it a stand-alone unit that can be move seperately from the frame as needed.
I built a nice sturdy front support with some casters so that I could push the tub deeper into the shop space and try to then tuck it up into the vaulted area above.
I used the cherry picker to lift the rear of the tub by the back body mounts areas, and gave the whole thing a shove. Once I had the tub positioned where I wanted it, I ran some horizontal supports to some fresh vertical lumber posts.
It should be clear from the photos that the tub was moved forward in the bay about 30" from it's original position and the rear cagework is no longer trapped under the rollup door.
I was then able to yank out all of the jackstands that were underneath and drag the new donor frame out from under it.
By the end of the day, I had set up the old & new frame sections on the opposite side of the shop in preparation for tomorrow's procedure....
As you can see, I still have some more rivets to remove on the donor frame (middle crossmember) so that I can do a continuous "boxing" section on each framerail. After going through all this hassle, I'm not going to do it in smaller sections....this deal is going to be all or nothing.
Hopefully, I'll be able to get the rest of the sandblasting and zinc chromate done tomorrow morning, so that by afternoon I can be working on the cutting and fitment of these two sets of framerails...
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I'm super interested to see how this turns out. So when this is all boxed, what's the plan for running fuel lines and such? Are you going to try and run them inside or just figure somethig else out?
