smartcarkiller
Registered Member
Couldn't you just tack weld a piece of flat stock to the face of the race and some sort of bolt or something in the center to grab with a slide hammer? I don't know if it would work but it sounds good to me.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Probably.
Now that I've seen how blind-hole pullers are typically made, I can probably come up with something similar (just a LOT larger) and pull the bearing cleanly. I'm going to need to do it 4 times, so it's worth taking a little time to figure out a more "elegant" solution.
Hey Greg, how thick is the casting in the area where the bearing is that needs to be removed? Also how much room is between the rollers of the bearing and the actual casting? Lastly, do you have to reuse this bearing or just remove it and use it as a set-up bearing for some new ones?
Also I can see that the bearing is a queer bearing (FAG).
Also I can see that the bearing is a queer bearing (FAG).
There's not a whole lot of material at the base of that bearing, I'd guess something in the range of 1/8" - 3/16". It looks like there's enough of a gap under the bearing to fit the "fingers" of a puller if they were around 1/8"....maybe slightly less.
After studying the Factory Manual a bit more I've concluded that the bearing in question (lower output gear) is NOT a critical setup bearing. The setup that is most important is the upper gear (input gear from axle shaft). According to the manual there is no adjustment on the lower gear for preload, endplay, etc.
I need to drill a hole through the center of that plate for the CTIS rotating union, since the air travels straight through the middle of the output bearing (center of the wheel hub)...so I'll just figure out a way to pull the old bearing, clean out the debris and carefully press in the new ones (SKF not FAG)
After studying the Factory Manual a bit more I've concluded that the bearing in question (lower output gear) is NOT a critical setup bearing. The setup that is most important is the upper gear (input gear from axle shaft). According to the manual there is no adjustment on the lower gear for preload, endplay, etc.
I need to drill a hole through the center of that plate for the CTIS rotating union, since the air travels straight through the middle of the output bearing (center of the wheel hub)...so I'll just figure out a way to pull the old bearing, clean out the debris and carefully press in the new ones (SKF not FAG)
I had to surf this thread for an hour to find this quote. I was pricing out McMaster Carr some 3/4"x 6' x .188" DOM. It was like 58 bucks for a 6" piece of 4130.Chassis Shop has it... I don't know how "cheap" it is, but DOM rarely is.
3/4" - .156 wall should be perfect as a 7/16" bolt sleeve (.438" ID)
7/8" - .156 wall should be perfect for a 9/16" bolt sleeve (.563" ID), and might even work for 1/2" bolts but could be too sloppy to be acceptable.
Stay tuned.
Now I've to look up Chassis Shop.
Edit-I had to go back and look up McMaster Carr, and found out that 6 inch long piece is actually 6 feet.
Still, they don't have the wall thickness I'm looking for.
I could have padded but I edited instead--
Is this the stuff?
Last edited:
OD - (Wall Thickness X 2) = I.D.
If you think about it there are two wall thicknesses affecting the ID of the tube...simple math should be able to get you what you need for sleeve DOM.
Sorry, there's a 4th of July party in my backyard right now, and I'm too many beers into the night to do the math for ya!!!
If you think about it there are two wall thicknesses affecting the ID of the tube...simple math should be able to get you what you need for sleeve DOM.
Sorry, there's a 4th of July party in my backyard right now, and I'm too many beers into the night to do the math for ya!!!
I could have done that,OD - (Wall Thickness X 2) = I.D.
If you think about it there are two wall thicknesses affecting the ID of the tube...simple math should be able to get you what you need for sleeve DOM.
Sorry, there's a 4th of July party in my backyard right now, and I'm too many beers into the night to do the math for ya!!!
but I was cheating by measuring a factory sleeve for mounting a steering box. My question was the material. Did you buy the 1026?
Hangover....
Just looked up the original order. Yep, those last two are the ones I bought
P/N's 10-34-156 & 10-78-156
Just looked up the original order. Yep, those last two are the ones I bought
P/N's 10-34-156 & 10-78-156
Thank you.
WOW...AMAZING! 
2010.07.17 - UPDATE! - ENGINE STAND CONTINUES....
A couple of self-expanatory photos of today's efforts. This heat is making it tough to get really motivated, but I did as much as I could under the circumstances.
The new casters work great even with the full weight of the motor/trans. It rolls really easily compared to the jerky behavior of the metal cherry-picker wheels or the ones on my rotating engine stand.
I can't wait to get the motor completely painted and detailed, then fire it up and wake the neighbors!!
A couple of self-expanatory photos of today's efforts. This heat is making it tough to get really motivated, but I did as much as I could under the circumstances.
The new casters work great even with the full weight of the motor/trans. It rolls really easily compared to the jerky behavior of the metal cherry-picker wheels or the ones on my rotating engine stand.
I can't wait to get the motor completely painted and detailed, then fire it up and wake the neighbors!!
An engine test stand is handy to have. It nice not having to crotch over the fenders when something goes wrong during a critical procedure such as engine break-in.
Since you starting with a big block, you can place the radiator as far forward with out have to reinvent the whole thing.
The test stand we used to break in my motor last year was meant for small block and mechanical water pump and fan. The front of radiator have a cooler in the front and support rods so mounting an electric fan to the front is not practical.
Since you starting with a big block, you can place the radiator as far forward with out have to reinvent the whole thing.
The test stand we used to break in my motor last year was meant for small block and mechanical water pump and fan. The front of radiator have a cooler in the front and support rods so mounting an electric fan to the front is not practical.
Yeah, the radiator will be easy....I've got that Ron Davis Racing one with the integrated fans already, so all I need to do is hook up a couple of wires and it's ready to go.
As you can see, putting the transmission onto the stand also makes fitment a lot tighter than usual but it will be more convenient for storage to have the two bolted together...I like having the flexplate covered as well (just in case!)
My thought is to build a simple set of outriggers that will slide into the existing end tubes of the frame, then build a radiator mount from those. That way the radiator can be moved in or out as needed and removed completely when I'm done with break-ins. Should make the whole unit more compact and useful as a large furnture dolly later on.
Being able to run the motor will be great for simple stuff like warming the block to help cure the engine paint too... supposedly the best way to really make sure the paint sticks well is to go through a couple of heating cycles to around 200F, letting it cool completely after each one. Basically bakes the finish on an makes it more durable.
Finally being able to fold-up the cherry picker and engine build stand will save some serious room and make it a lot easier to move around the shop too.
As you can see, putting the transmission onto the stand also makes fitment a lot tighter than usual but it will be more convenient for storage to have the two bolted together...I like having the flexplate covered as well (just in case!)
My thought is to build a simple set of outriggers that will slide into the existing end tubes of the frame, then build a radiator mount from those. That way the radiator can be moved in or out as needed and removed completely when I'm done with break-ins. Should make the whole unit more compact and useful as a large furnture dolly later on.
Being able to run the motor will be great for simple stuff like warming the block to help cure the engine paint too... supposedly the best way to really make sure the paint sticks well is to go through a couple of heating cycles to around 200F, letting it cool completely after each one. Basically bakes the finish on an makes it more durable.
Finally being able to fold-up the cherry picker and engine build stand will save some serious room and make it a lot easier to move around the shop too.
very very nice greg, clean, as usual......
I'm supposed to get to build us one for work this winter when we slow... we'll see how that goes... having me unbillable is a rarity...
certainly beats sitting em in an old tire! tho there is something "raw and redneck" about that... 
I'm supposed to get to build us one for work this winter when we slow... we'll see how that goes... having me unbillable is a rarity...
certainly beats sitting em in an old tire!
tho there is something "raw and redneck" about that...
certainly beats sitting em in an old tire!
Damn, sitting an engine in a tire to start it must be like going to a Hotel rather than a Motel, I used to just set the engine on the garage floor and fire'er up right there sitting on the oil pan.
Now, you want to talk "raw and redneck", I built a V/8 Pinto many years ago and I just bolted the engine to the trans and let the engine sit on the sway bar (NO MOTORMOUNTS). I ran this car that way for probably 4 years. The next V/8 Pinto I upgraded to torque chains on each side of the engine and finally the last one I decided to use motormounts and "do it right".
2010.07.24 - UPDATE! - DETAILS...DETAILS...DETAILS....
It's always amazing how much time it takes to deal with the little details, and how much money you can spend on the "little stuff" when working on a project.
I have been taking a break from the rear suspension stuff for a little while, and decided to change gears from heavy fabrication to some nice finish-work and perhaps a bit of short-term motivation. My idea was to get the 502 finish painted, get the accessories on it, and then fire it up on the new test stand. The idea was that hearing that engine run would be a great inspiration and remind me that this truck WILL eventually drive under it's own power again....someday.
In anticipation of this weekend's work, I collected a bunch of things from Summit...
3M Products...Roloc discs, sandpaper, Scotchbrite pads, etc
And a rather pricey set of ARP Stainless Fasteners to bolt everything up
A local powdercoating shop did a nice job laying down a silver powder and a topcoat of clear on my Edelbrock AirGap manifold... should be a lot easier to keep clean than leaving it raw.
I've been experimenting with some rattlecan techniques to try to get a good professional finish. It all starts with a thorough sanding, grinding and scuffing of the original part followed by a few coats of primer. Unfortunately the primer didn't "build" very well, so when I shot the first few coats of Chevy Orange there was still a significant amount of casting texture in the part. Since you're not supposed to mess with the paint for about 5 days once you let it start drying I had to wait until this morning to finally get after it with a Scotchbrite pad to see if I could knock down some of that porous look.
I didn't really want a totally smooth, pimped-out showcar appearance...just a more modest amount of texture than I was getting. After a few more coats I got closer to what I was hoping for.
The tough part about working with all these small parts, especially when some are further along than others, is that you have to remember to recoat stuff that is flash-cured and not let it dry too far. I spent a lot of time running back and forth between the waterpump, the harmonic balancer, the lower pulley and the oilpan while also trying to do some prep work on the block itself.
I tried an Eastwood paint called "Underhood Black" on the pulley. It's a lower gloss black, and it really does have a correct factory appearance... not too dull, not too glossy. Just right.
I pulled the timing cover off to paint that seperately. It's aluminum, so instead of the traditional Duplicolor grey primer, I took Ryoken's advice and shot it with some green zinc instead. Since it was hanging from a wire in the side yard, I grabbed a shot of the block instead. It's quite a challenge trying to keep the motor clean on the inside while still doing a bunch of sanding and prep on the outside. It definitely tests my patience and OCD tendencies.
I pulled the oilpan too, since I wanted a really careful job on the edges and wanted to get full coverage even where the bolts will eventually go. I found that the crimson-colored Roloc discs make a GREAT deburring tool on stamped parts. I was able to get rid of all the sharp edges around the perimeter of the oilpan without making them overly radiused. No more sliced fingers or cussing later on.
Here's a finished shot of the harmonic balancer. I still need to paint the degree markings with a contrasting color, and I want to shoot all the finished parts with a Duplicolor clear to seal them up just a bit more, but overall I was really satisfied with the quality of the paint once I'd layed down a few coats of the orange.
The block is the next big challenge. There is a lot of careful sanding that needs to happen and I want to get rid of some of the really bad casting seams and texture to give it a more refined look....not like a trailered showcar engine, but just a bit more tidy than a regular factory engine would look.
It's always amazing how much time it takes to deal with the little details, and how much money you can spend on the "little stuff" when working on a project.
I have been taking a break from the rear suspension stuff for a little while, and decided to change gears from heavy fabrication to some nice finish-work and perhaps a bit of short-term motivation. My idea was to get the 502 finish painted, get the accessories on it, and then fire it up on the new test stand. The idea was that hearing that engine run would be a great inspiration and remind me that this truck WILL eventually drive under it's own power again....someday.
In anticipation of this weekend's work, I collected a bunch of things from Summit...
3M Products...Roloc discs, sandpaper, Scotchbrite pads, etc
And a rather pricey set of ARP Stainless Fasteners to bolt everything up
A local powdercoating shop did a nice job laying down a silver powder and a topcoat of clear on my Edelbrock AirGap manifold... should be a lot easier to keep clean than leaving it raw.
I've been experimenting with some rattlecan techniques to try to get a good professional finish. It all starts with a thorough sanding, grinding and scuffing of the original part followed by a few coats of primer. Unfortunately the primer didn't "build" very well, so when I shot the first few coats of Chevy Orange there was still a significant amount of casting texture in the part. Since you're not supposed to mess with the paint for about 5 days once you let it start drying I had to wait until this morning to finally get after it with a Scotchbrite pad to see if I could knock down some of that porous look.
I didn't really want a totally smooth, pimped-out showcar appearance...just a more modest amount of texture than I was getting. After a few more coats I got closer to what I was hoping for.
The tough part about working with all these small parts, especially when some are further along than others, is that you have to remember to recoat stuff that is flash-cured and not let it dry too far. I spent a lot of time running back and forth between the waterpump, the harmonic balancer, the lower pulley and the oilpan while also trying to do some prep work on the block itself.
I tried an Eastwood paint called "Underhood Black" on the pulley. It's a lower gloss black, and it really does have a correct factory appearance... not too dull, not too glossy. Just right.
I pulled the timing cover off to paint that seperately. It's aluminum, so instead of the traditional Duplicolor grey primer, I took Ryoken's advice and shot it with some green zinc instead. Since it was hanging from a wire in the side yard, I grabbed a shot of the block instead. It's quite a challenge trying to keep the motor clean on the inside while still doing a bunch of sanding and prep on the outside. It definitely tests my patience and OCD tendencies.
I pulled the oilpan too, since I wanted a really careful job on the edges and wanted to get full coverage even where the bolts will eventually go. I found that the crimson-colored Roloc discs make a GREAT deburring tool on stamped parts. I was able to get rid of all the sharp edges around the perimeter of the oilpan without making them overly radiused. No more sliced fingers or cussing later on.
Here's a finished shot of the harmonic balancer. I still need to paint the degree markings with a contrasting color, and I want to shoot all the finished parts with a Duplicolor clear to seal them up just a bit more, but overall I was really satisfied with the quality of the paint once I'd layed down a few coats of the orange.
The block is the next big challenge. There is a lot of careful sanding that needs to happen and I want to get rid of some of the really bad casting seams and texture to give it a more refined look....not like a trailered showcar engine, but just a bit more tidy than a regular factory engine would look.
glad ya got good results today Greg, looks good..
i deburred and smoothed my block awhile back (thats why it's been sitting with green zinc on it) and you can really notice a difference... well, i can at least...
rolocs are where it's at.... on a right angle die grinder... one of my fave tools...
i deburred and smoothed my block awhile back (thats why it's been sitting with green zinc on it) and you can really notice a difference... well, i can at least...
rolocs are where it's at.... on a right angle die grinder... one of my fave tools...
You need to remove the paint from the inside of that balancer before you try putting it back on. Trust me on that.
A couple more.......the block cleaning.
This one is weird. There was a topcoat of a black paint that came off kind of gooey, then an orange layer, and then a black layer (again) under that. Only the top coat was sticky to remove, the others were a lot like most other paints I've removed elsewhere.
Just a little bit of deburring and knocking down of some unneeded casting bumps, etc. I'd really like to get this block into paint by tomorrow night if I can, so that it will be dry enough to work on again next weekend.
This one is weird. There was a topcoat of a black paint that came off kind of gooey, then an orange layer, and then a black layer (again) under that. Only the top coat was sticky to remove, the others were a lot like most other paints I've removed elsewhere.
Just a little bit of deburring and knocking down of some unneeded casting bumps, etc. I'd really like to get this block into paint by tomorrow night if I can, so that it will be dry enough to work on again next weekend.
