CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
I'll have to go out and throw a caliper on it to be sure, but again when I do the truss it would be pretty easy to add another 1/4 or 3/8" plate to the underside of that housing for insurance...... After seeing the ground clearance I'm getting now I think I can afford to lose a fraction of an inch if needed. 
skidog1us
1/2 ton status
What size are those BFG's?
Look here
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http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac249/gregblanchette/K5 Gallery/DSC03837.jpg
I need help understanding since I still consider myself a newb. If the axle is at that height and the body is two inches too high if the axle gets centered on that wheel it will be really tucked in the well won't it?
I need help understanding since I still consider myself a newb. If the axle is at that height and the body is two inches too high if the axle gets centered on that wheel it will be really tucked in the well won't it?
it's a portal axle... the tire isn't centered to the tube.. it sits lower... thats the whole point, ya get stupid ground clearance...
here's a portal box to give ya an idea...
here's a portal box to give ya an idea...
Cool and thanks for the picture. I've never seen one clearly before.
The one Paul showed is a Hummer H1 style..... IIRC.
The cool thing about the Mog404 portals is they are only a 2-gear portal, which means that the upper and lower gear rotate opposite from each other.
SO.... when I'm driving forward at low speed, if you peek at the front knuckles you'll see that the shafts are actually turning BACKWARDS when the truck is moving FORWARDS.... it's trippy!!
There are more detailed photos of the portals somewhere in the previous 1289 posts in this thread if you feel like scrolling through all the pages for the next couple of hours.
The cool thing about the Mog404 portals is they are only a 2-gear portal, which means that the upper and lower gear rotate opposite from each other.
SO.... when I'm driving forward at low speed, if you peek at the front knuckles you'll see that the shafts are actually turning BACKWARDS when the truck is moving FORWARDS.... it's trippy!!
There are more detailed photos of the portals somewhere in the previous 1289 posts in this thread if you feel like scrolling through all the pages for the next couple of hours.
must be nice to see the body and frame together again!
btw .500" axle tube thickness on a D44... I call bull****
btw .500" axle tube thickness on a D44... I call bull****
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
must be nice to see the body and frame together again!
btw .500" axle tube thickness on a D44... I call bull****
They sure did make them, also had larger brakes and a bigger and/or stronger center section
I picked up one for a sas on my 06.
They sure did make them, also had larger brakes and a bigger and/or stronger center section
that axle must weigh 800 pounds
I'll see your bullsh!t and raise you a D44 HD I still have laying around. It is heavy, but still nowhere near as heavy as a D60. I'm reasonably sure the regular D44 and 10 bolts were .375" wall tubes. 14 bolt rear has .500 wall tubes too.
Rene
Rene
must be nice to see the body and frame together again!
btw .500" axle tube thickness on a D44... I call bull****
I can say for a fact that the D44 HD DOES have .500" thick tubes. I've had one in my past.
lukefalls
1/2 ton status
I'm not going to chime in on the Dana 44 HD issue, however, awesome build. You're keeping me motivated to make sure I do mine right.
Had a weird thought.... (what's new right? )
I could pick up some 4", .250" wall DOM which would have a 3.5" through-hole....and use that to "sleeve" the Spidertrax axletubes. The end result would be a 4" OD, .500" wall axletube.
Issues:
- Would need to probably run the new DOM on a lathe to clean up the I.D. so that it's dimensionally VERY accurate or it will never slide over the existing tubes.
- If the outside tube is sloppy at all, it probably won't add much real strength. They would probably need to be tight enough that they should be pressed on with a huge hydraulic press of some sort.
- Would need to figure out the best method for welding the new outer sleeve. Should I do just the ends, or maybe cut some holes along the length of it and do some rosette welds to joint the two tubes in more places?
- The other option would be to slice the outer tube longitudinally and make it a bolt-together setup with a truss incorporated with it. This would eliminate the worries about warping the housing by doing a lot of welding on it, and I wouldn't need to buy an alignment bar, and/or build a massive axle fixture to lock the axle down for welding.
Heading out to the shop now. I probably won't deal with axle stuff today anyway. I think I'll be trying to get a new engine crossmember figured out and maybe determine what the interference issue is between my TH400 adapter and my 4L80E trans.
)I could pick up some 4", .250" wall DOM which would have a 3.5" through-hole....and use that to "sleeve" the Spidertrax axletubes. The end result would be a 4" OD, .500" wall axletube.
Issues:
- Would need to probably run the new DOM on a lathe to clean up the I.D. so that it's dimensionally VERY accurate or it will never slide over the existing tubes.
- If the outside tube is sloppy at all, it probably won't add much real strength. They would probably need to be tight enough that they should be pressed on with a huge hydraulic press of some sort.
- Would need to figure out the best method for welding the new outer sleeve. Should I do just the ends, or maybe cut some holes along the length of it and do some rosette welds to joint the two tubes in more places?
- The other option would be to slice the outer tube longitudinally and make it a bolt-together setup with a truss incorporated with it. This would eliminate the worries about warping the housing by doing a lot of welding on it, and I wouldn't need to buy an alignment bar, and/or build a massive axle fixture to lock the axle down for welding.
Heading out to the shop now. I probably won't deal with axle stuff today anyway. I think I'll be trying to get a new engine crossmember figured out and maybe determine what the interference issue is between my TH400 adapter and my 4L80E trans.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Greg,
If you're worried about the axle tube bending from stress or use, then sleeving it very tightly would be important.
But if you are more concerned about impact resistance, the outer sleeve could have a much sloppier tolerance and still be effective. One way might be to cut the outer tube in half along it's length and then weld it up against the axle tube as a kind of skidplate. Maybe welding the top half back on might help with the first concern as well.
If you're worried about the axle tube bending from stress or use, then sleeving it very tightly would be important.
But if you are more concerned about impact resistance, the outer sleeve could have a much sloppier tolerance and still be effective. One way might be to cut the outer tube in half along it's length and then weld it up against the axle tube as a kind of skidplate. Maybe welding the top half back on might help with the first concern as well.
