What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
Yep. Page 17


Found a cool photo online..... cutaway view of the Mog404 portal housing and gearset!

Mog404cutawayview.jpg



Figured I'd throw this into the thread for completeness. :D
 
Last edited:
Well bud, it sure doesn't look like you lost your touch of making awesome.. :waytogo:






Congrats on the banishment.. :woot:
 
Awesome work! And congrats on the banishment! Must be a rough life being sent to the garage when you are bad!! hahah
 
looks great Greg...nice day in NH too by the looks of it.
 
jekquistk5 said:
Awesome work! And congrats on the banishment! Must be a rough life being sent to the garage when you are bad!! hahah
Click to expand...

I feel some misbehaving comin' on today! :whistle:

Looks like I'll get banished to the manspace again this weekend.

:popcorn:


-G


Ps. I just found a listing on the Yukon Gear website for 2.47 gear sets for the 9".... Can't seem to find pricing so they might be discontinued, but I was encouraged at the thought that I might be able to buy new gear sets instead of trying to find "good used" ones to install. From what I remember, Yukon is supposed to be one of the better companies for quality gear sets.
 
A bit more progress.....

I wanted to burn-in the end plates permanently, but also wanted to insure that they were 100% aligned with each other. Instead of measuring each one individually with my angle finder, I decided to mount them both to a nice flat piece of rectangular box tubing to square everything up. This makes it a lot simpler to pull dimensions for other link brackets later on as well.

3ad3c5e1.jpg


Here's what I mean about having a good "index" from the new rectangular box tube.

05ed6cb3.jpg


c633ae3e.jpg



I was able to stack up some old aluminum spacers to give me good solid dimensions for the lower link bracket and get everything in perfect alignment. I need to get the heim exactly at the vertical centerline of the axletube but also at a 67* angle to converge the links correctly at the frame end. I also finally got a bottle of Dychem marking fluid so that I can be a bit more "professional" and scribe my lines instead of drawing everything on the axle with a black Sharpie! :D

It won't be long now.... I'm going to need to get Rene to walk me through the exact weld sequencing for the truss. Then I can slap on the portal housings and get it back under the truck with the wheels and tires and finally see how this is going to look! :saweet:

-G
 
Another quick update.....

Started from scratch (again!) on the lower link mount bracketry to make them slightly taller, and knocked out all 4 tabs at once to save time. Spent about an hour standing in front of my 20" disc grinder dressing the tabs down to the exact dimensions I needed.... Of course the outer tabs are longer than the interior ones due to the angularity of the link mounts.

357c9113.jpg


Got them fitted up nice and tight, and when I had the angles "just-so" I tacked them into place.

I have been thinking a lot about the mounting location for the ORI struts. There were only two options: Either mount it well behind the axle and upper link mount tower, or mount it up high...basically at the same height as the upper link mount so that there won't be any chance of the strut hitting the link bracketry under articulation..... I chose the latter.

Here's the current strategy...

32a811e6.jpg


Obviously you can see that the link bolts run perpendicular to the lower strut bolt. This will be the correct orientation to allow for massive bump/droop) of the axle. The rotation takes place around the bolt, instead of relying on the misalignment bushing of the lower strut mount.

It can easily be made strong enough to hold the weight of the truck, the only downside is that the upper mount is going to be so high (and through the bed floor obviously) that it will probably end up mounted to the uppermost rollcage tubes! :)

This will work fine for the rear axle, but up front this strategy will not work. I'd have to cut holes in my hood (big ones!) to let the struts poke through.....


-G
 
Last edited:
Greg72 said:
the only downside is that the upper mount is going to be so high (and through the bed floor obviously) that it will probably end up mounted to the uppermost rollcage tubes!
Click to expand...

Then your shocks can provide some cushion in case you flop it on its lid. :)
 
Looking good Greg, this talk about seeing on it's own 4 wheels is just crazy, don't be teasing us like that! :waytogo:
 
folkenheath said:
Looking good Greg, this talk about seeing on it's own 4 wheels is just crazy, don't be teasing us like that! :waytogo:
Click to expand...

Who said anything about FOUR wheels? :D

Rear axle only....2 wheels for now, sorry. I'm really interested to see how tall the rear struts end up being. I'm honestly hoping that they don't poke up much higher than the bedrail when viewed from the side... But I'll have to wait and see.

-G
 
Ordered up the rear ORIs today..... $1360.00. (ouch)

Lead time is about 2.5 weeks these days from ORI....so I should have them in my workshop right around Fathers Day. :wink1:

Looks like I'll be using another garage coupon or two, to get the rear of the truck sitting on its tires (finally) instead of jackstands! :waytogo:


-G
 
Awesome build, Greg! I was worried the truck was going to be hacked away into some unrecognizable truggy, but I'm glad you're keeping the beautiful first gen k5 look. Keep up the great work!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom