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Are you going to open it up like Zim was going to do some time back? I just seen that thread pop back to the top today so It got me thinking.

I think the big thing, as you know, is to keep that same arch. Just with how big you need it, I hope it doesn't come out funny looking.

I'd help, but I suck at the photoshop. Shady and NorCal Chris seem to do an all right job of it in some other threads tho. Maybe see if they can help. :dunno:
 
If you look at a stock 1st Gen you'll notice the rear arch sits lower than the front does, and is a little smaller overall.

The trick is to maintain the proportion and relationship front & rear, and not stretch the fender in the middle so that it gets a "flat spot" across the top of it. Yuck.

The square body guys have it a lot easier, you can stretch those without screwing up the look... Round wheel openings are a whole different story.


-G
 
can you increase the radius of the opening, say its 37" now, open it up to 40" by stretching it to the back more?
Does that make sense?
 
can you increase the radius of the opening, say its 37" now, open it up to 40" by stretching it to the back more?
Does that make sense?

Yes, exactly!

The front of the wheelwell won't really move at all.... It will get a tad taller and all the extra clearance gets added to the trailing edge of the fender.

If you look at post #1 in this thread, there is a side view photo of my truck on 38s parked in the backyard. The rear axle is offset to the rear of the truck (just like it is here) but back then I just chopped-out the lower part of the fender as a quick and dirty fix. :whistle:

Same tire issue that I have now...

Pic3.jpg




-G
 
Are you going to open it up like Zim was going to do some time back? I just seen that thread pop back to the top today so It got me thinking.

I think the big thing, as you know, is to keep that same arch. Just with how big you need it, I hope it doesn't come out funny looking.

I'd help, but I suck at the photoshop. Shady and NorCal Chris seem to do an all right job of it in some other threads tho. Maybe see if they can help. :dunno:

I dont use photo shop.... I do all mine with regular old windows Paint:waytogo: wish i did have photo shop though.... I have the feeling i'd be good at it:D

That round opeing is definitely a little harder to make look right though... i've been thinking the same thing about my kids 72
 
Yes, exactly!

The front of the wheelwell won't really move at all.... It will get a tad taller and all the extra clearance gets added to the trailing edge of the fender.

If you look at post #1 in this thread, there is a side view photo of my truck on 38s parked in the backyard. The rear axle is offset to the rear of the truck (just like it is here) but back then I just chopped-out the lower part of the fender as a quick and dirty fix. :whistle:

Same tire issue that I have now...

Pic3.jpg




-G

Some interesting wheelwell work on a truck that is the opposite of yours.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showpost.php4?p=537722&postcount=89

After it is all said and done, I think the wheelwells might be easier to do from scratch. In the attachment, they just raised them, changing the radius would be a lot harder to do starting from the stockers.
 
Some interesting wheelwell work on a truck that is the opposite of yours.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showpost.php4?p=537722&postcount=89

After it is all said and done, I think the wheelwells might be easier to do from scratch. In the attachment, they just raised them, changing the radius would be a lot harder to do starting from the stockers.

Yep.

Raising the arch is childsplay compared to reworking the entire arch to make it larger. I saw another thread on the 67-72 Board: the "No Limits Build" where they basically hand-built brand new arches for an early style (67-72) pickup..... NICE!

The "pizza slice" method I've used before will work again. Admittedly it's a lot of work, but what on this build isn't..... :whistle::D


Anyway... a few more photos and a touch more progress from last night:

Rear Links (as it turns out) were within about 1/2" of falling apart where the threads/heims screw together! :yikes: The solution was to give them a stretch and try to keep the strength and straightness of the final product.

D0DD45F9-D0D8-45C2-9453-8593F344C337.jpg


That's my 3" extension piece (2" x .500" wall) and a 6" stub of 1" x .185" wall) to internally sleeve the parts together.

I ground a healthy bevel into all the parts before welding....

3297796C-A2B8-4A24-B6C4-89C07DDAC7B2.jpg


...then cranked the welder up to 24 volts (which turned out to be too hot), and ultimately settled back down around 22.5 volts where it seemed to prefer.

End Result:

F4BA57BF-3EF3-4005-8401-C12AF952ED86.jpg


Not the prettiest welds I've ever done, but they are plenty strong and I don't have any concerns about them holding the weight of the truck safely until the final parts arrive.

Here's the look under the truck (facing rearward) to show the new links installed. Center to center length is now 47".....

BAE65699-0718-4B74-80D3-BB4FF16A9101.jpg



...... and from the "What Took Me So Long Finally Fix That" segment of our show: :D

Does anyone else ever get fed up with using that stupid little notched handle-end to relieve pressure cherry picker cylinder? I swear it's so clumsy and inaccurate that sometimes the whole thing drops violently by several inches if I don't crank the handle slowly enough.

A few months ago, I finally had enough and welded a thin triangular tab on that screw so that I didn't have to use the notched-rod anymore. It's long enough that I can move it by hand, and also long enough that I can be VERY accurate with the speed that I use to lower heavy items.

1916D046-FFB6-4DBD-89C9-5906BCB28620.jpg


Works like a champ! Well worth the 10-minutes that it takes to build and weld on there..... it's one of those simple things that really makes working in the shop a lot more pleasant and enjoyable. :waytogo:


-G
 
Works like a champ! Well worth the 10-minutes that it takes to build and weld on there..... it's one of those simple things that really makes working in the shop a lot more pleasant and enjoyable. :waytogo:

Slick as snot!

Also, it's a relief to see you do something that us regular monkeys can do and use instead of just drooling over. :haha:

-- A
 
Yep.


BAE65699-0718-4B74-80D3-BB4FF16A9101.jpg



...... and from the "What Took Me So Long Finally Fix That" segment of our show: :D

Does anyone else ever get fed up with using that stupid little notched handle-end to relieve pressure cherry picker cylinder? I swear it's so clumsy and inaccurate that sometimes the whole thing drops violently by several inches if I don't crank the handle slowly enough.

A few months ago, I finally had enough and welded a thin triangular tab on that screw so that I didn't have to use the notched-rod anymore. It's long enough that I can move it by hand, and also long enough that I can be VERY accurate with the speed that I use to lower heavy items.

1916D046-FFB6-4DBD-89C9-5906BCB28620.jpg


Works like a champ! Well worth the 10-minutes that it takes to build and weld on there..... it's one of those simple things that really makes working in the shop a lot more pleasant and enjoyable. :waytogo:


-G


Still amazed at the ground clearance under the diff..:eek1:

I like the larger handle idea for the hoist, Ima steal it too!:whistle:
 
I was worried welding a handle on there might melt a seal or something in the cylinder...but I guess not?
 
You are just full of brilliance.

Painted the stupid jack handle bright orange a while ago too.... Silver just blends in the the cement floor and it was always missing when I needed it.

Now that I have those little hanging "loops" on the side of the cherry picker I usually remember to just holster it there when I'm done.

Welded a short section of round tubing horizontally across the top bar to act like a backstop for when the legs are swung up for storage. A single bungee cord lashes the legs to that crossbar so it can be moved around without clumsy flopping of the legs.... The tube makes for a great handlebar to push it around with too....

Now that I recount all the changes I've made, it turns out that my cherry picker is actually quite "custom" after all. :D

-G
 
BAE65699-0718-4B74-80D3-BB4FF16A9101.jpg

Hey Greg, in this image, what is holding the truck up in the back? Is it sitting on the rear bump stops? I can't tell for sure from the pic.
 
When you get the truck done, you are just going to turn the garage into a museum and leave right there, right? That's like art work.
 
Hey Greg, in this image, what is holding the truck up in the back? Is it sitting on the rear bump stops? I can't tell for sure from the pic.


Just to the inside of the upper link mounts you can see a set of temporary "stubs" bolted-up directly under the frame rails. They are holding up the weight of the frame/body until I get the ORIs installed.... Tricky,, tricky. :haha:


When you get the truck done, you are just going to turn the garage into a museum and leave right there, right? That's like art work.

I suppose. Kind of like the garage in Cupertino, CA where Steve Jobs started Apple, eh? :D. Sure.... My humble garage will become a shrine for do-it-yourself 4x4 guys around the world. A symbol of what is possible, and how one man's vision can transcend the limits of his environment and space.... And greatness can emerge, against incredible odds. :waytogo:

You guys crack me up! :laugh:



Now... Get me to 500,000 views before Paul's build cracks the 1,000,000 mark!!!

It's a drag race, and I'm trying to get to at least half-track before the king trips the lights at the big end! :eek1:


-G
 
I realized that even though I had set my wheelbase to 107" (stock is 104" on a 1st Gen) I hadn't properly set the rear axle far enough back.

The short-term solution was to move the front axle back until it fit the wheelwell properly, and temporarily let the wheelbase shrink below my 107" target. When I took the first measurement, it was actually at 103.5"...

-G
I missed the discussion about wheelbase length, what page?
 
I missed the discussion about wheelbase length, what page?

Post #2325 or so... (not sure what page that is for your settings)

The problem was this:

F872ACB6-DD08-4269-9F60-26E8059FB8B3-15111-0000214987FF44FD.jpg


WAAAAAY to far forward to ever build a decent-looking fender arch....

Pulled it back a few inches until it looked right, and ended up at around 104" overall, leaving me to gain back the lost wheelbase by pushing the rear axle further back.

-G
 

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