I've blistered my hand through my welding gloves more times than I can count...and every time I think to myself
"Self, you are an idjit"
"Self, you are an idjit"
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
I am sporting a wicked farmer's welder burn on my left arm now. All I welded was two shock mounts and a driveshaft.
This whole working at night thing is killing my farmer's tan and making me burn easier haha
This whole working at night thing is killing my farmer's tan and making me burn easier haha
'72 K5 - Greg's "Might As Well™...SUNDAY ARTS & CRAFTS DAY!!!!
Welding burn sucks
Welding burn sucks
Every update I am amazed in the quality of work you do Greg.
Thanks bud.
I've come to learn that doing fabrication that looks "professional" is mostly a state of mind. You can have all the fancy tools in the world, but if you don't hold yourself to a high standard of quality, the final product will look lousy. Conversely, you can do a build with a relatively humble set of tools and get great results if you apply them well....
Most of my work is done with 2 angle grinders (one with a 4-1/2" cutoff wheel, and one with a 3M 40-grit flapdisc).... a spring-loaded centerpunch, and carbide scriber, some Dykem marking fluid and a couple of blue Sharpies. The only "luxury" item I use regularly is the 20" disc grinder with a 36-grit abrasive on it.... but I picked that up used from Craigslist for around $500.
You don't have to spend a lot of money on tools to get great looking results. It just takes time and a bit of patience.... once you learn the techniques, it's amazing how nicely parts can be rendered... even if you are working in a humble 2-car garage space.
-G
I wish i could cut patterns out of plate steel that look that nice, they look like they were water jetted!
If you are willing to spend the time, it can be done.
Most of the time I cut with a .040" thick cutoff wheel... even on that 1/4" plate. With the Dykem and a scribe I have a VERY precise target line for my cut, and with practice I can now get within a few thousandths of the line.
Then I walk it over to the disc grinder and dress the material down the final few thousandths until it touches my scribe line. That's when the edge ends up at a perfect 90* angle and has a nice uniform appearance.
For outside curves, I can cut them pretty sloppy using a series of straight tangential cuts with the cutoff wheel, then dress them down on the disc grinder. Removing metal on a curve is a LOT faster than trying to work a 12" long straight section of 1/4" plate all at once.....so even if the curve isn't all that precise initially, I can shape it pretty fast.
Sometimes I get stubborn when the abrasive disc needs changing.... I'll stand in front of that machine for 10 minutes trying to finesse an edge when it should only take 1 minute to do. Eventually I get fed up and swap a new 36'er on there and it cuts super-fast again.
-G
Plasma is on my next to buy list. Set the metal straight edge out, clamp it and drag.
I've got a plasma....it's just not as useful as everyone thinks for this kind of work.
BTDT..... problem is, you can't cut within a few thousandths. The cut edge is a bit more jagged than a simple cutoff wheel, so even though the cut itself can be made faster.... the amount of time you'll spend on the disc grinder dressing that plasma edge down to the scribe mark is substantially longer.
Not saying that I don't enjoy having a plasma cutter from time to time, but it's not my favorite way to cut metal these days.
-G
I deff need to pick up some dykem, my grease pencil mark i usually non-existent after i cut or grind the plate.
Excuse my noon question but what's dykem? Anyone have a link?
it's layout dye.. available in liquid, spray, etc... Greg runs the liquid.. I've been trying out the spray myself.. here's a big kit... you can get red, blue, etc... look around on eghey..
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/dykem-l...7amFnm17oLsCosmRSg3LxTCnM69a3xzPpkTf79CHw_wcB
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/dykem-l...7amFnm17oLsCosmRSg3LxTCnM69a3xzPpkTf79CHw_wcB
Or from my home away from home.... Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Dykem-80300-S...0018ACR6G/ref=cm_sw_em_r_awd_gIKJtb18JKPWB_tt
-G
http://www.amazon.com/Dykem-80300-S...0018ACR6G/ref=cm_sw_em_r_awd_gIKJtb18JKPWB_tt
-G
A few more hours in the shop..... A few steps forward.
Plated-in the axle-side PHB mount.
The finish welding will be a bit complicated, since I need to weld all the inside seams first, then drop the top plate back down and weld all the outer perimeter areas.... Before that happens, I want to fully cycle the suspension just to make SURE that the new plating doesn't interfere with the PHB somehow.
I also want to render the steering arms fully since those get awfully close to this PHB mount under hard left turns.
......however, it is all getting deliciously close to complete!
-G
Plated-in the axle-side PHB mount.
The finish welding will be a bit complicated, since I need to weld all the inside seams first, then drop the top plate back down and weld all the outer perimeter areas.... Before that happens, I want to fully cycle the suspension just to make SURE that the new plating doesn't interfere with the PHB somehow.
I also want to render the steering arms fully since those get awfully close to this PHB mount under hard left turns.
......however, it is all getting deliciously close to complete!
-G
Guess that I "Might At Well" drop this information here as well....
The plan is to use the 2.47 gearset for an overall ratio of 5.26
Also, thinking about 2.75 since it's a bit easier to find. The highway RPMs are starting to get a bit high for my liking though....
-G
The plan is to use the 2.47 gearset for an overall ratio of 5.26
Also, thinking about 2.75 since it's a bit easier to find. The highway RPMs are starting to get a bit high for my liking though....
-G
With that healthy big block, you'd be fine with 2.47s
Big blocks don't like to turn a lot of rpms unless its specifically built for that. Now If you went small block or LS I'd say the higher gear.
Big blocks don't like to turn a lot of rpms unless its specifically built for that. Now If you went small block or LS I'd say the higher gear.
Future plans
Are going to drive this to Blazer Bash '18? How long of drive will it be for you?
Are going to drive this to Blazer Bash '18? How long of drive will it be for you?
It's a little over 2000 miles each way....
Realistically, that would be 5 days of driving (at a reasonable pace) just to get there.
It seems pretty stupid to waste so much vacation time just to drive on a boring highway, so I'll probably ship the car somewhere close (SLC or Denver) then fly in and just drive the last 6 hours or so.... I just can't stand the thought of arriving in Moab on a trailer.
-G
I think your engine will be fine even at the higher rpm, hell my old 76 454 ran 3500 rpm all the way home from Idaho and it was bone 35 years old stock.
If you got the time, enjoy the drive...its part of a good vacation IMO!
If you got the time, enjoy the drive...its part of a good vacation IMO!
I have no shame about arriving on a trailer.
If you ship it your just making it look like you didn't tow but you know you did.
I like the way Zimm thinks....
Think about it, your kid is about as old as your build thread. He and the Blazer grew up together.
How epic would it be to take your time and really see the land and go on an adventure with dad and the rig he built.
Maybe I'm out of place. Just living vicariously.
If you ship it your just making it look like you didn't tow but you know you did.
I like the way Zimm thinks....
Think about it, your kid is about as old as your build thread. He and the Blazer grew up together.
How epic would it be to take your time and really see the land and go on an adventure with dad and the rig he built.
Maybe I'm out of place. Just living vicariously.
