'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

[Greg72]

I've got no idea what happened, but I ended up with a spectacular failure of one of my Snap-On annular cutters last night.

I was using cutting fluid, and nice low spindle speeds and reasonable downward pressure, but obviously something either bound-up or wiggled out of position. So long Mr. 5/8" cutter it was nice knowing you..... Time to go find a replacement.

The remaining holes had to be drilled out the "old school" way. I drilled out the hole to 1/2" and then used a Step-bit to open up the hole to 5/8". Since the material is 1/4" thick I had to flip the part to get the step bit all the way through. The "steps" on the bit are only 1/8"...

I did manage to render three new brackets and get two of them tacked into place.

A few from above to show the offset holes.... As you can see they are both lined up at 8-3/4" from the kingpin centerline. Same dimension as before (when I was using one large bolt through both heims)

According to my notes in the Oracle, the draglink angle is only 4* so the bracket I'm building doesn't need a very aggressive angle to do the job.

-G

 

[jekquistk5]

What type of cutting fluid do you use Greg?

 

[Greg72]

Last night I tried WD-40... perhaps that was a mistake.

For the large holes (1.5" & 2" etc) I went through a progression from WD-40 to Liquid Wrench to Kendall 20-50W Motor Oil. I was getting desperate to find something that would keep the cutter from getting bound-up, and it wasn't until I put that RogueFab reduction pulley setup on the drillpress that I could finally power through the 1/4" plate.

Ever since then, I'd pretty much been using the motor oil for most of my drilling... but it's kind of a pain to clean up afterwards. Too gooey and sticky and probably contaminates the welds unless it's cleaned up REALLY well.

-G

 

[jekquistk5]

I was using wd-40 but that started flinging everywhere and staining the floor, so I switched to this stuff from the depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-16...H=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1-2-_-NA-_-100191834-_-N


Seems to work well and does not stain as much. It still gets everywhere but it's a little easier to clean up. I put it in one of those old oil pump containers.

I hit all the parts with acetone afterwords and haven't had any issues with welds.

 

[Greg72]

I was using wd-40 but that started flinging everywhere and staining the floor, so I switched to this stuff from the depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-16...H=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1-2-_-NA-_-100191834-_-N


Seems to work well and does not stain as much. It still gets everywhere but it's a little easier to clean up. I put it in one of those old oil pump containers.

I hit all the parts with acetone afterwords and haven't had any issues with welds.

BAM!

Amazon.com

I'll have some here on Saturday....free shipping. Thanks!


I have a feeling that part of the problem was the centerpin might have been a bit dull, and the spring tension wasn't as high as it should be. If the bit wobbles at all, I could imagine that it will bind and shatter pretty easily.

Not having much luck finding the replacement bit on Snap-On or BluePoint sites... need #GA219A7 according to the part number on the original case.

Anyone know where to find individual replacement bits online??



-G

 

[jekquistk5]

Yah I'm sure when I get a rogue fab kit for my drill press I will use less fluid. Lowest rpm on it is 300 so it flings it everywhere. Till then I just make sure masonite is below and behind the press

 

[r3dd0g]

I use this stuff:

It's foamy and sticky so it stays where you need it. They sell it at the Harbor Freight by my house so it's easy for me to get. WD-40 is not a good cutting fluid and that is probably why you broke the bit.

 

[Greg72]

Broken Link....

I was reading up on annular cutters and learned that I made a couple other mistakes:

1. Don't pull up on the bit partway through to clear the chips. The cutter is self-cleaning
2. Use steady pressure and keep the bit moving. If you feed too slowly it can bind up.


My "tuition" is being paid every day on this build. Just spent some more $$$ replacing the broken bit, and hopefully learned my lesson.

-G

 

[r3dd0g]

I fixed the link for the picture, if not it's just CRC cutting oil in an aerosol can

 

[bigblock72]

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=5/8+rotobroach

Try those.

The CRC lube works quite well.

www.kimballmidwest.com/Catalog/CatalogIndex.aspx?p=3889

The best lube I've found for annular cutters, even works good when drilling springs with regular drill bits.

 

[82355]

Was that cutter not warrantied?

Martin

 

[Greg72]

Was that cutter not warrantied?

Martin

Honestly, I never even thought about that!

I bought them from SnapOn.com directly. Not sure how to request a replacement cutter?

I found it interesting that the entire kit sells for $150, but the individual cutter was something like $77!!

-G

 

[mtnman]

Honestly, I never even thought about that!

I bought them from SnapOn.com directly. Not sure how to request a replacement cutter?

I found it interesting that the entire kit sells for $150, but the individual cutter was something like $77!!

-G

From personal experience: No warranty on "cutting tools". I have the same set, broken several cutters, had to buy replacements from my Snap on man....

 

[bp71k5]

Just buy a new set and think of all the money you just saved on all the other cutters in the set.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Honestly, I never even thought about that!

I bought them from SnapOn.com directly. Not sure how to request a replacement cutter?

I found it interesting that the entire kit sells for $150, but the individual cutter was something like $77!!

-G

Greg, what is the part number on the set? I was just talking to my Snappy man today and he said those were discontinued (at least part numbers GA219A / GA219B). Funny that I did find GA219B on their website though.

 

[Greg72]

 

[JDNobodi]

That snap on kit is not a re-branded Blair kit?
If it is a re-branded kit, you can get replacement cutters from the link above or Mc Master Carr.

 

[Greg72]

2014.06.16 - UPDATE! - LET'S GET SOMETHING STRAIGHT RIGHT NOW...

I swear that the reason my truck build is taking so long is because every part gets built at least 2 or 3 times.

Case in point: Steering Arm v2 heading into the scrap pile.... Time to build v3

Here's how the arms look after some plasma cutting. As you can see, the appearance at this point is FAR from "laser-cut"...

It takes about an hour to get a bracket like this cleaned up with nice sharp finished edges.

With these larger steering arm plates it is possible to rework the draglink (again, for at least the 3rd time!!!) to get rid of the ugly bend that I had to put in it. Ultimately, the draglink is really shallow these days... To match the PHB, it only needs to be 2.8*

With some new brackets tacked in place I pulled out the original draglink and made a new one....

There was quite a bit of fussing around on the PS steering arm to get everything installed correctly, and now that the holes on that arm are now offset by 2-3/4" from each other I need to rework the linkages on the idler a bit more too... But here's the final result from yesterday.

Much cleaner, I think.



ps. A big shout out to JekquistK5 for that cutting fluid recommendation.... Amazon delivered it on Friday and I had a chance to use it this weekend. MUCH nicer than WD-40, and the applicator spout makes it a lot simpler to apply it where it needs to go during the cutting process. Saves me a ton of mess and cleanup.



-G

 

[imiceman44]

I was going to say wd40 is not a good cutting fluid and he posted this. ..
I learned about cutting fluids after I burned a few good drill bits.

 

[y5mgisi]

Looks much better now.