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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
Assuming the tapered chunk is like one of those pieces that fits into the end of a tube and welds on, I'd flip the bolt around and tap that tapered chunk with a 1/2"-13 thread. And get rid of the shoulder on the other side like was mentioned.
 
Also the greater the angle on the truncated cone the easier it will be to get out of the socket while still aligning the two pieces. Use the bolt for the holding portion and the socket assembly for alignment.
 
Greg72 said:
For the evening crew...

Rockslider Mount v2.0

B94AD1B7-8ABB-4CEF-A71E-640712331E1B.jpg


Discuss....critique.......analyze.

:thinking:


-G
Click to expand...

Genious...PURE genious! :bow: :bow: :pimp: :pimp:
 
GREAT FEEDBACK GUYS!!!


I agree, the shouldered side was a mistake... no reason to put that there now that I've studied it a bit more. It only serves to prevent the taper from doing it's job.

The taper should also be maybe 1/8" shorter than the receiver so that it doesn't "bottom out" on the washer.... this would also defeat the purpose of the taper.

I like the idea of getting rid of the encapsulated bolt as well. Doing a direct-thread into the end of the taper makes the machining simpler and has a very nice side effect. When trying to remove the rocksliders, I can back that bolt head off maybe 1/4" and then smack the bolt head with a hammer to free up the tapered areas. My original design would require me to hammer on the threads... and that's just going to create a big mushroomy mess that the nut will never thread to again. :D

Nice work everyone! :bow:


-G
 
I like the thought of running the fender halves so close to save seat space but remember suspension movement. As you cycle that axle, the shocks going to move closer to the seat and inner fender.
 
Another question - now that you have me thinking about this!

Are you envisioning the taper to be conical or two planes?

If it were to be intersecting planes instead of conical, here is one way that I envision you could get there...

I'm not sure how many mounts you are envisioning - but if it were to be just two, you could incorporate the diamond pin style set up...

Here is quick sketch of what I'm thinking...

 
THopper said:
I like the thought of running the fender halves so close to save seat space but remember suspension movement. As you cycle that axle, the shocks going to move closer to the seat and inner fender.
Click to expand...

Absolutely!

This is just an early mock-up.... the lower mount can be moved just a little further out (toward the tire) if needed, and the wheelwell can get wider if the strut body hits it. I've got to get a few more pieces tacked into place and then I can start doing some actual cycling tests to see what works, and what doesn't.

I have a strange obsession with trying to preserve the functionality of this truck enough that I can still use it to go to Home Depot and buy 4'x8' sheets of plywood or drywall. From memory, I think the 1st Gens had 51" of space between the wheeltubs, so I'm trying REALLLY hard to insure that I've got at least 48" there when I'm all done.

From the looks of my first attempt, I'm already down to 49"... so there isn't much more room to negotiate, but I'll keep fighting for it. :waytogo:


-G
 
IGOR said:
Another question - now that you have me thinking about this!

Are you envisioning the taper to be conical or two planes?

If it were to be intersecting planes instead of conical, here is one way that I envision you could get there...

I'm not sure how many mounts you are envisioning - but if it were to be just two, you could incorporate the diamond pin style set up...

Here is quick sketch of what I'm thinking...
Click to expand...


Ben,

I'm trying to keep this simple (HAHAHAHAHA, right?)....

I selected the 2" x .500" wall DOM for my tapered solution (conical) because I already own the material. It was used to build my rear lower links originally, so I've got about 8' of it just sitting around now.

What I like about it is that it adds a LOT of wall thickness to the areas in that square tubing where Heath reminded me that I'd lost a lot of strength. It also has a 1/2" hole already running through the center of it, so I can get that tapped for whatever the next largest thread size/pitch bolt is. It seems like I can use that same material for the "male" portion of this setup as well.... so from a materials cost perspective, this experiment is basically free.

I just need to find someone locally to do the machine work and make those tapers for me. I have no idea how complex (or simple) that type of machine process is, or what it will cost to have done... but obviously, I'll need 10 of each part to swap into both rockers. The other nice thing, is that the rework is minimal to incorporate this new design. I just need to grind out a few spot welds on the current 2" DOM sleeves and pop them out... then slide these new machined pieces in place. :waytogo:


-G
 
Greg72 said:
Ben,

I'm trying to keep this simple (HAHAHAHAHA, right?)....

I selected the 2" x .500" wall DOM for my tapered solution (conical) because I already own the material. It was used to build my rear lower links originally, so I've got about 8' of it just sitting around now.

What I like about it is that it adds a LOT of wall thickness to the areas in that square tubing where Heath reminded me that I'd lost a lot of strength. It also has a 1/2" hole already running through the center of it, so I can get that tapped for whatever the next largest thread size/pitch bolt is. It seems like I can use that same material for the "male" portion of this setup as well.... so from a materials cost perspective, this experiment is basically free.

I just need to find someone locally to do the machine work and make those tapers for me. I have no idea how complex (or simple) that type of machine process is, or what it will cost to have done... but obviously, I'll need 10 of each part to swap into both rockers. The other nice thing, is that the rework is minimal to incorporate this new design. I just need to grind out a few spot welds on the current 2" DOM sleeves and pop them out... then slide these new machined pieces in place. :waytogo:


-G
Click to expand...

CNC machining of those tapers......piece of cake.
If I lived closer to you I would be happy to do them for you.
 
Greg what are you going to do about the large span of tube between the shock mount and the c pillar? Unless you use a larger or thicker tube with some plating to spread the load I don't know how you would reduce the number of tubes showing?
 
sreidmx said:
Greg what are you going to do about the large span of tube between the shock mount and the c pillar? Unless you use a larger or thicker tube with some plating to spread the load I don't know how you would reduce the number of tubes showing?
Click to expand...

I don't know exactly how it's going to work, yet.....

The next step is to run a second parallel tube from the rear C-pillar at the same height as the bedrail tube, keeping them about 6 - 8" apart. That will create a space between them for the strut, and the associated mounting brackets.... but you're right, it's a long unsupported span of tubing that needs "something" to keep it from flexing upward when the weight of the truck is loaded onto those struts.

I think it's going to be a combination of that strong diagonal bar I showed earlier (from the rock slider up to the bedrail)... and maybe one additional bar that will land behind the wheeltub (toward the tailgate). I will need to build another beefy cross sill underneath for it to land on.

Still thinking.... I should look at some Desert Truck forums or something before I get into the garage on Sunday. That might give me some inspiration. :D


-G
 
Yes that's a wise idea, it's amazing how much less tube you can use if you place them properly.. No need to go all pirate 4x4 on it lol.
 
Greg72 said:
Ben,

I'm trying to keep this simple (HAHAHAHAHA, right?)....

I selected the 2" x .500" wall DOM for my tapered solution (conical) because I already own the material. It was used to build my rear lower links originally, so I've got about 8' of it just sitting around now.

What I like about it is that it adds a LOT of wall thickness to the areas in that square tubing where Heath reminded me that I'd lost a lot of strength. It also has a 1/2" hole already running through the center of it, so I can get that tapped for whatever the next largest thread size/pitch bolt is. It seems like I can use that same material for the "male" portion of this setup as well.... so from a materials cost perspective, this experiment is basically free.

I just need to find someone locally to do the machine work and make those tapers for me. I have no idea how complex (or simple) that type of machine process is, or what it will cost to have done... but obviously, I'll need 10 of each part to swap into both rockers. The other nice thing, is that the rework is minimal to incorporate this new design. I just need to grind out a few spot welds on the current 2" DOM sleeves and pop them out... then slide these new machined pieces in place. :waytogo:


-G
Click to expand...

Ok, so your math must be a little off. A 2" OD tube with a .500" wall would mean there is a 1.00" hole in the middle NOT a .500" hole. :deal:
 
Ooooops.... You're right. :doah:

That makes more sense, since they were originally threaded for a 1-1/4" heim.


Either way, I'd love to recycle that tubing somehow and get it out of my tuition pile. :D


-G
 
I like the taper idea but the receiver tube still has some merit as well.

You can split the male portion of the receiver tube and make a hole at the end of the split. Then weld nuts inside the male half.

Once you've done that, you can bolt the receiver the male end into the female end for a real tight fit with no alignment issues.
 
Both ideas seem like they'd work well. At least you can pull off the body panels when you go wheeling to offset the extra weight of all the crazy tube work and sliders. Wish I had the skills you are putting out. And a garage to work out of. I've been watching your truck Since 2001 or so when I first found ck5. So many mods and upgrades over the years. I need to go back to Page one again just to see where it's been over the years.
 
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