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I don't think that it's very funny using a pic of my rig and just painting the tubes red to use as your example. :D :haha:


What are ya planning for a disco on the 45 bar down to the slider?


Actually, I was channeling the old 1st Gen SEMA truck (GMC version IIRC) that I remember from several years back that was tubed-out in a spiderweb themed roll cage..... it scared me then, and the memory scares me again now! :haha:

Good eye! I'm going to need to eventually build a plate setup for that diagonal brace like the rest of the cage feet have.... using my bad math skillz, that will put me at a 10-point rollcage thus far. I didn't want to get bogged-down with that last night, and I kind of want to get the entire strut hanger figured out before I dedicate a lot of time to those sorts of details..... my scrap pile is already chock-full of "high dollar / high man-hour" ideas that didn't quite work out. :D:doah:



-G
 
Spider web cage is crazy. Would never need that one unless you plan on rolling off the side of a 100 foot cliff upside down. I'm sure your ten point will be adequate for dune running and rock crawling. Strut area looking good. Definitely don't forget your cup holders. Every good build has them incorporated somewhere. Haha
 
Spider web cage is crazy. Would never need that one unless you plan on rolling off the side of a 100 foot cliff upside down. I'm sure your ten point will be adequate for dune running and rock crawling. Strut area looking good. Definitely don't forget your cup holders. Every good build has them incorporated somewhere. Haha


I've been told my cage looks built for this :D.
 
'72 K5 - Greg's "Might As Well™" Build - !!! THE LONGEST FISHMOUTH...!!!

Brian,

I'll have to got check my notes, but I'm pretty sure the stock spacing between the wheeltubs is 51".... I'm at about 48.5" now (best estimate) which is just about maxed-out. The factory seat is a touch wider at the front, and gets narrower in the seatbelt area. No matter what, I'm going to have to cut it down (or buy a custom-fit) suspension bench seat that matches visually....
-G


I went out and measured mine for fun. I get 49-3/4" between the inside of the wheel tubs. Not that it matters but your still pretty close to stock. Unless someone narrowed mine by 1/2" on each side. Maybe GM tolerances back in the day weren't so great?
 
2014.11.20 - UPDATE! - !!! WHITE WHEELS & HUBCAPS RETURN...!!!

Took a small break from the rear tubing exercise to take advantage of an offer for some free CNC time from a local friend of mine.

I'd been thinking about the best way to fit an undersized 16.5" wheel center into the 17" hoops that I bought, and decided to just experiment a little bit and see where it took me.

The first order of business was to prep the wheel center. Each of the 4 mounting flanges had 3 through-holes for the factory rivets. I decided to weld those up solid and then redrill them from the rim-side later on. Trying to get a drill on the inside of the finished & assembled wheel would be a nightmare anyway.

IMG_1945.jpg


Then I decided that instead of trying to hand-fit a thin shim of steel between the centers and the hoop, I'd try building up the flanges with my MIG welder. I only needed about .040" of an inch so it seemed like a simple enough idea......

But it wasn't:

IMG_1947.jpg


It took FOREVER to get a setting that worked and didn't just pour a bunch of unnecessary heat into the flanges. Obviously, I pulled the trigger about ONE TRILLION TIMES to get all those tack welds on there.

After a couple of hours I had all 4 sides completed.

IMG_1953.jpg


Last night, I took the parts over to my friends shop and he set up the parts to do a nice match-fitting of the center to the hoop.

IMG_1958.jpg


I've never spent any time in a machine shop, and it was REALLY cool to see how the CNC was "indexed" to the part to set the "X' and "Y" axis dimensions and just how simple it was to ask it for a circle program to then cut material away. We did a lot of checking and double-checking and took VERY small bites out of the material to confirm everything was working right. As it turned out, the hoops were actually quite good dimensionally right from the vendor, so we only removed a few thousandths from the mounting surface and ended up with a perfect landing spot for the wheel center.

The wheel center ended up being a bit of a disappointment. Although the welding didn't distort the part, the welds themselves were really inconsistent in their depth and spacing... so even after we trimmed it down (to leave a 0.005" interference fit with the hoop) there were still a LOT of craters and voids in the welded areas.

Here's a shot when we were about 1/2 way through the machining process.... the flanges got a lot more uniform later on, but they still had significant "pockmarks" everywhere.

IMG_1963.jpg


Live and learn! :doah:

The good part of the evening was the test fit of the wheel center and outer hoop. We settled on a 0.005" fitment and that ended up being snug enough that the center would start to drop into place, but required some firm tapping with a hammer to set it all the way in. Not too loose, and not too tight either! :waytogo:

The next step will be for me to go back a second time and weld-up low spots in the 4 flanges and remachine it to get a nice, flat surface with 100% surface contact to the hoop. For the remaining 4 wheel centers, I have decided to cut strips of 1/8" steel, bend them to fit to contour of the flanges and then perimeter weld, and plug weld them into place. That will give us a much nicer starting point for the machining, and the end-result will be better quality and less effort.


-G
 
Is there going to be anything on this truck that you just buy and install???:haha::haha::haha:

Every update on here just gets me more and more ready to see this thing completed and on the cover of a magazine or 6!
 
Should be a lot easier to just add material. That's a huge area to try to do with a welder. You have anything built to check runout?
 
Greg,

I'm curious why you are worried about dumping too much heat onto the wheel flanges if you are going to CNC trim them after anyway? I would have expected you to run a big fat hot bead on top.
 
Should be a lot easier to just add material. That's a huge area to try to do with a welder. You have anything built to check runout?

Eric,

Which kind of runout are you asking aboot?? Radial? Lateral?

I bought a magnetic base dial-indicator from Amazon a couple weeks ago. I've never used one, but I figure I can somehow use that to check for lateral runout when I'm trying to set the position of the hoop relative to the center. :thinking:

-G
 
Greg,

I'm curious why you are worried about dumping too much heat onto the wheel flanges if you are going to CNC trim them after anyway? I would have expected you to run a big fat hot bead on top.

it's very hard to get a wheel using mix and matched parts to an acceptable runout. Any warping of the center anywhere inside of the machined off parts could ruin the center.

making wheels is a good time but consumes a ton of time
.
 
Eric,

Which kind of runout are you asking aboot?? Radial? Lateral?

I bought a magnetic base dial-indicator from Amazon a couple weeks ago. I've never used one, but I figure I can somehow use that to check for lateral runout when I'm trying to set the position of the hoop relative to the center. :thinking:

-G

Lateral mostly. With the machining you should end up with good radial run out although I would check it.

I built a fixture out of an old trailer spindle and hub. This was way before trail ready was re-centering H1 wheels had an adaptor to use 8 lugs machined to put on it. Cost me about 75 bucks to get done but the runout on the fixture was less than .004. Which on a wheel is stupid small. I then used different tightness on the lug nuts and tapping with a hammer to get em straight. Which is semi impossible when using H1 shells.

Unfortunately my fixture was borrowed by a former friend and I haven't seen it since.
 
Dial indicator is what I used to. I have also mapped out the runout on a wheel hub and done it that way
 
I don't even understand this question.



-G

Have you decided where you're going to mine for the minerals to make your paint? Because if you're going to make BB 2018, you're going to need to get those mining claims set up soon. :deal:
 
his paint color choices are the most normal/sane part of the build...
 
his paint color choices are the most normal/sane part of the build...

Just wait. I don't see any paint cans in his pics. :D All of a sudden we're going to start seeing pics of body panels in colors that are from the infrared spectrum... Or ultraviolet if he's feeling spunky. Because he "might as well..."
 
Actually, I was channeling the old 1st Gen SEMA truck (GMC version IIRC) that I remember from several years back that was tubed-out in a spiderweb themed roll cage..... it scared me then, and the memory scares me again now! :haha:

Good eye! I'm going to need to eventually build a plate setup for that diagonal brace like the rest of the cage feet have.... using my bad math skillz, that will put me at a 10-point rollcage thus far. I didn't want to get bogged-down with that last night, and I kind of want to get the entire strut hanger figured out before I dedicate a lot of time to those sorts of details..... my scrap pile is already chock-full of "high dollar / high man-hour" ideas that didn't quite work out. :D:doah:



-G

Greg,

that support tube that goes from the strut area down to the rock slider, will that be solid mounted? I remember you spent all that time figuring out how to make your cage removable (and maybe removable body from frame). But if that tube is just welded in, that ties Frame, body and cage in solid. Will you add plates like you did on the other roll cage-body connections??
 
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