I will ask my buddy about the tempar pedic foam.
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I would have loved to have cooled seats in mine. Both the old foam versions and the suspension seats are hot, even with the top off and the wind blowing. I've seen some small seat inserts you can get that pump coolant through them. Used for drag racing I think.
My father just had katskins degreez installed in his Duramax. They get cold and hot, they are actual cold seat pads, my cts-v has recaro vented/cold seats, they're not that, those and just a fan. The katskins deal gets cold and has a fan than blows air. My butt crack was legitimately cold.
I plan on putting them into my highlander, with the oem plaid highlander upholstery.
Katzkin, which supplies leather seat replacement, is offering an aftermarket heating and cooling kit that not only heats seats in the winter, but cools them in the summer.
The new DegreeZ system is the only aftermarket kit with both heating and cooling, says Katzkin, although luxury car models offer the feature from the factory.
If it’s 90 degrees outside, the driver hits a button and the seat starts to cool. If it’s cold out, you hit a button and it cools off.
The kits uses an electrical voltage system that creates both hot and cool air, known as the Peltier effect. When the current runs one way, you get hot air, and when it runs the opposite way you get cold air. It takes an experienced installed about 1 1/2 hours per seat to install. and costs $995 suggested retail price per seat (by comparison a heating only element costs $399).
Katzkin currently works with about 2,000 restyling dealers in addition to Tint World and Car Max.
I plan on putting them into my highlander, with the oem plaid highlander upholstery.
Katzkin, which supplies leather seat replacement, is offering an aftermarket heating and cooling kit that not only heats seats in the winter, but cools them in the summer.
The new DegreeZ system is the only aftermarket kit with both heating and cooling, says Katzkin, although luxury car models offer the feature from the factory.
If it’s 90 degrees outside, the driver hits a button and the seat starts to cool. If it’s cold out, you hit a button and it cools off.
The kits uses an electrical voltage system that creates both hot and cool air, known as the Peltier effect. When the current runs one way, you get hot air, and when it runs the opposite way you get cold air. It takes an experienced installed about 1 1/2 hours per seat to install. and costs $995 suggested retail price per seat (by comparison a heating only element costs $399).
Katzkin currently works with about 2,000 restyling dealers in addition to Tint World and Car Max.
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Memory foam has a different point density than latex, meaning it follows the contours more closely. It also has basically no bounce to it compared to latex. Because of it's lack of bounce actually feels hard to some people. The thing about memory foam that may make or break it for cars is they're temperature sensitive. They tend to get softer when it's warmer.
I heard a rumor that NorCal69 is going to declare an MPS (Man Point Sunday) event today....???
Anyone down?
I think I'll start by pulling the truck out of the garage and let it bask in the sunshine for a while while I figure out a plan to maximize my point totals?
-G
Anyone down?
I think I'll start by pulling the truck out of the garage and let it bask in the sunshine for a while while I figure out a plan to maximize my point totals?
-G
Lol, I almost texted you at 3;30 this morning to see if you were balled up in the fetal position, scared and all of the Mighty NorCal69's Fabrication Reunion Tour. 
I say "MNFRT" around the house, to keep if short.
The high spot on the podium, these feet shall be standing on today......bitchez.... 
Game on!
I say "MNFRT" around the house, to keep if short.
The high spot on the podium, these feet shall be standing on today......bitchez....
Game on!
Lol, I almost texted you at 3;30 this morning to see if you were balled up in the fetal position, scared and all of the Mighty NorCal69's Fabrication Reunion Tour.
I say "MNFRT" around the house, to keep if short.
The high spot on the podium, these feet shall be standing on today......bitchez....
Game on!
Need a hand? I'm free this afternoon
A PM was sent way early this morning.
So Greg, are you ready to take the second tier of the podium yet? Pretty sure the top is all but filled up!
A PM was sent way early this morning.
So Greg, are you ready to take the second tier of the podium yet? Pretty sure the top is all but filled up!
Day's not over yet pal....!!! I've got 4 more hours till midnight!
-G
Lol, screw that...... I'm thirsty. Going to see if I can still get an upload in before the beer fridge sucks me in. 
I raked the yard, cut a muffler off and picked up dog poop.. I win right???!!!!!!?????????????????
2016.04.18 - UDPATE! - NOW 95% RUST-FREE.....!!!!
For anyone who doesn't know about 1st Gens..... that means that I've now thrown away 95% of the original truck!!
Here's how it all went down on an impromptu "MPS" weekend:
Weather was AWESOME all weekend, so I used it as an excuse to roll the truck out of the garage for a change of scenery.
It was a bit disheartening to see how much flash-rust was on all the tubing, etc... so I spend a couple of hours sanding and cleaning, then wiping everything down with Boeshield T-9 so hopefully I won't have to deal with that again before the truck gets blown apart for paintwork.
I've got two different shops working to prepare items for the new rear bedfloor and permanent rollcage installation. I should be getting the first parts this week, but in the meantime I still needed to cut a total of 6 cagebars that were welded through the floor to the frame below. To make the cage removable (and to allow me to install the new bedfloor in a single piece) I need to convert those tubes to plate-style floor mounts just like all the others. I had the measurements accurately figured out and clamped a section of 1"x2" rectangular tube to act as a cutting guide for my Sawzall so that the cut wouldn't end up being a complete hack-job.
I had to pull the rear wheel to get the correct angle with the Sawzall and to get some decent working room, but with a little patience I got the 3 cuts completed on the passenger side:
The driver's side was a bit trickier because there was an entire bedside in the way! So I decided that I'd go for a "2 fer".... get the access I needed, while also removing a TON of rusty metal in one fell swoop!!!
Dropped that rear section out onto the floor, and immediately ended up with a really cool "racecar looking" view of the truck...
That gave access to the cage bars that needed cutting on the DS, and with the cutting guide / Sawzall trick it worked out great. After dinner, and spending some time with the family I went back out into the garage to do in final bit of rust removal. The rear bedfloor had already been chopped into 3 large pieces (with the center removed quite a while ago)....and at this point, the only thing holding the rearmost section in place were a few tack welds on the rear temporary cage plates..... a few seconds of grinding was all it took:
So at this point, I've removed and thrown away:
About the only parts left to throw away are:
And the only remaining rust will be the stuff inside the original windshield frame. I'm not really sure how to get inside those cavities to deal with the rust, but I'd like to figure something out. Realistically I'm down to only a windshield frame and firewall.... so maybe I could just throw that part on the roof of my truck and just drive to the closest chemical dipper and have them deal with it....
-G
For anyone who doesn't know about 1st Gens..... that means that I've now thrown away 95% of the original truck!!
Here's how it all went down on an impromptu "MPS" weekend:
Weather was AWESOME all weekend, so I used it as an excuse to roll the truck out of the garage for a change of scenery.
It was a bit disheartening to see how much flash-rust was on all the tubing, etc... so I spend a couple of hours sanding and cleaning, then wiping everything down with Boeshield T-9 so hopefully I won't have to deal with that again before the truck gets blown apart for paintwork.
I've got two different shops working to prepare items for the new rear bedfloor and permanent rollcage installation. I should be getting the first parts this week, but in the meantime I still needed to cut a total of 6 cagebars that were welded through the floor to the frame below. To make the cage removable (and to allow me to install the new bedfloor in a single piece) I need to convert those tubes to plate-style floor mounts just like all the others. I had the measurements accurately figured out and clamped a section of 1"x2" rectangular tube to act as a cutting guide for my Sawzall so that the cut wouldn't end up being a complete hack-job.
I had to pull the rear wheel to get the correct angle with the Sawzall and to get some decent working room, but with a little patience I got the 3 cuts completed on the passenger side:
The driver's side was a bit trickier because there was an entire bedside in the way!
So I decided that I'd go for a "2 fer".... get the access I needed, while also removing a TON of rusty metal in one fell swoop!!!
Dropped that rear section out onto the floor, and immediately ended up with a really cool "racecar looking" view of the truck...
That gave access to the cage bars that needed cutting on the DS, and with the cutting guide / Sawzall trick it worked out great. After dinner, and spending some time with the family I went back out into the garage to do in final bit of rust removal. The rear bedfloor had already been chopped into 3 large pieces (with the center removed quite a while ago)....and at this point, the only thing holding the rearmost section in place were a few tack welds on the rear temporary cage plates..... a few seconds of grinding was all it took:
So at this point, I've removed and thrown away:
- Front fenders
- Core Support
- Inner Fenders
- Firewall
- Cab Supports and 50% of front floors
- Doors
- Rear Bedsides
- Rear Bedfloor
About the only parts left to throw away are:
- Remainder of rear bedfloor
- Vertical step panel into rear area
- Front floors (again)
And the only remaining rust will be the stuff inside the original windshield frame. I'm not really sure how to get inside those cavities to deal with the rust, but I'd like to figure something out. Realistically I'm down to only a windshield frame and firewall.... so maybe I could just throw that part on the roof of my truck and just drive to the closest chemical dipper and have them deal with it....
-G
Very impressive work as usual Greg!
-G
That sure is a cool looking photo now that I can see it on a bigger screen. Tough to see it on my phone last night and actually grasp it.
Just an insane amount of incredible work there. I almost forgot that you hacked off the rear portion of the frame too.
You Crazy. lol
Thanks bud.
Heading out to the garage now to see if I can get that last section of bed floor removed.
-G
Heading out to the garage now to see if I can get that last section of bed floor removed.
-G
Heading out to the garage now to see if I can get that last section of bed floor removed.
-G
Work as hard and as long as you want, because we all know what truly matters......
I kicked your ass yesterday.
Work as hard and as long as you want, because we all know what truly matters......
I kicked your ass yesterday.
Until your weld broke.
-G
I'm not entirely convinced this is a blazer anymore...
