I guess I just suck at flaring stuff lol.
I hate normal flaring tools. Only used fancy ones once but that was enough
I hate normal flaring tools. Only used fancy ones once but that was enough
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
I'd be surprised if that flaring tool was able to flare stainless. I tried to use the same style of flaring tool to re-flare some factory hardlines and the tool just pushed the tube out of the grip without flaring at all. It worked just fine on normal fuel lines you get from parts stores, but not so much on harder factory stuff. I don't know how hard stainless is compared to that, but I wouldn't expect good results. Admittedly, your flaring tool is Snap On, so probably better quality, so maybe you'll have better luck. I ended up having to borrow a tool similar to the eastwood one in order to get my flares done.
AFA the tubing bender goes, I had the same one. It did work, and made for nice bends, but on the hard stuff I did eventually break the handle off of it and had to buy a new one. Heating the tube does help, but it was really hard for me to get an even heating so the tube would bend smoothly and not just at wherever was hottest. I ended up giving up on heating and just doing it cold for more consistent bends.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Greg, heres some advice, unless of course you just want to learn the process of tube flaring, bending, etc.
Bend up all the tubes in regular plain steel tube put the style fittings on each end (or just label each end with the fitting style you want) and then send them over to InlineTube and have them duplicate them for you in stainless. I had some fuel lines done that way and it came out well and wasn't outrageously priced. They even have a way to ship really long lines in a way that's super easy to straighten out if you need that.
Anyway, that's an option I thought I'd throw out there.
I've used a tube bending tool like you have and it works great on plain steel, not so good on stainless.
I've also used a flaring tool like that style (but cheaper HF) and it works ok on plain steel for a short time, but stainless never gave me a good flare. The snappy is bound to be tons better quality, but I've read a lot about an Eastwood flaring tool that works tons better and includes some more extra dies to do bubble flares and other less common stuff.
Bend up all the tubes in regular plain steel tube put the style fittings on each end (or just label each end with the fitting style you want) and then send them over to InlineTube and have them duplicate them for you in stainless. I had some fuel lines done that way and it came out well and wasn't outrageously priced. They even have a way to ship really long lines in a way that's super easy to straighten out if you need that.
Anyway, that's an option I thought I'd throw out there.
I've used a tube bending tool like you have and it works great on plain steel, not so good on stainless.
I've also used a flaring tool like that style (but cheaper HF) and it works ok on plain steel for a short time, but stainless never gave me a good flare. The snappy is bound to be tons better quality, but I've read a lot about an Eastwood flaring tool that works tons better and includes some more extra dies to do bubble flares and other less common stuff.
The more I think about it..... the more I am willing to buy a nicer, and 100% proven flaring tool that will do stainless tube. The Eastwood tool that Eric posted looked pretty slick, and it appears to be a rebranded version from another manufacturer.
Ultimately, I need to flare fuel lines, brake lines, CTIS lines, maybe even some breather lines to consolidate everything coming out of the 3rds, portal boxes, and fuel tank?
-G
Ultimately, I need to flare fuel lines, brake lines, CTIS lines, maybe even some breather lines to consolidate everything coming out of the 3rds, portal boxes, and fuel tank?
-G
I used @bigblock72 bender. Maybe he can chime in on which brand it was.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I'd also avoid consolidating any breather lines from multiple sources especially where gear oil is involved. If heat pushes any oil vaporized air up a line, the oil can eventually cool out of the air and collect in the line and then contaminate other stuff if it gets up far enough. I've had more trouble with that than I care to think about.The more I think about it..... the more I am willing to buy a nicer, and 100% proven flaring tool that will do stainless tube. The Eastwood tool that Eric posted looked pretty slick, and it appears to be a rebranded version from another manufacturer.
Ultimately, I need to flare fuel lines, brake lines, CTIS lines, maybe even some breather lines to consolidate everything coming out of the 3rds, portal boxes, and fuel tank?
-G
COOL!!!
I have thought for a while about getting a set of extra long hoses with some of these "valved" connectors so that I could use the expensive PowerPak on my tubing bender to drive other hydraulic devices (presses, crimpers, etc) Being able to disconnect the fluid lines quickly and with minimal fluid loss would make it really convenient to switch between devices and could also be a real space-saver in my shop (which is already at it's practical limit for large tools)
-G
I just got through making a lot of stainless fuel and brake lines. The only soft lines I'll have on the truck are from the tank to the frame, and engine to the frame. All lines around the motor are stainless as well. I will say that the correct tools make all the difference in the world.
Flare:
A few years back, I bought one of those hand-hydraulic pumps to make 37 and 45 degree flares. It works well and I was very happy with it up until I used a friends flare tool from Eastwood. You clamp it in the vice which frees up a hand and overall makes the process MUCH easier <- my opinion. The Eastwood tool is rated for stainless line and hasn't shown any issues so far.
Koul Tools makes a lapping tool that will polish the inside of your flared hard line to an almost mirror finish. It pretty much eliminates the seam that you'll noticed on stainless lines after the flare. Helps eliminate any potential leaks.
Bender: The more the better. I have used all types of hand flare tools from large to small. I have also used some 3/4 MDF cut to the shape that I want and bent the stainless over that.
Flare:
A few years back, I bought one of those hand-hydraulic pumps to make 37 and 45 degree flares. It works well and I was very happy with it up until I used a friends flare tool from Eastwood. You clamp it in the vice which frees up a hand and overall makes the process MUCH easier <- my opinion. The Eastwood tool is rated for stainless line and hasn't shown any issues so far.
Koul Tools makes a lapping tool that will polish the inside of your flared hard line to an almost mirror finish. It pretty much eliminates the seam that you'll noticed on stainless lines after the flare. Helps eliminate any potential leaks.
Bender: The more the better. I have used all types of hand flare tools from large to small. I have also used some 3/4 MDF cut to the shape that I want and bent the stainless over that.
I have a bunch of different benders, some I like, some I don't. It comes down to personal preference really. Buy a bunch of benders and see what works best for you.
I like these for brake lines: http://www.cornwelltools.com/webcat/products/LS44070-%2d-1{47}4”Tbng-Bender-Pliers.html
http://www.cornwelltools.com/webcat/products/LS44150-%2d-3{47}16”-Tubing-Bender-Plier.html
As far as a flaring tool there is only one I can recommend; the Mastercool hydraulic, for around $280 it will do most everything effortlessly, even stainless. I have used every other style of flaring tool there is and threw them all in the garbage. $$$$ I know but what is your time worth? The Mastercool will do 37 degree with the 71098 die set (75ish off of ebay).
Speaking of lines, have you considered moving the fuel pressure regulator back by the tank? You would only have one fuel line running to the motor and save some money and hassle.
Good flaring tool for the win.
Watching the Eastwood flaring tool video makes me want to get one and flare some stuff.
I have one of the east wood flaring tools, it turned a job I dreaded into a job i enjoy.
You talkin' about the big vise-mounted one with the long handle and replaceable flaring heads? ~$200?
Got a lot of cool suggestions here in the last 24 hours... sounds like it's going to be an expensive weekend!
-G
Yes, have it for double flare and 37*. Works awesome. I used another tool for 37* that is used in the airplane side of things that worked awesome too, but the Eastwood handles everything.
As far as other fittings, I just skimmed so excuse me if I repeat. But Russel, earls, fragola, all fantastic, the fabric braded line is awesome to use, stainless hard line looks awesome, but can become a pain, it's good your thinking about it now. I forget who we get our clamps from, but look on the street rod side of Things there are multiple options. Aluminum hardline is really easy, a good straightener is required to took really nice. With all the obstacles in your chassis, I think I'd go with a braided soft line, or aluminum hard.
As far as other fittings, I just skimmed so excuse me if I repeat. But Russel, earls, fragola, all fantastic, the fabric braded line is awesome to use, stainless hard line looks awesome, but can become a pain, it's good your thinking about it now. I forget who we get our clamps from, but look on the street rod side of Things there are multiple options. Aluminum hardline is really easy, a good straightener is required to took really nice. With all the obstacles in your chassis, I think I'd go with a braided soft line, or aluminum hard.
Thanks for the info.
What's the "pain" about Stainless?..... just the difficulty in forming / flaring it, or some other durability concern?
As you know, I'm a pretty stubborn guy so I'm not afraid to put in the extra effort for a better quality result. Stainless just seems like a top-shelf material for this type of application once you figure out the special tools and techniques to form it correctly....
ps. That tool that does the lapping of the finished flare just seems TOO cool.... something about the thought of a perfectly polished fitting and the way it must seal-up perfectly seems really satisfying.
-G
Yea, your bends have to be perfect, once it's bent there isn't much "oh shit I went to far let me pull it up a little"
It does look the nicest. That Red Buick I pictured early has stainless hard line with aluminum fittings. It's 17 years old and spent most of its life sitting with fuel in the lines. I had pull all the line and tank to clean everything and there wasn't any sign of corrosion. I said that to touch on stainless fittings probably not required I saw it being talked about earlier
It does look the nicest. That Red Buick I pictured early has stainless hard line with aluminum fittings. It's 17 years old and spent most of its life sitting with fuel in the lines. I had pull all the line and tank to clean everything and there wasn't any sign of corrosion. I said that to touch on stainless fittings probably not required I saw it being talked about earlier
Keep in mine that eastwood flare tool does not go up to 1/2" line which I would suggest you use. My next tool purchase will be the Mastercool 71475 which covers every style of flare up to 1/2" SAE and 10mm metric. You can choose to also buy the 37* adapters as well if you want to go that way.
