What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
4X4HIGH said:
Keep in mine that eastwood flare tool does not go up to 1/2" line which I would suggest you use. My next tool purchase will be the Mastercool 71475 which covers every style of flare up to 1/2" SAE and 10mm metric. You can choose to also buy the 37* adapters as well if you want to go that way.
Click to expand...

Scotty,

I think 1/2" is going to be overkill for an EFI system... I'm still looking at the Aeromotive fuel system designs and they are showing -6 (3/8") supports up to 825HP. The carburetor systems use lower pressure and seem to therefore need a larger hose size to get approriate fuel volumes.


:thinking:

-G
 
Deuling said:
Good flaring tool for the win.
Click to expand...
x2

I went back over every flare on the oil line portion of the intercooler project, something that would not have been necessary if I had used a better flaring tool. The Eastwood would've been handy, but I had the greatest challenge getting a clean AN flare on the 1/2" stuff - what I used on the engine oil side.

I eventually settled on a handheld from Rigid, and have been pleased. The side set screw is what drew me to their design (happened to visit their factory in the course of my day job) and just wish I had discovered this earlier.
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/precision-non-ratcheting-flare-tool

As always, I enjoy following your work.

David
 
The cost to go 1/2" versus 3/8" is very minimal but will cost a little more than double once he finds out that 1/2" was needed and has to redo all the lines.

What happened to the "MAW" theory that has been ongoing in this project. Doesn't seem too smart to skimp out now.
 
Wasn't getting the updates on this, but did you look into cupronickel - copper-nickle hard lines. Softer than steel and still rust resistant. Strong enough it's used for brake lines.
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Wasn't getting the updates on this, but did you look into cupronickel - copper-nickle hard lines. Softer than steel and still rust resistant. Strong enough it's used for brake lines.
Click to expand...

Someone mentioned that a few posts back... I guess that once I commit to getting the proposer tools to doing ANY of the lines in stainless, I might-as-well do them ALL in stainless... :)

I like a good challenge, and it sounds like stainless will be the most challenging (and rewarding) if I can pull it off!


-G
 
AEROMOTIVE UPDATE:

Spoke to their tech group today and got some interesting data.

First was that I absolutely can NOT use the Holley Hydramat with their intank pump system.

There are several reasons:
  • The Aeromotive positive-displacement pump design will not work properly with the mat. It's too restrictive.
  • The hydramat acts like a 15 micron "filter" and will become more restrictive over time as the pores get clogged with debris
  • The small "x" style mats are not going to support good flow, only the largest mats would have enough sustained flow. (Until they also started to clog up with debris)

So... I was kind of bummed because their in-tank system uses a foam baffle to keep the pumps submerged and prevent starvation. I have heard enough stories about fuel cell foam dissolving and clogging filters that I didn't want to deal with foam at all. However, it turns out their foam is NOT the same as typical fuel cell foam. It is some kind of aerospace application that they have lab tested for literally YEARS with all sorts of gas, alcohol, and additive mixes and it is completely stable and does not break down. :waytogo:

That made me feel a lot better about using their system "as-is"... it will do a pretty good job as a baffle system, but I will still build a small baffle box in my tank anyway just for an extra level of insurance.

Here's a video that shows the basic components and install. The one I was interested in has dual pumps so it can be used as a failover system, but could also be set up to use the second pump at WOT also...


-G
 
Considering my electric pump w 5/16" fittings is supposed to support 650 hp I think 3/8" line would be fine for your 502.
Ask Mike what Thumpers 555 has for lines, he's gotta be around 1000 hp on the bottle.
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Wasn't getting the updates on this, but did you look into cupronickel - copper-nickle hard lines. Softer than steel and still rust resistant. Strong enough it's used for brake lines.
Click to expand...

It's not rust resistant, they actually advertise it as corrosion proof.

It is the coolest stuff ever. One thing you can do with it since it is very flexible is make the radius super tight. Like tie a knot tight.

I really haven't used it much but I have talked to several guys who have plumbed their street rods with it. They all love it
 
Sounds like it may be faster to get the whole truck plumbed also.

Plus it has intrinsic value which is always a plus.
 
As someone who did all stainless brake lines, I wish I had heard of the copper-nickel stuff. It's so much easier to work with. But you're not the one to make things easy on yourself. Although stainless in pretty :pimp:
 
I only did a short section on my truck but yeah it was a lot easier to flare and bend than the old steel that was in there for sure.
 
QUICK UPDATE:

Waiting on a small metals order for the fuel tank (arriving tomorrow) and placed a new order for fasteners this morning to keep things moving along.

The fuel system research continues, which is going to be an expensive tri-fecta of fuel system components, fuel line materials and new flaring tools, so it's important to get everything right. :thinking:

In the meantime, there is still plenty to do. The CNC work on the cage plates is completed, but virtually every location requires some special "customizing" to fit... especially on the underside of the bedfloor where there are numerous flanges, cross-sills and other pieces in the way.

The new Wilton vise makes the through-hole drilling process a total breeze!!! The weight of the vise actually helps to stabilize the cutting process substantially, and using the small upper cage plates and a drill guide it's a simple matter to get holes into all of the thicker materials and maintain perfect alignment too!

IMG_5571.jpg



The first 4 plates were installed with minimal fuss. These are the ones that support the B-pillar cage area. The next ones that were a bit tougher are for the small diagonal supports that run alongside the inner wheeltubs.

IMG_5593.jpg



In addition to the underside plate needing quite a bit of clearancing, there was an "odd" discrepancy in fitment between the L & R side wheeltubs themselves. After pulling a bunch of dimensions from each side a 1/4" variance was found in the stamping of the holes in the flange of the wheeltubs themselves!!! On one side, the holes are perfectly centered in the middle of the flange, but on the other side, the holes are very close to the outer edge. Since the cage plate butts right up against the wheeltub, it's quite noticeable from side-to-side and the cage bar lands in a different spot on the plate.

Tonight, the objective is to look at a few extra wheeltubs that were set aside and look for a better "matching pair" to install. Otherwise, all of the holes will need to be filled and re-drilled to shift the wheeltub by that necessary 1/4". It seems like a small detail, but there's just NO way that it can be left as-is now that I know it's there.

Parting shot for the evening. 4 plates completely installed. 2 more in place waiting for wheeltub rework. 6 more positions left to install....!!! :yikes:

IMG_5601.jpg





-G
 
One thing you can always count on with the first gens and even the squares for the most part. Side to side it won't be the same.

Symmetry was not a strong point in automotive manufacturing at this stage it seems
 
blazinzuk said:
One thing you can always count on with the first gens and even the squares for the most part. Side to side it won't be the same.

Symmetry was not a strong point in automotive manufacturing at this stage it seems
Click to expand...


The irony in this case is that it's the OEM factory wheeltubs that are wrong, and not the Taiwanese reproduction bedfloor!!!! :haha:

-G
 
Progress is progress. It'll be a blazer again before we know it. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom