All artsy with your cage lighting.
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
I like the LED dome lights, post up some info (with dimmer) when you have a chance. Wiring thru or along the cage?
I just bought some cheap lights from Amazon to start.... now that I know the effect will be good, I'll focus on different color temperatures and better quality LEDs.
Definitely hiding the wires in the cage.... That will leave more zip ties available for Dueling's build.
-G
I just bought some cheap lights from Amazon to start.... now that I know the effect will be good, I'll focus on different color temperatures and better quality LEDs.
Definitely hiding the wires in the cage.... That will leave more zip ties available for Dueling's build.
-G
You can send the zip ties to me too
Dude go karts are awesome, I think it's time to get Liam into one soon. I'll be looking for this thread you speak of..
More bald-headed "Chevy friends"??? My wife is going to start thinking I've joined a cult....
(I have already, haven't I).
-G
Joined?????
It does say moderator up there doesn't it.
You da leader or well at least an enforcer
Not exactly a "cult". More of a club...More bald-headed "Chevy friends"??? My wife is going to start thinking I've joined a cult....
(I have already, haven't I).
-G
[youtube]
More bald-headed "Chevy friends"??? My wife is going to start thinking I've joined a cult....
(I have already, haven't I).
-G
Strange how many of the 1st gen guys are folliclely challenged. Except for Mike. He's...different.
Did he fail the initiation?
He stole all the hair...
When I bought my 72, all you fockers had hair, even Fox. That's why I sold it, I didn't want to go bald
It's not just 1st gen owners that are 'follicley challenged'
2017.05.01 - UPDATE!! - NEW TOOLS!!!
@ryoken
Took the advice of @AgDieseler (IIRC) and picked up a nice Hutchins 3500 D/A.
The idea was to finally get something that would help to dress-down the welds on various panels and blend them more cleanly than I can do currently with careful flapdisc work. The risk of scalloping-out the panel is just too great, even when using a well-worn disc and using light pressure.
I also picked up a 2nd LED option from Oznium. It's a warm-white version of the button-style LED that I'd already tried in a pure-white (6500K). On a dimmer, the 6500K bulbs are acceptable but I still think I prefer the look of a warmer "incandescent" glow.... the idea is to keep this truck stock after all!!!
Here's the comparison. Typically, not that easy to see in a photo.... but the fact that you can tell them apart clearly, should validate that the comparison is stark in real-life:
For the D/A Experiment, there were only 2 types of 3M paper to play around with. The 80-grit seemed like it might be too agressive, but I took a chance anyway and tried knocking down some weld seams in a few different spots. The results were surpisingly poor...
This is the rear axle truss. The flat areas cleaned up nicely, and all surface rust was removed and smoothed-out, but the weld seam didn't really come down much and it feels like it would take FOREVER to flatten-out with the 80-grit paper. Clearly, there is a better combination.... and I'm guessing that the correct paper is probably 36 or 40-grit???
(@ryoken Any Ideas?)
The other place I tried was the strut plate on the top of the rear frame. This one shows the effect of flap-disc smoothing..... even when done VERY carefully, it's just too easy to remove more than you expected and end up with low spots. The previous grinding work to remove the old 1.75" tube and weld left a circular divot in the parent metal as you can clearly see here.
Ultimately, this one doesn't really matter because a new tube will get welded right on top of this... but it would be a good place to practice my D/A skills since it will be all but invisible once the truck is reassembled.
-G
@ryoken
Took the advice of @AgDieseler (IIRC) and picked up a nice Hutchins 3500 D/A.
The idea was to finally get something that would help to dress-down the welds on various panels and blend them more cleanly than I can do currently with careful flapdisc work. The risk of scalloping-out the panel is just too great, even when using a well-worn disc and using light pressure.
I also picked up a 2nd LED option from Oznium. It's a warm-white version of the button-style LED that I'd already tried in a pure-white (6500K). On a dimmer, the 6500K bulbs are acceptable but I still think I prefer the look of a warmer "incandescent" glow.... the idea is to keep this truck stock after all!!!
Here's the comparison. Typically, not that easy to see in a photo.... but the fact that you can tell them apart clearly, should validate that the comparison is stark in real-life:
For the D/A Experiment, there were only 2 types of 3M paper to play around with. The 80-grit seemed like it might be too agressive, but I took a chance anyway and tried knocking down some weld seams in a few different spots. The results were surpisingly poor...
This is the rear axle truss. The flat areas cleaned up nicely, and all surface rust was removed and smoothed-out, but the weld seam didn't really come down much and it feels like it would take FOREVER to flatten-out with the 80-grit paper. Clearly, there is a better combination.... and I'm guessing that the correct paper is probably 36 or 40-grit???
(@ryoken Any Ideas?)The other place I tried was the strut plate on the top of the rear frame. This one shows the effect of flap-disc smoothing..... even when done VERY carefully, it's just too easy to remove more than you expected and end up with low spots. The previous grinding work to remove the old 1.75" tube and weld left a circular divot in the parent metal as you can clearly see here.
Ultimately, this one doesn't really matter because a new tube will get welded right on top of this... but it would be a good place to practice my D/A skills since it will be all but invisible once the truck is reassembled.
-G
Warm-white on the right? If so, I like that one. You plan on having any colors up there. I'd like to incorporate a red map reading led, so not to affect night vision.
Exactly right.
Oznium sells red LEDs too.... I was going to pick up a couple to experiment with map lights in the front of the cage. They even sell a UV (Blacklight) version if you really want to harken back to the 60's era with the build.
The pure white LEDs seem cool (pun intended) at first, but brighter (and bluer) doesn't necessarily give you better quality light. It feels really fatiguing on the eyes and I think I'd hate it in the long run.
The installation into the cage will make it relatively easy to swap out LEDs in the future so there's no reason to obsess much more about a specfic brand / model of LED at this point. I'll grab a handful of the Oznium ones for now and change them out later if I find something I like even more at some later date.
-G
Nice. I'll check them out. Welding the cage together is my next move, so make sure you get everything correct.
I'm just going to copy your stuff.
I'm just going to copy your stuff.
Nice. I'll check them out. Welding the cage together is my next move, so make sure you get everything correct.
I'm just going to copy your stuff.
I'm thinking that I might have found a use for that super flexible copper-nickel fuel/brake line that everyone was talking about 100 posts ago.... it could make for a really nice chase tube for wiring inside the rollcage, especially good for protecting the wires as they pass through an intersection point where there are likely to be rough edges, etc.
-G
Man, I like that idea better than my garage door cable. Nice work. Keep it up as I'd hate to see us BOTH backtracking. Lol
