That’s “undocumented emigrant” to you...!!! 
-G
-G
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
More like vagrant!!!!
Now go get some shop time playing electrician or making small pieces out of large
pieces of pine.
Now go get some shop time playing electrician or making small pieces out of large pieces of pine.
More like vagrant!!!!
pieces of pine.
I’m on it!!
-G
I found out from our potential builder that here in Utah the shared wall of an attached garage must be drywalled and I think the ceiling also must be finished but other than that he could leave the other walls as studs for me to finish or he can do another type of wall covering on them. I'll be keeping an eye on your garage for future ideas.
I have a question. I was talking garage lighting with our possible home builder and he advised me that I should use a "disk" light instead of an LED can light since it only requires a standard cheapy box to install with a regular light bulb fixture instead of the more expensive can light fixture. I looked back at what you used and it looks like the same thing he is recommending that will just screw into a regular bulb socket. How come you used can light fixtures for them?
The one you show is not the right light. The one you want has an adapter to be screwed in to a 3, 4 round or regular out let box. They cost as much or more that a led and housing.
Ok I was not sure. There is a ton of stuff out there and it gets a little confusing. The one I showed was the one from earlier in Greg's thread. On the box it shows an adapter to screw it into a standard socket correct? Why would you need the can light housing to mount it and not just a standard box?
I'm not sure of all the pricing, but initially I was planning to use conventional 90W halogen bulbs everywhere in the garage so I bought the traditional HALO "new construction" style 6" cans. (ALSO: since there was no drywall on the ceiling, I could place the light fixtures exactly where I wanted to in X,Y coordinate space... the rails allow me to set the spacing exactly between cans by sliding them around)
They are only about $7 each IIRC, so even if you are planning to go LED from the get-go it's a pretty cheap and fast way to set up your lighting. The HALO stuff is also "quick-connect" for the electrical nowdays (even for thicker 12GA Romex) so you literally just strip the wires about 1/2" and plug them into the prewired sockets.
No more twisting wire nuts.The LEDs come with an integrated trim ring which is nice. HALO was notorious for selling you the fixture for $7, but then charging upwards of $15+ each for the stupid trim rings!!!
I remember feeling duped by that in my last house... of course you do all construction and drywall first, and don't even think about the trim bezels at all.... then on the final days when you are ready to finish touch-up painting and installing wall plates, and ceiling trim it's a huge surprise to find out how much it will cost to buy those cosmetic parts. (of course, by then it's too late.....and HALO has got you by the short hairs)...-G
@Truckman4life, .I have researched lighting till I'm blue in the face.
In a garage/shop where you gonna be working nothing beats basic boring 4 ft fixtures. I did a lighting layout on a free program and to get the same lighting from can lights ( led) vs 4ft double bulb fixtures I was gonna spend over twice and needed a reeediculous amount of can lights. My height is part of the problem and I was shooting for 90-100 lumens per square foot at 36" off the floor
In a garage where your not gonna work regularly I'm sure it's fine and I love the way can lights give you a smooth ceiling. But in a workspace I wouldn't use em unless your ceiling was low
In a garage/shop where you gonna be working nothing beats basic boring 4 ft fixtures. I did a lighting layout on a free program and to get the same lighting from can lights ( led) vs 4ft double bulb fixtures I was gonna spend over twice and needed a reeediculous amount of can lights. My height is part of the problem and I was shooting for 90-100 lumens per square foot at 36" off the floor
In a garage where your not gonna work regularly I'm sure it's fine and I love the way can lights give you a smooth ceiling. But in a workspace I wouldn't use em unless your ceiling was low
The box shows the adapter that is used to plug into a standard can light housing. The housings mostly still use the standard bulb socket so that you could use standard bulbs in them still.
Yeah not sure on ceiling height at this stage but it will be a large 3 car garage with an extra deep bay for the single bay and probably an 8' two car door and then like a 10'-12' door on the single bay so it will have a little ceiling height but not bad and ceiling will be drywall I'm sure. It will either be LED like what @Greg72 is doing or the other option I like is T5 fluorescent but I don't know how prices compare at all.
T
tenderfoot
Guest
This whole garage remodel is utterly destroying the epic MAW build. And while we're on the subject, what's next for the rig or rather when?
Still a few more weeks out .....I'd guess at least Memorial Day (if not Fathers Day) before actual truck work starts up again.
Current Punchlist is as follows:
1. Get 100 shiplap boards painted (KILZ) prior to installation on ceiling. Painting after installation will be at least 10X more difficult.
2. Install shiplap in all ceiling areas
3. Finally, cut out rafters and re-frame lower ceiling area to officially "vault" the double-bay side.
4. Finish the miscellaneous plywood flooring work in the upper areas to create storage bin space.
5. Install more T&G on underside of ceilings around perimeter lighting areas. Install ceiling speakers.
6. Install T&G wall on left side of garage to match the completed side on the right.
7. Install the 2nd LiftMaster 8500 (door opener) and run all remaining wires
8. Frame up "sound proofing wall" against rear of shop to block noises into house.
9. Finish wiring up 220V outlets and breakers in panel.
10. Put away all unnecessary items that are taking up room into the overhead spaces.
That doesn't include things like installing the AC Mini-split.... which isn't critical (yet) and can be put off for a little while longer.
-G
Don't you just love how moving delays and screws up everything.
T
tenderfoot
Guest
Ceiling speakers,
fancy
fancy
Ceiling speakers,
fancy
Bought them a couple years ago for my house. Sold the house before they ever got installed. Now they go in the new TX garage!!! Muhahahaaaa!!!
-G
Greg what speakers are they?
Have you listened to them?
I'm likely gonna run speaker wire up in the attic for 6 ceiling speakers. Whether I get around to doing them eventually is a whole nother thing. Just want to be ready if I ever get em
Damnn!!
Polk Audio 8” coax’s that we’re heavily discounted on Woot.com
No idea if they will be any good, but like you said they can be a placeholder for now and can always be swapped out if I hate them.
-G
Coolio. Those polks I have heard good things about. I'm eventually gonna spend some money. I like having good sound in the shop.
