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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
tenderfoot said:
You ain't efin around with that work space.:bow:
And good news, supposed to be pretty darn nice this weekend.
Do you have your ac done yet?
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24K BTU Mitsubishi mini-split was installed last summer.... I've actually used it for HEAT lately, but it will come in handy this summer for sure.

Need to either replace my existing rollup doors with something better or do a quick-and-dirty insulation job on them since they are non-insulated metal and are south-facing.

One step at a time, though. :)


-G
 
NorCalKid said:
Why not just pour a little more concrete on top of the slab? Should be cheaper than pressure treated and a little easier too?
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Seems tricky to get it to bond properly to the existing concrete and not crack all to hell... but I'm open to ideas if there's a way that it can be done.


-G
 
My opinion on cabinets. I realize you like it all matching but I have seen in person the nicer new age 3.0. kind of expensive in my mind and still kind of chintzy. I could flex the door no problem.

If I was gonna spend the money I'd find out how much a local cabinet guy can make some for you. Not metal out of good old wood.

Or just find some less expensive kitchen takeouts. Paint to match, use spider gears as knobs

I can't find any that I really like and I'm not prepared to spend thousands on cabinets but if I could I would have some very tall cabinets made and a couple that were extra wide with a single door.

As it is I am gonna be stuck building my own at some point.

I'd probably be looking at adding concrete to your lip too. But I'm sure a wood platform would be perfectly fine.

As far as garage doors go, the insulation kits with a couple cans of great stuff will insulate on par with all but the most expensive doors.

I'd just like to see you get this crap done and move onto making me madly jealous driving over 5 gallon buckets
 
I wouldn't consider extending the concrete ledge out with concrete either. Not without taking the existing down so the new stuff would be stronger. If you'd do that heck, MAW take the ledge out all together.
 
AJs72K5 said:
I assume you’ll use you fancy gantry winch to get the 40lb bags of salt up to the loft?
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It’s such an infrequently accessed item that it’s an easy choice to make. I filled it when I first moved to TX (over a year ago) with 120lbs of salt. It’s just now getting low enough that it will need to be filled again soon. The beam hoist will make short work of lifting those bags too... :)


82355 said:
Why is that concrete ledge there?

Martin
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It’s a Texas thing! I guess? :dunno: I’ve seen it on a number of houses around here and my only guess is that it’s to prevent any standing water from getting into the living spaces. I don’t really get it...we aren’t in any kind of flood plain, and the garage pad is poured with a slope too. Seems excessive...


-G
 
Make a man sized workbench for man sized projects and that lip will be forgotten. :waytogo:

IMHO, I think I nailed it on my workbench dimensions. At first I thought it was going to be way too big, but over the years I couldn’t imagine having less depth on the bench top. It really gives you room to work.

Don’t hate on the current mess. :D

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NorCal69 said:
Make a man sized workbench for man sized projects and that lip will be forgotten. :waytogo:

IMHO, I think I nailed it on my workbench dimensions. At first I thought it was going to be way too big, but over the years I couldn’t imagine having less depth on the bench top. It really gives you room to work.

Don’t hate on the current mess. :D
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That's true... the extra depth is nice, but remember I'm not a tall, sequoia of a man like you. So if I build it too deep, I'll never be able to reach the upper cabinets without a stepladder! :)

Trying to plan out a few details at once:

1. Get as much storage as possible that has actual DOORS so that I'm not constantly covering everything in grinding dust. It's a lot easier to use the airhose to "clean" a shop if it's not a bunch of open shelves
2. Plan for the workflow for items like the drillpress, 20-ton press, and large disc grinder... and make sure I leave room for things like an English wheel (maybe), planishing hammer (also maybe) and smaller items like a floormounted shrinker/stretcher and maybe a beadroller. Those items might end up lined up underneath that huge load beam that divides the 2-car and single-car side of the shop, since there's no particular reason why they need to sit against a wall per se.
3. Workbench v2.0: Spend a couple of hours reworking my existing steel top bench. It's got a 1" thick steel top and it's a monster but the casters are small and don't allow it to roll around easily. I've added a powerstrip to one side which was a great upgrade, but I still need to add a few basics like tool hangers for the anglegrinder, cutoff, and maybe TIG torch so I don't have to worry about them always falling and breaking consumables. I like having a freestanding workbench that I've got 360* of space to move around it. That can often be handy.




4X4HIGH said:
MAW jackhammer out the extra concrete "step" and be done with it forever.
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I really need to understand WHY it's built the way it is first... and hopefully confirm that it's poured deep enough that I can remove the top 4" without creating some kind of structural issue with the house. That load wall supports the entire 2-story front of my house.. it's probably worth the effort to research it a bit more before breaking out the jackhammer. But I agree.... other than the work involved to remove the old concrete, having that all smoothed out would be the best solution of all. :waytogo:


-G
 
Super easy to add the wood to that concrete lip like your first idea and carry on with other details. Not the perfect solution but keeps things moving at a faster pace.


Obviously there has been no rush on this build but...:D
 
My work bench is 24"x48" and I always wish it was deeper. I recently stood it off the wall with a 2x10 laid flat so now it's about 34" deep and I love it. Just build your bench out to the end of the concrete lip and enjoy the extra work space.
 
I was going to suggest a similar solution as Scott except run a concrete saw along the outer ~10” and just remove all but 22” of the ledge and put your cabinets on top of what’s left. Not sure if that’s even possible though.
 
bp71k5 said:
I was going to suggest a similar solution as Scott except run a concrete saw along the outer ~10” and just remove all but 22” of the ledge and put your cabinets on top of what’s left. Not sure if that’s even possible though.
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Nah it would have to be ground down smooth. The concrete dust mess it would make:yikes:
 
In Mike's shop his workbench is perfect.

In my shop I'm building a 24" wide by 7' long welding table.

If your current welding bench needs reworked then do so. It needs to fit the space.

I'm still getting my shop setup but having a ton of horizontal space is not a priority. Having a small amount that is fixed and then some that is moveable is the goal

In a smaller space you gotta limit what you do so you still have enough room to do what you need to do. Mike's work table is a perfect example of that. It's a great size in his space
 
Chevy305 said:
My work bench is 24"x48" and I always wish it was deeper. I recently stood it off the wall with a 2x10 laid flat so now it's about 34" deep and I love it. Just build your bench out to the end of the concrete lip and enjoy the extra work space.
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I was going to say that too, make the bench flush with the concrete, simple and effective when done. Many times a slightly deeper bench will be appreciated.
 
I thought about cutting out the concrete pad (if possible), but would the step being right at the doorway be a bit of a pain? Toe catcher and all.

Martin
 
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