CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
I think just a way of doubling up to keep bolts from coming loose. The bolt can't spin and then I'm assuming with the proper locking hardware on the other side the nut shouldn't come loose either. Also good for certain locations where you wouldn't want the bolt to spin while in use.So what the advantage of that?
Your good dude.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
or a tight spot where you can’t get a wrench in there. I could have used a few, may have to pick some up.
yep. Just a convenient way to drain the tank outside the door instead of blowing rusty water across the shop floor.
. I had an “automatic” drain valve installed but it rusted shut so now I’m going old-school-G
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I understand that. I am just having a hard time understanding "what for". Just seems like I'm building a better mousetrap over here.
Lock washers/nylock nuts/ locktite are all proven methods for locking bolts down.
Just seams like a fair amount of extra work to weld those on when on 90% of applications you probably don't need them.
Now holding a bolt head for limited access to could be a good use. But for the effort of welding that on I'll just weld the bolt head or nut with a few tacks. Same applies to keeping the bolt from rotating.
I also could see it being a hindrance when extracting a possible bent bolt.
You want to test the gauge as well. And some of those switches are adjustable.
You have a Quincy from when they were made in Illinois (blue fan cage). They’re made in Mobile now (black fan cage, like mine). I’m fact, my team converted all those switches to an uprated model from a Eaton. There’s no telling what they’ll give you as a replacement, but the newer design was built just for the QT54 and similar units from IR, and is rated to some astronomical number of cycles.
Whatever you order, it will come from my team’s warehouse.
David
"Mobile" where, here in Alabama?
I agree, I think I have the same quincy and its a two stage that supplies 175 psi to the tank for more capacity. Is that one a single stage with two cylinders?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
yep. Just a convenient way to drain the tank outside the door instead of blowing rusty water across the shop floor.
-G
hmm, pretty decent idea.
That's cool, I didn't realize that. Do you ever visit the site?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I stole your rolling cart idea.... only seems fair that you steal an idea from me.
-G
I just drained mine last night with the little valve on the bottom draining stale water onto my hands and on the floor so I was looking at those automatic valves, but they aren’t cheap and if they rust shut so easy, a simple manual way would fix that problem.
FYI: The cart is getting a version 2.0 in the next few weeks.
UPDATE -
Trying to resolve my Quincy pressure switch issue without much luck yet.
This is the broken Square-D one:
This is the superceded version that Quincy is apparently using these days on their upright compressors
Made by Condor-USA
This is the specific Model / Serial Number that I'm trying to match up with.....
First interaction with Quincy Rep has not been stellar.... part number offered does not seem to even be correct pressure or a match to the old switch.
SWITCH,PRS,NEMA 1,100LB,25 DIF 2023710144 $124.610
So... trying to remain calm while escalating to my "I'd like to speak with your manager" process....
-G
Trying to resolve my Quincy pressure switch issue without much luck yet.
This is the broken Square-D one:
This is the superceded version that Quincy is apparently using these days on their upright compressors
Made by Condor-USA
This is the specific Model / Serial Number that I'm trying to match up with.....
First interaction with Quincy Rep has not been stellar.... part number offered does not seem to even be correct pressure or a match to the old switch.
SWITCH,PRS,NEMA 1,100LB,25 DIF 2023710144 $124.610
So... trying to remain calm while escalating to my "I'd like to speak with your manager" process....
-G
This one looks like your old one, just a different part #https://www.se.com/us/en/product/90...node=12643644558-9013-power-pressure-switches
Yeah, I really never liked that original one or that little wing-style ON/OFF switch.... it felt cheap everytime I shut if off and now it seems completely broken so I'd much rather replace it with the new design that Quincy went with.
I suspect it's not an accident that the Square-D was disqualified at Quincy and it may be that I'm one of MANY people who had issues with it.
-G
bigred88
1/2 ton status
Aww yeah. I'm stoked to see some more MAW updates! Your garage is bitchin. I don't feel like I enjoy working on the garage like I do the cars, so my garage is an unorganized mess all the time. Your work certainly looks worth it.
I'll also be stealing your stolen scrap cart idea.
I'll also be stealing your stolen scrap cart idea.
2020.02.16 - UPDATE!! - OH YEAH, IT'S OFFICIALLY ON!!!!
It's official.
I worked on the Blazer today.
After a 2 year and 3 month delay.... it was finally time to allocate a Sunday to blowing out the mental cobwebs and figure out just where this build actually left off.
It seemed like a sensible start to get the truck off it's bumpstops and set ride-height properly. So that's where it began. 250psi of nitrogen got the front end back to 6" of bump travel and gave the truck a nice Cali-Lean.
SoCal Style.... LOL
The rear was more of a problem, since the ORIs were never installed when the rear bedfloor got replaced. It's always been sort of propped-up with wood blocks, but today was a day of positive energy so it felt like the time to make bold moves.
The previous marks / tape turned out to be quite accurate. For safety a small hole was cut and a rod was installed between the upper and lower mounting bolts just to confirm that the calculated hole center was the ACTUAL hole center (which it was!). This gave the confidence to do the larger 6" hole without concern that it would be in the wrong spot.
The Peek-A-Boo shot of the upper link mount through the newly created strut hole...
Installed.
The second side went faster, and the confidence was beginning to return.... The musical sounds of "Holy Diver...." were echoing victoriously in my head.
Put a couple-hundred pounds of nitrogen in the ORIs to give them a nice wakeup stretch from their long slumber.... all the way out to 16" of chrome.
...and a fun side shot
HA!
At the current weight.... reducing the rear pressures to 175psi brought it back down to 7" of bump / 9" of droop. Obviously when more sheetmetal is hung and a bumper and tailgate are installed it will take more pressure to maintain the preferred ride height.
It was a pretty victorious day, and I'm not going to lie..... it felt really GOOD to finally be back on the Might As Well project.
There's still a lot that's been forgotten and it will take time to remember all the details, but fortunately this was dragged out of a storage bin today as well.....
"The ORACLE" Notebook knows all of the secret plans and progress..... so a few hours of careful reading should bring all the upcoming work back into focus again.
-G
It's official.
I worked on the Blazer today.
After a 2 year and 3 month delay.... it was finally time to allocate a Sunday to blowing out the mental cobwebs and figure out just where this build actually left off.
It seemed like a sensible start to get the truck off it's bumpstops and set ride-height properly. So that's where it began. 250psi of nitrogen got the front end back to 6" of bump travel and gave the truck a nice Cali-Lean.
SoCal Style.... LOL
The rear was more of a problem, since the ORIs were never installed when the rear bedfloor got replaced. It's always been sort of propped-up with wood blocks, but today was a day of positive energy so it felt like the time to make bold moves.
The previous marks / tape turned out to be quite accurate. For safety a small hole was cut and a rod was installed between the upper and lower mounting bolts just to confirm that the calculated hole center was the ACTUAL hole center (which it was!). This gave the confidence to do the larger 6" hole without concern that it would be in the wrong spot.
The Peek-A-Boo shot of the upper link mount through the newly created strut hole...
Installed.
The second side went faster, and the confidence was beginning to return.... The musical sounds of "Holy Diver...." were echoing victoriously in my head.
Put a couple-hundred pounds of nitrogen in the ORIs to give them a nice wakeup stretch from their long slumber.... all the way out to 16" of chrome.
...and a fun side shot
HA!
At the current weight.... reducing the rear pressures to 175psi brought it back down to 7" of bump / 9" of droop. Obviously when more sheetmetal is hung and a bumper and tailgate are installed it will take more pressure to maintain the preferred ride height.
It was a pretty victorious day, and I'm not going to lie..... it felt really GOOD to finally be back on the Might As Well project.
There's still a lot that's been forgotten and it will take time to remember all the details, but fortunately this was dragged out of a storage bin today as well.....
"The ORACLE" Notebook knows all of the secret plans and progress..... so a few hours of careful reading should bring all the upcoming work back into focus again.
-G
