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What happened to the old decision of factory blue?

That was a long time ago.

I still think about blue.... and ochre to be honest.

The blue would look amazing against the orange backdrop of Moab slickrock.... and ochre was it's original color and it's been growing on me over the years. Just not sure I could actually do it when the time comes to spray it.


-G
 
Ochre looks fine on stock and patina trucks, but it's pretty bland and not nearly as photogenic as hugger orange or a nice blue color. Plus they used that color a lot back then so it's pretty common to see.

We just sold a '21 vette convertible in Elkhart lake blue. Stunning color. Pardon the crappy lighting inside .IMG_20210417_071222865.jpg
 
Ochre looks fine on stock and patina trucks, but it's pretty bland and not nearly as photogenic as hugger orange or a nice blue color. Plus they used that color a lot back then so it's pretty common to see.

We just sold a '21 vette convertible in Elkhart lake blue. Stunning color. Pardon the crappy lighting inside .


I would not want to do anything too "modern" in terms of paint. There is a House Of Color color called "Tangelo" which is brilliant (and probably a modern twist on Hugger Orange) but when I've seen it on a 1st Gen it just doesn't seem right. There are a lot of modern pearls that also seem "off" on an old vintage truck.

A traditional GM blue from the old Corvettes would be interesting. I think Elkhart was one... Nassau blue was another. I'd want a lighter sapphire blue vs. the darker blues but don't know all the names.


-G
 
Nassau Blue was a nice color under Mercury vapor street light. It turn a cool shade of Lavender.
 
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Since we're all getting ahead of ourselves, I'll chime in too. :) Given how "wild" the build is going to be, I'd think a more subdued color would fit better. Ochre would be sweet, but any of the "stock" light blue colors would be good too.

If you go with Hugger Orange at this point, everyone will just think you copied @NorCal69 :cool:
 
2021.05.10 - UPDATE! - MIRROR IMAGES!!!

Another pretty solid chunk of progress this weekend....

Driver's side firewall / footwell needed the same tire clearance treatment that was just completed on the passenger side so step one was cutting out the old metal above the steering column...

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The resulting space....

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Then templating out a new part...


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Resized the mounting plate.... since there are a lot of through-holes that still need to be accommodated. (Parking brake cable, fuse block, etc). Some will ultimately have to be relocated slightly but should still be workable.

Also did a beadrolled detail to emboss the mounting plate area because "Might As Well"...



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The oversized part was put up into place for the next round of measuring and trimming...





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And then the lower high-crown part was slowly brought into alignment with it... and Clecos were added to start locking everything together.



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From the inside, it was nice to finally NOT be able to see all the way through the floors "Flintstone Style".... and the new mirror image shapes DO look pretty cool.


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Obviously, the floor panels still need to be created and merged with these... but in some ways that is a lot easier because at least now SOME of the constraints are now in place which makes it easier to start making cardboard templates and getting pieces cut out more quickly. When trying to fill in gaping holes with no reference points to work from, it can be a big challenge.



-G
 
I can see why you went auto-trans... No room for the third pedal over there. :pimp: Looks cool!


Yeah, you got that right!!! LOL.

Still want to put the factory parking brake pedal over in the stock location, but will need to see if it will actually cycle properly with the new wheel bulge encroaching in that area.... :thinking:

(Ignore the reinforcement plate hanging on the gas pedal. I pulled that out of one of my storage boxes to remind myself that it needs to be reworked to fit with the wider engine firewall)

Brake pedal arm is dramatically bent toward the gas pedal and would make a lot more sense if it were straight instead, so will probably heat that with a torch and straighten it out, or just cut out a new one...

Need to find a place for my high-beam foot pedal also because......"stock".


IMG_4830.JPG



-G
 
Yeah, you got that right!!! LOL.

Still want to put the factory parking brake pedal over in the stock location, but will need to see if it will actually cycle properly with the new wheel bulge encroaching in that area.... :thinking:

(Ignore the reinforcement plate hanging on the gas pedal. I pulled that out of one of my storage boxes to remind myself that it needs to be reworked to fit with the wider engine firewall)

Brake pedal arm is dramatically bent toward the gas pedal and would make a lot more sense if it were straight instead, so will probably heat that with a torch and straighten it out, or just cut out a new one...

Need to find a place for my high-beam foot pedal also because......"stock".


View attachment 377554



-G
Why does the brake pedal need to move? Did you do something different with the go pedal? I know the distance between them is set to be able to switch from gas to brake so if it’s gotta stay stock...

I don’t see how that emergency brake pedal is going to fit, but I’ll happily wait and see what you come up with.
 
Why does the brake pedal need to move? Did you do something different with the go pedal? I know the distance between them is set to be able to switch from gas to brake so if it’s gotta stay stock...

I don’t see how that emergency brake pedal is going to fit, but I’ll happily wait and see what you come up with.
He can always switch to hand ebrake
 
Why does the brake pedal need to move? Did you do something different with the go pedal? I know the distance between them is set to be able to switch from gas to brake so if it’s gotta stay stock...

I don’t see how that emergency brake pedal is going to fit, but I’ll happily wait and see what you come up with.

When the center of the firewall was stretched 4” the gas pedal shifted left by 2” as a result.

No intention of moving the brake mount itself, just the crooked pedal arm hanging from it.

The gas & brake pedals are really close to each orher now.... great for heel-toe downshifts but without a manual trans it of dubious value.



-G
 
When the center of the firewall was stretched 4” the gas pedal shifted left by 2” as a result.

No intention of moving the brake mount itself, just the crooked pedal arm hanging from it.

The gas & brake pedals are really close to each orher now.... great for heel-toe downshifts but without a manual trans it of dubious value.



-G
Ah, didn’t catch the gas pedal move. So it the seat mount moving to follow that or is it not enough to worry about?
 
Ah, didn’t catch the gas pedal move. So it the seat mount moving to follow that or is it not enough to worry about?

Seat stays centered in front of steering column. Mounts were moved WAY back on new sliders vs the stock setup. That opens up a good amount of leg room so even with a wider center tunnel it should be possible to set up the pedals in comfortable spots.

-G
 
2021.05.12 - UPDATE!! - REMOTE MOUNT HYDROBOOST BRAKES...

Did not realize until recently that there are a few vendors out there offering hydroboost brake systems that can be remote-mounted. Basically just a remote slave unit and brake line to allow bulky parts of the system to go wherever there is room to put them.

Looking at solutions from BustedKnuckle and Vanco now... need to understand the important criteria involved and insure they will be compatible with hydro-assist steering.

Busted Knuckle Version:



Vanco Version:




Anyone here done a remote hydroboost system, or have a good tech link to study?

-G
 
In this day and age, have you considered electric brake boost? Not really necessary, just something to consider...I haven't even checked to see what's out there, maybe it sucks.
 
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