Lookin' good!
CK5
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72 K5 - IGOR's build thread - 6/12/2017- Update!
- Thread starter Engineered Vintage
- Start date
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
I really like that crossmember, looks way better than the stocker
Progress - small but progress.
Got the 8.1 in the frame rails. This is temporary placement to mock stuff up, and make sure things fit! Excuse the rusty engine! It will be BLING - don't worry!
Also took 4L80e & 205 to buddy to install the new output shaft. It's something I could probably do myself (at least the 205) but no time lately.
Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics in the dark:
Got the 8.1 in the frame rails. This is temporary placement to mock stuff up, and make sure things fit! Excuse the rusty engine! It will be BLING - don't worry!
Also took 4L80e & 205 to buddy to install the new output shaft. It's something I could probably do myself (at least the 205) but no time lately.
Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics in the dark:
Nice
Joe Blaze
1/2 ton status
Lol.
LOL! gotta clean up the beer now.Sounds like some creep bragging about finding the craigslist personal ads.
Argh! So got my custom headers today after talking with AJ several weeks back about them. Thanks AJ for fielding all my hair-brained questions the other night!
They don't quite fit - and after reading AJ's thread as well as some other build threads, I'm thinking I need to lift the motor up slightly in the frame. Seems like someone else had Kert make longer mounts to "push" the engine up.
What do you guys think? It seems like if engine went up about half an inch or inch it would all come together? Probably going to try that this weekend - lifting up the engine with hoist - no time during the week.
My frame is stock - no cutting
#1 tube is hitting on frame, and the passenger side is closer, but 2 or 4 (too tired too care at that point) seem to be troublesome.
They don't quite fit - and after reading AJ's thread as well as some other build threads, I'm thinking I need to lift the motor up slightly in the frame. Seems like someone else had Kert make longer mounts to "push" the engine up.
What do you guys think? It seems like if engine went up about half an inch or inch it would all come together? Probably going to try that this weekend - lifting up the engine with hoist - no time during the week.
My frame is stock - no cutting
#1 tube is hitting on frame, and the passenger side is closer, but 2 or 4 (too tired too care at that point) seem to be troublesome.
Are you unwilling to cut the framerail, or just trying to avoid it?
Spacers between the motor mounts and block will be the easiest way to experiment. Of course there is a limit to how much of a spacer you can add before the large bolt hole won't line up anymore and will need to be ovaled out to get the bolt in there again.
Spacers between the motor mounts and block will be the easiest way to experiment. Of course there is a limit to how much of a spacer you can add before the large bolt hole won't line up anymore and will need to be ovaled out to get the bolt in there again.
Greg-
I can cut the frame rail if necessary but definitely trying to avoid it. I would like to exhaust (pardon the pun) other solutions before I get the cutting wheel out.
I would rather solve issue with engine crossmember/engine mount modifications. I thought about using spacers like you suggested, but I don’t think it will provide enough lift to get where I need to be, and will require remaking the bottom cross-tube – which I can do, but again would like to avoid.
I also went and re-read AJ’s thread again and it looks like he shoved the frame mounts into frame further – I need to look at it again tonight and see exactly where it’s hitting.
I remember reading somewhere on here that Kert had made some lifted mounts to space engine up (can’t find thread right now). That “seems” like what I need to do.
They were similar to this: (black is original, red is modified) I’m thinking this could work?
-Ben
I can cut the frame rail if necessary but definitely trying to avoid it. I would like to exhaust (pardon the pun) other solutions before I get the cutting wheel out.
I would rather solve issue with engine crossmember/engine mount modifications. I thought about using spacers like you suggested, but I don’t think it will provide enough lift to get where I need to be, and will require remaking the bottom cross-tube – which I can do, but again would like to avoid.
I also went and re-read AJ’s thread again and it looks like he shoved the frame mounts into frame further – I need to look at it again tonight and see exactly where it’s hitting.
I remember reading somewhere on here that Kert had made some lifted mounts to space engine up (can’t find thread right now). That “seems” like what I need to do.
They were similar to this: (black is original, red is modified) I’m thinking this could work?
-Ben
Yeah that would totally work.
I was trying to think of something you could do to that would be temporary just to confirm how much extra lift is actually needed. If you have a transmission you could bolt onto the engine, you'd be able to connect the transmisision mount to stabilize the engine (front to back) and then you'd be able to just slip spacers between the engine block and the engine cradle to try different heights. Obviously the mounting holes in the block wouldn't line up anymore so the only thing holding the motor in place would be it's own weight (and that transmission mount further back).
Anyway, it would be a fast (non-fabricating) way to figure out how much extra height is really required to clear all 8 tubes. If it ends up being a lot more than you thought (or want), it would be nice not to have cut and re-welded those DIY mounts.
I was trying to think of something you could do to that would be temporary just to confirm how much extra lift is actually needed. If you have a transmission you could bolt onto the engine, you'd be able to connect the transmisision mount to stabilize the engine (front to back) and then you'd be able to just slip spacers between the engine block and the engine cradle to try different heights. Obviously the mounting holes in the block wouldn't line up anymore so the only thing holding the motor in place would be it's own weight (and that transmission mount further back).
Anyway, it would be a fast (non-fabricating) way to figure out how much extra height is really required to clear all 8 tubes. If it ends up being a lot more than you thought (or want), it would be nice not to have cut and re-welded those DIY mounts.
Hmm... that is a good idea. I don't have my tranny right now though - it's at buddy's house that is going through it. (I told him no hurry - whoops!)
Hey Ben... I had Kert make up some taller engine mounts just like you drew in post #50. It was a combination of things that got everything to sit right.
Nice! I knew I wasn't going crazy. I'm going to hit it hard Saturday (although likely going to car show with Makovai). We'll see what that brings.
Looks like I ended up with those brackets 3/4" taller than stock.
I did notice that was going to PM you about that tonight in fact.
I went and re-read your thread AGAIN
I believe I will be repeating your efforts with in-boarding the bracket, spacer, longer mounts, etc...
I went and re-read your thread AGAIN
I believe I will be repeating your efforts with in-boarding the bracket, spacer, longer mounts, etc...
So headers fit - sort of...
I am kind of in a holding pattern waiting for my transmission to be done - so can't verify final fitment - but I did verify that I needed to go up similar to what AJ did to get the headers to fit. With that, I ordered some 3/4" taller than stock brackets from Kert @ DIY4x.
Installed those this weekend, along with the headers. I have two interference points now
- but they do bolt on! So any ideas on what to do next - Minimum, I'm going to bolt tranny in next, and need to tighten the bolts on my engine cross-member.
Tight on #3 tube:
Ridiculous amount of room on the passenger side, except you can see where tube is rubbing upper shackle bolt just before header collector. AJ, how did you avoid this problem? I read your thread again - didn't seem to be an issue for you?
Hitting like a mother on the upper shackle bolt (you can see drag mark on the tube)
I am kind of in a holding pattern waiting for my transmission to be done - so can't verify final fitment - but I did verify that I needed to go up similar to what AJ did to get the headers to fit. With that, I ordered some 3/4" taller than stock brackets from Kert @ DIY4x.
Installed those this weekend, along with the headers. I have two interference points now
- but they do bolt on! So any ideas on what to do next - Minimum, I'm going to bolt tranny in next, and need to tighten the bolts on my engine cross-member. Tight on #3 tube:
Ridiculous amount of room on the passenger side, except you can see where tube is rubbing upper shackle bolt just before header collector. AJ, how did you avoid this problem? I read your thread again - didn't seem to be an issue for you?
Hitting like a mother on the upper shackle bolt (you can see drag mark on the tube)
I know you're running a big block, so it's probably that much worse, but I had plenty of room on the pass side too, but too tight on the drivers side. For me it was the shape of the headers, they flared way out on the drivers side but stayed in tight on the pass side. I don't know why or what to do to make it better, just figured I'd vent with you a bit
Weird Ben. Mine didn't have clearance issues on any of the shackle bolts.
