Ha! Wish I could raise my hand.
CK5
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72 K5 questions
- Thread starter bigcatt
- Start date
I only have a couple seconds this morning, but found some parts and some pics to help you out.
What you are looking to do is fix up the "Four Bolt Area". A lot of the parts that I have posted up are for the front "A" pillar, some are for the "B" that I'm guessing you will need to fix up next.
Here are some pics. I know that Greg has some better ones in his as he went further with the bottom of the "A"
Inner Rocker to make the 4 bolt area.
Front Cab support and you can still see where the new inner rocker was welded in.
http://www.gmcpauls.com/pictures/frontdoorpillarleftorright.jpg
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/cat...azer, Jimmy rocker box reinforcment panel.htm
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/catalog/Sheetmetal/discp/69-72 Blazer rear floor support.htm
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/catalog/Patch Panels/67-72 front cab suport.htm
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/catalog/Patch Panels/67-72 kick panel patch.htm
http://www.gmcpauls.com/pictures/69-72Blazer-JimmybedBpillarpatch.jpg
http://www.gmcpauls.com/pictures/6772outercabfloorextensioninnerrocker.jpg
Again, sorry this was so fast as I only had a couple seconds this morning to post up. But, it should give you something to chew on for a couple hours.
What you are looking to do is fix up the "Four Bolt Area". A lot of the parts that I have posted up are for the front "A" pillar, some are for the "B" that I'm guessing you will need to fix up next.
Here are some pics. I know that Greg has some better ones in his as he went further with the bottom of the "A"
Inner Rocker to make the 4 bolt area.
Front Cab support and you can still see where the new inner rocker was welded in.
http://www.gmcpauls.com/pictures/frontdoorpillarleftorright.jpg
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/cat...azer, Jimmy rocker box reinforcment panel.htm
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/catalog/Sheetmetal/discp/69-72 Blazer rear floor support.htm
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/catalog/Patch Panels/67-72 front cab suport.htm
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/catalog/Patch Panels/67-72 kick panel patch.htm
http://www.gmcpauls.com/pictures/69-72Blazer-JimmybedBpillarpatch.jpg
http://www.gmcpauls.com/pictures/6772outercabfloorextensioninnerrocker.jpg
Again, sorry this was so fast as I only had a couple seconds this morning to post up. But, it should give you something to chew on for a couple hours.
looks very similar to what i'm about to do on mine. Subscribed.
show of hands, anyone NOT been there? anyone? anyone? beuller?
Yep. That right there is a classic "1st Gen Hearbreaker"..... A truck that looks good from the outside, but is completely torn up with rust on the inside.
You need all the typical parts for that repair... A-pillar patch, front cab support, inner rocker/outer rocker. (Buy the truck version, not the 2-piece Blazer version... My thread shows the details)
Brace the doors and take measurements of the door opening dimensions (top, bottom and diagonals) before you cut all of that out. Did I mention brace the doors?
Also, brace the doors. Then don't forget the brace the doors.
Others will probably suggest that you brace the doors....that's a good idea also.
...and brace the doors. It's important. If you want to read a sad cautionary tale, check out the build thread from Grinch (bright green 1st Gen). He didn't brace the door openings.....did ALL the bodywork and got the truck into final paint, then found out the doors wouldn't fit into the openings anymore. The dimensions had all shifted when the rusty metal was cut away.
I believe you have been adequately warned on this subject.
-G
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P.S. Brace the doors. I too did not and I had to cut out a ton of welds and re flex my firewall and to this day I still don't think I have it set right.
I didn't have much time last post, but just incase nobody mentions it, remember to brace your door openings.
I think that I still have a PM from Kurt, where he had a ton if measurements with pics of the door openings if you need those before you start too.
I think that I still have a PM from Kurt, where he had a ton if measurements with pics of the door openings if you need those before you start too.
So if a guy was to buy a first gen Blazer/Jimmy and wanted to repair the rust on the rocker area, should you brace the doors!?? 
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I think ORD has a new product to produce, 1st Gen Door Brace
LOL! no kidding!I think ORD has a new product to produce, 1st Gen Door Brace
Door Brace
I am starting to think I should brace the door. Actually I already put the roof back on, the driver side sags without the roof. Thanks for all the advice and pictures and keep them coming. The previous owner gave me the inner and outer rockers and the braces, he was short about $1,000.00 in parts to get the job done. I am starting to figure out why he sold it to me. Once I dug into the rust bucket I realized my restoration budget needs to be adjusted slightly higher and Greg may be right about a inexpensive 1st gen K5.
I am starting to think I should brace the door. Actually I already put the roof back on, the driver side sags without the roof. Thanks for all the advice and pictures and keep them coming. The previous owner gave me the inner and outer rockers and the braces, he was short about $1,000.00 in parts to get the job done. I am starting to figure out why he sold it to me. Once I dug into the rust bucket I realized my restoration budget needs to be adjusted slightly higher and Greg may be right about a inexpensive 1st gen K5.
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
It would be cool to see those measurments if it isn't too much of a hassle Mike. I
Thanks!
Jacob
That would be awesome. That alone might save a lot of 1st gens from the crusher.FYI
I talked to Wes at classic heartbeat and he claims he will have offer a windshield frame replacement one day.
At The Bodyshop
Gave up on doing the rust repair myself after letting it sit for two months with only minuscule work getting done I decide it was worth it to hire a professional or it will never get done. I hired a Father and son team and the son drives a 1986 k5 that has a sweet paint job. Pretty much all sheet metal will be new. Fenders, hood, rear qtrs, door and all the rocker panel parts. I will post pics soon. Very excited about getting it done.
Craig
Gave up on doing the rust repair myself after letting it sit for two months with only minuscule work getting done I decide it was worth it to hire a professional or it will never get done. I hired a Father and son team and the son drives a 1986 k5 that has a sweet paint job. Pretty much all sheet metal will be new. Fenders, hood, rear qtrs, door and all the rocker panel parts. I will post pics soon. Very excited about getting it done.
Craig
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
Cool looks like they are making some good progress. I know it always seems to take longer than they say, but did they give you an estimate? Are you going to stick with your existing paint or change it up?
Estimate yes. Paint color I am probably going back with the sea foam green. I want it to look old school/original as possible. I am worried about it looking too nice. Any thoughts on paint would be appreciated.
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
Sorry, didn't mean to be forward, and wasn't trying to ask price, just if you they thought you would have it in time for summer cruising etc. I like the classic colors. Mine was changed to white and I like it, but if was the 1972 yellow it originally was, I would for sure rock that, even though it was more of a canary yellow.
Ryoken is the resident pro when it comes to paint, and did a pretty amazing job of walking Chief Brody through the whole process. Mine I think will always be a 20 ft paint job, as I like to do very mild wheeling that often involves brush, so I will have to buff out scratches anyway.
Ryoken is the resident pro when it comes to paint, and did a pretty amazing job of walking Chief Brody through the whole process. Mine I think will always be a 20 ft paint job, as I like to do very mild wheeling that often involves brush, so I will have to buff out scratches anyway.
The body shop is working on the less rusted side of the truck and is still having to fabricate a lot patch panels. If I had to guess on time 4-6 weeks. With my luck I will get it June 1st when its 100 degrees.
Sea foam green is a cool color..... Normally I'd have gone with the stock color on my own truck too, except that like so many people around here my truck was originally "ochre" (aka: baby poop yellow). I just can't bring myself to paint it that color after all of my hard work and effort.
It got to be tough to wait for the bodywork and paint, but later on you'll be happy you did it first. Bolting fresh parts onto a rusting truck is completely backwards.....it really needs to be built from the inside-out.
Keep a close eye on them as they start doing panel alignment and make sure they get the outer rocker panel alignment correct. Many amateur restorations get it wrong, and it ends up set back 1/4" or more from the adjacent panels. It's a detail worth getting right.
-G
It got to be tough to wait for the bodywork and paint, but later on you'll be happy you did it first. Bolting fresh parts onto a rusting truck is completely backwards.....it really needs to be built from the inside-out.
Keep a close eye on them as they start doing panel alignment and make sure they get the outer rocker panel alignment correct. Many amateur restorations get it wrong, and it ends up set back 1/4" or more from the adjacent panels. It's a detail worth getting right.
-G
