'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?

[Dirsuper]

I'm with you. I just used Summit because it was 'all in one' and I was just getting estimates. However, really funny timing. Last night I was shopping for new oil cooler lines for my '88 K5 (daily driver). Searched all the usual parts stores, and the best price (by $20 each) was Summit. Kinda eye opening.

However, along the lines of saving money, anyone have a good source for lift kit and everything to rebuild the outer axles (ball joints, bearings, bushings, etc.)?

 

[82355]

Oh Summit is fine. People just like to buy fancy aftermarket parts, instead of stock replacement.

Martin

 

[Dirsuper]

Progress, however slight........
Been really busy doing some grading and installing a drainage culvert, 500ish ft of drain pipe, etc. in preparation for the rain this year. Thank god all of my buddies are contractors and getting a skip loader is as easy as driving a mile, jumping on, and driving it to my place! Not much (to say the least), but it's something.

 

[Greg72]

Check that off your list, and keep on pushing forward....

-G

 

[Dirsuper]

Agree Greg, little at a time. I have probably read every thread on every Blazer/Chevy Truck Forum at this point. I've sifted through a few hundred build threads, spent a lot of time thinking/staring at my '72 and pictures of others and know where I want to go from here. I am not going to take the body off the frame. I don't want to end up with this thing so nice I won't drive it. Probably the best metaphor for the direction I am going to head with this is simply the picture of the rattle can painted crossmember pieces above. Gonna clean it all up, paint it all, replace all rubber bushings, bearings, gaskets, etc. Lift it 2-4" (still debating that one, which is good since I don't have the $$$ for the lift kit yet), hope to squeeze 35s under it (it will not be wheeled off road), rebuild the engine, rebuild the transfer case, get some decent seats/carpet, spruce up the interior, etc. I'd like to be done in 2 years......maybe 2.5 depending on how cash flow works out. Hell, maybe I'll call it the 'Rattle Can Build.'

Although, I was doing the math this weekend. High quality rattle cans are ~$7.50/each here in CA (or at least at TSC in Ramona). I can buy a spray gun (I have a really solid 80 gallon Ingersoll Rand compressor) and buy paint by the gallon for all of the small parts, frame, undercarriage, etc. and probably save a fortune. Hell, I bought a $20 sandblast gun at TSC and had those previously oil/grease/grime/mud caked crossmember pieces shiny in about a hour (gun clogs every 10 seconds and you have to bang it on something). Regardless, well worth $20. Would have taken me hours to get them that clean with scraper, wire brush, etc.

 

[Greg72]

Agree Greg, little at a time. I have probably read every thread on every Blazer/Chevy Truck Forum at this point. I've sifted through a few hundred build threads, spent a lot of time thinking/staring at my '72 and pictures of others and know where I want to go from here. I am not going to take the body off the frame. I don't want to end up with this thing so nice I won't drive it. Probably the best metaphor for the direction I am going to head with this is simply the picture of the rattle can painted crossmember pieces above. Gonna clean it all up, paint it all, replace all rubber bushings, bearings, gaskets, etc. Lift it 2-4" (still debating that one, which is good since I don't have the $$$ for the lift kit yet), hope to squeeze 35s under it (it will not be wheeled off road), rebuild the engine, rebuild the transfer case, get some decent seats/carpet, spruce up the interior, etc. I'd like to be done in 2 years......maybe 2.5 depending on how cash flow works out. Hell, maybe I'll call it the 'Rattle Can Build.'

Although, I was doing the math this weekend. High quality rattle cans are ~$7.50/each here in CA (or at least at TSC in Ramona). I can buy a spray gun (I have a really solid 80 gallon Ingersoll Rand compressor) and buy paint by the gallon for all of the small parts, frame, undercarriage, etc. and probably save a fortune. Hell, I bought a $20 sandblast gun at TSC and had those previously oil/grease/grime/mud caked crossmember pieces shiny in about a hour (gun clogs every 10 seconds and you have to bang it on something). Regardless, well worth $20. Would have taken me hours to get them that clean with scraper, wire brush, etc.

You might be happier with 33's for a street driven truck. 35 is still a pretty serious amount of tire to make room for (lift, cutting fenders, etc). Just a thought.... you could run 33's with a smaller lift...maybe just a body lift and some zero-rates?

I recently picked up a few cans of Eastwood Chassis Black (satin)... the deluxe version with a higher solids content. I used it as a topcoat on my DD, and it really laid-down nice and really looks "factory" not too shiny, not too dull.... it's supposed to be pretty tough and durable but I haven't had it on long enough to assess that. The nice thing is that touch ups later on are easy.... if you get your frame professionally painted or powdercoated you really can't do much to cover chips or scratches later on.

The Eastwood stuff was around $20/can but they are pretty good sized cans and I think I only ended up using 2 of the 3 that I bought.


-G

 

[Dirsuper]

I'll check out that Eastwood paint. Appreciate the tip.

Yeah, my DD ('88 K5, stock height) has 33s and it looks good, but not what I am going for on the '72. Some people just look at me odd when I say this, but others immediately get what I mean - I want to hear Metallica (old Metallica) in my head when I look at it.......but I still want to be able to climb in and out of it as I get old(er). I have to change the springs (at least the rear) regardless. A PO did an 'add a leaf' that is.....well....not professionally done (to be nice). There are two chunks of spring on each side, one of them is hanging out a few inches....overall a pretty ghetto set up.

I know I am nuking out the lift selection, but before I drop a grand, I want to make sure I get the right one.

On another note, if any of you guys are in southern Louisiana, I am flying into NO on Friday and driving to Livonia, stay the night, and running with a 93 year old WWII vet (Ernie) who is running across the country, by himself, on Saturday the 14th. I met him when he started in San Diego 3 years ago. Me and my family ran with him for about 3 months, every Saturday morning (he runs 3X week, and does not really move that fast). Anyway, I have a group of Navy buddies I meet with in different places every year and last year we met Ernie in New Mexico, and this year Louisiana. From the general tone of the board, I figure there might be others who appreciate Ernie as much as I do, so I thought I'd throw it out there. Needless to say, when we part ways with Ernie we are going back to NO to hangout together and drink a 'few' beers over the weekend. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll send details.

 

[Greg72]

I hear Dio's "Holy Diver" in my head a lot when I finally build something that comes out cool on my truck....

Mostly that guitar riff that starts about 1:00 into the song after the long lead-in.

I suspect you probably know what I'm talking about.


-G

 

[Dirsuper]

Absolutely!

Playing around tonight I put this wooden box that is 4 and 1/8" high on the seat. Don't know how accurate that is, but getting in and out is absolutely no problem. I believe I am over-thinking this. I don't think I'll have a problem going 4" and 35s. If I am missing something, someone please enlighten me.

 

[Greg72]

4" and 35s might work on the street.... I'd still be a little concerned about sharp turns and clearance in the front fenders. Are you planning / willing to trim the fangs and trailing edge of the front fender? You might be able to mitigate some of this type of interference with careful wheel offset selection.

-G

 

[campfire]

Absolutely!

Playing around tonight I put this wooden box that is 4 and 1/8" high on the seat. Don't know how accurate that is, but getting in and out is absolutely no problem. I believe I am over-thinking this. I don't think I'll have a problem going 4" and 35s. If I am missing something, someone please enlighten me.

View attachment 191193

Did you try putting the box on the floor and seeing if you would have a problem getting your foot to that height? I'd think that would be the first issue you'd run into. How much additional height will the tires contribute?

 

[Greg72]

Did you try putting the box on the floor and seeing if you would have a problem getting your foot to that height? I'd think that would be the first issue you'd run into. How much additional height will the tires contribute?

Good point! 4" box is good for the suspension lift simulation, but you have to account for the tire height difference as well... There are a few extra inches to account there as well too....

-G

 

[Dirsuper]

First thing the wife said when I got her to come out to the shop and try it. I guess that is all that mattered to me because I just kinda put my butt in the seat and slide in.

As far as tires adding height, I am really going crazy trying to figure this out. My '88 (DD) is stock height with 33s, and it's the same height as my '72 which currently had 32s. It's so friggin confusing! I'll go 4 and build adapters to make a step work. You can grab the roll bar to pull yourself in, so that's a plus.

You can see the height of them both in pic below.

 

[Greg72]

First thing the wife said when I got her to come out to the shop and try it. I guess that is all that mattered to me because I just kinda put my butt in the seat and slide in.

As far as tires adding height, I am really going crazy trying to figure this out. My '88 (DD) is stock height with 33s, and it's the same height as my '72 which currently had 32s. It's so friggin confusing! I'll go 4 and build adapters to make a step work. You can grab the roll bar to pull yourself in, so that's a plus.

You can see the height of them both in pic below.

View attachment 191194

Ok....if the '72 is on 32s you need another 1.5" under the bottom of the tire to simulate a true 35" diameter tire (many 35s don't measure out to a true 35, BTW).

Jack up the tires and throw some 2x4 scraps under each tire and you've got 1.5" more tire!



-G

 

[sreidmx]

Nice shop man!

 

[Dirsuper]

Greg, If I can get out there tonight, I'll try that. Thank you SReid on the shop comment. It's my sanctuary. I absolutely love it. My General Contractor nailed every aspect of it perfectly.......the part behind me in the pic is really cool, but due to some of the 'decorations', some might be 'offended', that's why I left that part out........we are such a 'sensitive' nation these days......

So I was cruising through the parking lot at work (we are spread over 5 building and about a 4 block area of Rancho Bernardo) and I see a Jeep with really nice sized tires. Jump out and measure - 33.5" high, exactly. They are 315/70-17. My handy metric to American converter says that's same as 34.5/12.4-17.

Question, would 35s on a 17 inch rim be the same height as 35s on a 15" rim? I know there are width factors I am ignoring, but just trying to get a good idea. The 33s on my '88 are 32" tall, and the 32s on my '72 are 31" tall. Hell, for that matter, if anyone has 35/12.5-15s on any vehicle with an 8" rim and is willing to give me the height with it mounted on a vehicle/vehicle on the ground, that would be really helpful.

 

[Greg72]

Greg, If I can get out there tonight, I'll try that. Thank you SReid on the shop comment. It's my sanctuary. I absolutely love it. My General Contractor nailed every aspect of it perfectly.......the part behind me in the pic is really cool, but due to some of the 'decorations', some might be 'offended', that's why I left that part out........we are such a 'sensitive' nation these days......

So I was cruising through the parking lot at work (we are spread over 5 building and about a 4 block area of Rancho Bernardo) and I see a Jeep with really nice sized tires. Jump out and measure - 33.5" high, exactly. They are 315/70-17. My handy metric to American converter says that's same as 34.5/12.4-17.

Question, would 35s on a 17 inch rim be the same height as 35s on a 15" rim? I know there are width factors I am ignoring, but just trying to get a good idea. The 33s on my '88 are 32" tall, and the 32s on my '72 are 31" tall. Hell, for that matter, if anyone has 35/12.5-15s on any vehicle with an 8" rim and is willing to give me the height with it mounted on a vehicle/vehicle on the ground, that would be really helpful.

My only concern with 35's on a 17" wheel are the aesthetics....

The more "classic" look is the balloonier(?) style of a 15" wheel and a large sidewalled 35. When you move to the 17" wheel, the sidewall starts to get a bit thin and the overall proportion of wheel-to-tire just looks a bit "off" to me.....


Certainly understand you probably have a LOT more tire choices these days with a 17" wheel, but thought I'd throw that out anyway for your consideration.


-G

 

[campfire]

So I was cruising through the parking lot at work (we are spread over 5 building and about a 4 block area of Rancho Bernardo) and I see a Jeep with really nice sized tires. Jump out and measure - 33.5" high, exactly. They are 315/70-17. My handy metric to American converter says that's same as 34.5/12.4-17.

Question, would 35s on a 17 inch rim be the same height as 35s on a 15" rim? I know there are width factors I am ignoring, but just trying to get a good idea. The 33s on my '88 are 32" tall, and the 32s on my '72 are 31" tall. Hell, for that matter, if anyone has 35/12.5-15s on any vehicle with an 8" rim and is willing to give me the height with it mounted on a vehicle/vehicle on the ground, that would be really helpful.

Tire sizes are variable. What one company calls 35" might be a 34" from another company. This is one of several reasons that it's recommended to run matching tires (although many of us mismatch anyways). Also, as the tire wears down, the diameter decreases. This can be quite significant if you have 1/2" of wearable tread on each side of the tire. That jeep tire is now smaller than it originally was.

a 35/12.5-15 should b3 the same diameter as a 35/12.5-17. But it's safe to assume that variation will be present from tire to tire and especially from model to model. Best to take the sizes as a general guideline. Otherwise your tape measure will leave you disappointed.

Also, you will get more accurate and consistent measurements if you measure the circumference and then divide by pi (3.14). This will compensate for any irregularities that you may encounter. And obviously tire pressure has a large effect as well.

 

[Bigblue7-2]

I hear Dio's "Holy Diver" in my head a lot when I finally build something that comes out cool on my truck....

Mostly that guitar riff that starts about 1:00 into the song after the long lead-in.

I suspect you probably know what I'm talking about.


-G

I'm a bit of a hard rock guy.... should look into killswitch engaged's cover of "holy diver"

Pretty BA!


Sick shop man! Nice to have space for all the toys!

 

[Dirsuper]

I will keep the wheels that are on it now and just sandblast/paint them. They are the same wheels that came stock on my '88 (and are still on it), and I love those wheels. So, 15x8 for the wheel. I'm going to upgrade my little 'experiment' tonight (unless wife gets pissed off that I am in the shop, again, right before I leave for 5 days). I'll put the tires on 2x4s, find another 4" high...something for the floor, keep the one on the seat, and see what it is like to get in and out. Last night, right after I say, "Screw it, I am going 4" the wife throws out, "We are not getting any younger (we're mid 40s) and as many injuries as you have had (retired from the Navy with an impressively large medical record!).....blah blah" (she's an RN so she thinks of things like that). Of course I could just carry around a friggin milk crate.........with a string to pull it in the cab behind me......