Dude, it took me and Nick more than 4 hours to remove all the factory lines from my Blazer, and that was with a bunch of my drive train out. There is probably 100 bends and God knows how many flares.
CK5
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'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?
- Thread starter Dirsuper
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Dude, it took me and Nick more than 4 hours to remove all the factory lines from my Blazer, and that was with a bunch of my drive train out. There is probably 100 bends and God knows how many flares.
He has the body off though. That would be a HUGE time saver.
Martin
Martin
This. He has huge amounts of access. Should be a snap compared to a normal brake job.
Long conversation with The Right Stuff (manufacturer of the brake lines I bought) led to the realization that there are three 'parts' to the kit: 1. Front to rear line, 2. Front lines, 3. rear wheel cylinders to center junction. I received the wrong #2, and did not receive #3. So, the correct items are in the mail.....given that, I am doing some research/learnin/ordering parts. I've got a cart going with a Painless Wiring Harness and need to add the brake booster/master cylinder/proportioning valve. Does anyone know if this part:
Classic Performance Master Cylinder and Booster Kits 6772BB2-11
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-6772bb2-11/applications
Is the correct one for the Blazer? Given recent history, I am a little gun shy.
Appreciate the help.
Classic Performance Master Cylinder and Booster Kits 6772BB2-11
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-6772bb2-11/applications
Is the correct one for the Blazer? Given recent history, I am a little gun shy.
Appreciate the help.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
There was a switch in 71 to disc brakes so there's not a universal kit for all of 67-72.
I'd suggest going to a local parts store, you can get all that stuff for a lot cheaper and you can see that it matches. The proportioning valve is the thing that's different. If actually like to ditch mine and go with an adjustable one instead.
Thanks man, but in the interest of full disclosure, I did confirm that is the correct one.
BT
Anyone know if this neck will work?
BT
Anyone know if this neck will work?
For anyone else facing 'The Fuel Tank Dilemma', I found this on 67-72 and I thought it was genius in its simplicity:
"I cut the old curved neck off, shortened the the new filler by an inch and used 1 3/8 id filler hose to make a coupling. That made it easier to move the neck around when installing."
I'm still kicking it around myself, but it is an option.
"I cut the old curved neck off, shortened the the new filler by an inch and used 1 3/8 id filler hose to make a coupling. That made it easier to move the neck around when installing."
I'm still kicking it around myself, but it is an option.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Should be decent option. The hose was kinda hard to find though. Had to order it online.
I thought about it last night, and it was a topic of conversation with my buddies since we had a BeerFest, (or 'cookout' as the ladies call it) last night. I'm going to go that route. I like the added flexibility. For anyone else looking for the ever-elusive 1 3/8" ID Fuel Hose, I found it here:
http://www.fillernecksupply.com/sold-per-inch-6/
For venting, one of my buddies had (what I think is) a great idea - run a hose from the vent on the passenger side into a 'T' and connect the one on the driver's side, and then run them both up alongside the filler tube.
http://www.fillernecksupply.com/sold-per-inch-6/
For venting, one of my buddies had (what I think is) a great idea - run a hose from the vent on the passenger side into a 'T' and connect the one on the driver's side, and then run them both up alongside the filler tube.
Driving the '88 back from lake Henshaw a little while ago, I had this random thought/question. My 'plan' since pulling the body has been to finish all frame related items (to include engine, transmission, wires, tank, etc.) then drop on body, and do wiring harness, put front clip back together and move to body/paint (I'm leaning strongly towards doing body and paint myself, just to learn). However, I think I might be looking at this wrong. I did sift quite a few build threads today (here and 67-72) and I guess that is what got me thinking about this.........would it be smarter to build some kind of 'super cart) with strong casters, put some 4x6s across the body (passenger to driver's side), roll that under lift, place body on 'Super Cart', and then do body and paint on that because I could roll it outside for sanding and such, roll it into the temp spray booth I plan to build inside my shop,
So, get it on the cart, pull windshield, all wires, all lights/frames, etc, prep body, paint, and then put the body on the frame, install wiring harness and --------->
Any thoughts/words of wisdom?
So, get it on the cart, pull windshield, all wires, all lights/frames, etc, prep body, paint, and then put the body on the frame, install wiring harness and --------->
Any thoughts/words of wisdom?
It sounds like a huge commitment (probably like pulling the body did initially
) but it will be a lot easier and you will get a better result if you put the body on a rotisserie for prep and paint. You will have 360-degree access to the whole thing which will make it go a lot faster..... And you can move it outside for spot blasting, sanding etc.It would be much better to drop a fully painted body down onto a fully painted, detailed rolling chassis. Like you said.... After that it's just a matter of connecting some plumbing and wiring and doing the interior work. It's all "clean" work at that point. So you aren't sanding bodywork on top of a clean chassis and making a mess of stuff that used to be clean and perfect.
Nobody wants to BUY a rotisserie, but maybe you can find a good quality one used on Craigslist or wherever... Use it for you project, then sell it for what you paid a few months from now.
-G
Or keep it and build another , this thing is turning out nice
Thank you Fastazz!
Greg, great idea as always. I'll start looking around. I gotta say though, I am such a wimp with that body......hell, I am paranoid just having it on the lift, the idea of putting it on a rotisserie scares me a great deal. I looked at a few pics of them, and I just see little nubs on each end. How the heck do you put a body on there in a way that it does not taco and does not fall off? If I built a cart I could still roll it outside, but I would lose that uber-flexibility of getting the 360 roll option, which would be really nice. I am a bit limited though since the PO had the floors Rhino-lined......I don't see me ever getting that stuff off. My plan was to just cover it with some type of carpet, or rubber, or yet to be discovered mystery covering. My main focus is the interior/exterior painted parts........lots to think over and research. Appreciate the great idea.
On another note, what better way to recover from going back to work after a three day weekend than this:
Greg, great idea as always. I'll start looking around. I gotta say though, I am such a wimp with that body......hell, I am paranoid just having it on the lift, the idea of putting it on a rotisserie scares me a great deal. I looked at a few pics of them, and I just see little nubs on each end. How the heck do you put a body on there in a way that it does not taco and does not fall off? If I built a cart I could still roll it outside, but I would lose that uber-flexibility of getting the 360 roll option, which would be really nice. I am a bit limited though since the PO had the floors Rhino-lined......I don't see me ever getting that stuff off. My plan was to just cover it with some type of carpet, or rubber, or yet to be discovered mystery covering. My main focus is the interior/exterior painted parts........lots to think over and research. Appreciate the great idea.
On another note, what better way to recover from going back to work after a three day weekend than this:
Wow. Thank you Ashman. That is freakin amazing that he is giving that stuff away for free just to give back......in today's world, it's particularly refreshing to see people like that.
You guys gave me a lot to think over.........that would be a great project to improve my DISMAL welding 'skills.' ..........damn........delay the Blazer to take on a side project......I love the idea of (literally) bolting the rotisserie mounts to the body mounts. I could even use long bolts and put some longitudinal 4x4's for non-taco support......My mind is going a million miles an hour.
You guys gave me a lot to think over.........that would be a great project to improve my DISMAL welding 'skills.' ..........damn........delay the Blazer to take on a side project......I love the idea of (literally) bolting the rotisserie mounts to the body mounts. I could even use long bolts and put some longitudinal 4x4's for non-taco support......My mind is going a million miles an hour.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I'll add a friendly but dissenting voice if you are really going to paint it yourself. If you were removing rust and doing lots of other stuff underneath, a rotisserie makes a lot of sense. But I think a wooden frame on wheels would be just as good, maybe safer if you're just painting it. Paint should generally be applied with the vehicle sitting in the same orientation that it does when it sits on the road. I think that's more for making sure metallic paints lay down correctly, but if you're going to go through the effort to learn how to paint well, why not use best practices?
Theoretically, a rotisserie would let you rotate the thing around to get better a better spray position on the top sides since the sides of the vehicle are easy as-is), but a convertible k5 really has no top side except the hood. The risk of getting it to rotate quickly and safely (without bumping any fresh paint), seems greater than just getting a step ladder or building some scaffolding alongside the wooden frame to get access to the top of the hood and windshield frame.
It's also totally possible that I missed some other thing you needed to do, but I thought I'd throw it out there.
a big advantage to painting in a standard position is the ability to "load up" clear on your most important buffing surfaces, generally the hood and roof..
I would never rotate a car on a rotisserie during a paint job..... it's asking for a prob....
and this coming from a guy who used to run cement mixers while painting them so I could spin the barrels....
I would never rotate a car on a rotisserie during a paint job..... it's asking for a prob....
and this coming from a guy who used to run cement mixers while painting them so I could spin the barrels....
Good points about what the rotisserie is REALLY useful for...
My motivation was to give you easy access to the underside for repairs and paint. I wouldn't expect that anyone would try to spin a truck in realtime to paint the whole thing... That is definitely asking for trouble.
However, you could get the entire underside into paint first.... Let that dry, then work the top side.
-G
My motivation was to give you easy access to the underside for repairs and paint. I wouldn't expect that anyone would try to spin a truck in realtime to paint the whole thing... That is definitely asking for trouble.
However, you could get the entire underside into paint first.... Let that dry, then work the top side.
-G
I'm not a paint expert, but I think when I was done with the bottom side I'd roll it back over and mount it back on the frame. Paint the top & sides in place.
What I actually did was paint the entire thing in place, but it's far from being a good paint job. Treat my input accordingly.
What I actually did was paint the entire thing in place, but it's far from being a good paint job. Treat my input accordingly.
Thought about this all day (freakin LONG day) at work. Rotisserie not for me, Great idea, but I'm too much of a.........too paranoid about screwing up the body. So I'm brain storming cart ideas......height, stabilization, ability to move easy, etc. - and I start thinking......'If only I had another frame to drop it onto for the body work, perfect height to get in and remove seats/rollbar/windshield/wires/etc.....easy to move around......stable.' So I'm kicking that around and realize - use my frame. So I get the frame (sans wires, brake lines, and extras, etc.) dirty - big deal, I put the body back on the lift (would do anyway to install all of that stuff and engine/tranny), wash it, touch up paint, and go forward. So, I'm actually leaning towards taking an old horse mat (have a ton of them because we have a horse and I use them in my home Crossfit gym) cut up little 4" squares to put between the body and the frame, lower it onto the frame and just attach with some vice grips and C-clamps, do all the body work (covering exposed frame parts for primer/paint) and lift body back up. Seems like the obvious choice to me. I am not worried about underneath, I plan to clean, grind down any nasty stuff/deal with that, and coat it all with some textured coating. With the floorboards coated with Rhinoliner, I'm already not going to go to bare metal on all of that......doing as I plan it will remain like new at least until I am in the ground.
What am I missing? It seems like such an obvious solution that I feel like I am missing an important point.........
What am I missing? It seems like such an obvious solution that I feel like I am missing an important point.........
