73 K20....crossmember time

[skunked]

remember those caps are held on with a seal so that's likely the reason why it won't budge. I've had to soak them and tap them with a hammer in the past and they would always break loose for me. Getting the studs out can be a real bitch but that's not necessary at this point. Heat is an option but it may damage the kingpin bushing Just try not to pry and f-up the knuckle to cap sealing surface.

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

Im curious, what would a stud extractor do that double nutting doesnt do? I would be inclined to weld a nut onto the stud and try heating the knuckle around where the stud goes through the cap.

haha im not sure to be honest. Ive never used one so im not sure it would do the trick or if the extractor is no better than double nutting. Im going to try to hunt down some better nuts to try again with. I think i need to heat as well...

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

remember those caps are held on with a seal so that's likely the reason why it won't budge. I've had to soak them and tap them with a hammer in the past and they would always break loose for me. Getting the studs out can be a real bitch but that's not necessary at this point. Heat is an option but it may damage the kingpin bushing Just try not to pry and f-up the knuckle to cap sealing surface.

Good to know. It definitely looks like theres some sort of sealant crap in there. My studs are in rough shape too so i might as well replace those. its been soaked and beat with several hammers and not a budge. We'll see if the kroil got through to it tonight.

 

[skunked]

might have to resort to some heat.

I have all the stock D60 caps, springs and hardware if you need any of it. I went springless so it's not any use to me.

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

might have to resort to some heat.

I have all the stock D60 caps, springs and hardware if you need any of it. I went springless so it's not any use to me.

Ok thanks i may need something! Im getting mine off tonight come hell or highwater. That cap looks good! I can tell that sometime down the rode ill machine new springless arms or make the one i have now into springless. Still debating on highsteer. I think for simplicity and frame clearance sake i wont go highsteer for a while.

 

[skunked]

Ok thanks i may need something! Im getting mine off tonight come hell or highwater. That cap looks good! I can tell that sometime down the rode ill machine new springless arms or make the one i have now into springless. Still debating on highsteer. I think for simplicity and frame clearance sake i wont go highsteer for a while.

yep......

Hi-steer opens up a whole other can of worms for sure. I actually have a set of WFO hi-steer arms with a WFO tie rod sitting in my garage. Decided against it because of the work that is required to run that setup. Add hydro assist and it can get real interesting with the crossmember and oil pan clearance.

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

yep......

Hi-steer opens up a whole other can of worms for sure. I actually have a set of WFO hi-steer arms with a WFO tie rod sitting in my garage. Decided against it because of the work that is required to run that setup. Add hydro assist and it can get real interesting with the crossmember and oil pan clearance.

Exactly.

I think its more of a pain than its worth. Eventually ill have this thing on a trailer with full hydro. As for now id like to just gave a spare tie rod. Just bought a chassis unlimited front diff cover so i can burn some tabs on once i have my hydro stuff

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

I forgot to mention my castor is at negative 5.8 degrees. Im think the shims are maybe a few degrees. I should be in the 7-8 area right?

 

[skunked]

I forgot to mention my castor is at negative 5.8 degrees. Im think the shims are maybe a few degrees. I should be in the 7-8 area right?

It's negative? If so that's your issue..... Chevy's came 8 degrees POSITIVE and Dodges were around 2 positive

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

It's negative? If so that's your issue..... Chevy's came 8 degrees POSITIVE and Dodges were around 2 positive

Damnit i just looked at that and still got it wrong lol. Its definitely positive....shims will be gone and that should clear up that issue. Im sure that didnt help my death wobble. How severe is being off 2.2 degrees?

 

[skunked]

it looks positive in the photos.

Either way those shims need to come out, AL shims are bad news. If it was me I'd take those shims out and go drive it. If it still has bump steer, replace the steering dampener. Still and issue then look closer at the kingpins.

my $.02

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

it looks positive in the photos.

Either way those shims need to come out, AL shims are bad news. If it was me I'd take those shims out and go drive it. If it still has bump steer, replace the steering dampener. Still and issue then look closer at the kingpins.

my $.02

I appreciate all the help!

Yeah those are going to be gone when i do the zero rates...hopefully this weekend.

My tentative plan was to do zero rates, get rid of shims, throw spacers in the kingpins (increase rate for 40" tires) and then test drive it. I think the damper is more or less shot but ive heard it wont keep you from having DW. It'll be gone soon for hydro...

I also got some new springs and bushings for $20 from a friend, may as well put those in since im there.

 

[skunked]

I appreciate all the help!

Yeah those are going to be gone when i do the zero rates...hopefully this weekend.

My tentative plan was to do zero rates, get rid of shims, throw spacers in the kingpins (increase rate for 40" tires) and then test drive it. I think the damper is more or less shot but ive heard it wont keep you from having DW. It'll be gone soon for hydro...

I also got some new springs and bushings for $20 from a friend, may as well put those in since im there.

a dampener can get rid of it.....and for $30 it's worth a shot until you get assist. When you pull the springs compare them to the ones you have, I've seen them visually shorter from being worn out.

 

[dremu]

The damper just takes a minute to remove, and it's also easy to test. It's like a shock absorber, but without the springiness (highly technical term), so you should be able to compress/extended it by hand and it should move smoothly. My old one, I could feel it bind up along the range of travel, moving it by hand, so that was easy to identify.

I'm also not convinced they do anything other than mask other trouble, so IME, take the thing off, sort out what's going on, and put it back on only after you've got everything else dialled in.

-- A

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

a dampener can get rid of it.....and for $30 it's worth a shot until you get assist. When you pull the springs compare them to the ones you have, I've seen them visually shorter from being worn out.

Ok that could help im sure! Yeah im sure the springs are tires if there original.

The damper just takes a minute to remove, and it's also easy to test. It's like a shock absorber, but without the springiness (highly technical term), so you should be able to compress/extended it by hand and it should move smoothly. My old one, I could feel it bind up along the range of travel, moving it by hand, so that was easy to identify.

I'm also not convinced they do anything other than mask other trouble, so IME, take the thing off, sort out what's going on, and put it back on only after you've got everything else dialled in.

-- A

Ok ill try that. i believe its just like a dirtbike damper right? if you go slow you can push it in and out but sudden movements should dampen if its still good. Ive heard other say that you should be able to achieve no death wobble even without a damper. Im sure its on there for a reason...

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

Ok so ive found my problem! Well most of it anyway...



Heres my brake springy thingies...





Operation zero rate is starting tonight...

 

[skunked]

how did you finally get that bastard off?

the spring looks sprung.......I assume you'll be swapping out the passenger side spring and KP bushing too?

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

I found some 1/2-20 nuts that were lock flange style so they worked against each other when really tightened down. I also used quite a bit of heat!

Yeah i found the same thing on the passenger side and i got bushings and springs for both sides. Im making some spacers today since the washers werent the right thing to put in there.

I found a guy with a set of 56 inch springs for $60 and front and rear drive shafts for the same year k5 for $100! Im excited to have some spares.

I also just bought a chassis unlimited front diff cover so i can attach my ram assist when that gets bought.

 

[y5mgisi]

Nice!

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

Nice!

Thanks! Itll be back on the street again this weekend! Hopefully with the front drive shaft in...