CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

73 K20....crossmember time

Okay so I was checking out the truck tonight and its become apparent I need to fix some things. The front seals on my d60 are pissing all over. I already need to pull the cover due to it leaking and needing some machining for my tie rod clearance. I know skunked had some problems with over filling the 60. Maybe its pissing oil because im over filling?

I swear I read 3 quarts of oil but maybe thats way too much?

The next order of business is dealing with my transfer case. its grinding terrible. Theres clearly something rubbing or seized inside of it. Im not crazy about the idea of dumping any more than $100 into it. Maybe itll be an easy fix... fork or something. Either way I think its smart to take the box out since its leaking as well. I havent found any reasonably priced 208s to replace mine but I could have a look inside and see how cooked it is.

My hesitation for rebuilding it is because im going to swap in an sm465 this year so I dont want to burn up money I could spend on a different setup.

I also want to keep wheeling and limit my down time. im thinking ill start my manual swap in December. I know I need to do ring and pinions too. Im not sure how long that takes but I have all the tools needed to do so. Theres still at least 3 months more of wheeling opportunities so im trying to wheel it as much as I can before she goes under the knife.


Just thinking out loud haha.
 
probably worth taking a look at the t-case so it doesn't leave you stranded but I would skip the axle seals for now. Later when you do gears and the carrier is out it's easier to tackle those seals.

After doing all that work and watching mine still leak, I wanted to light the damn truck on fire. I'll save you the frustration and just tell you to add oil and enjoy the rig for the rest of the summer.

and if you see a t-case up here and want me to snag it just let me know.
 
probably worth taking a look at the t-case so it doesn't leave you stranded but I would skip the axle seals for now. Later when you do gears and the carrier is out it's easier to tackle those seals.

After doing all that work and watching mine still leak, I wanted to light the damn truck on fire. I'll save you the frustration and just tell you to add oil and enjoy the rig for the rest of the summer.

and if you see a t-case up here and want me to snag it just let me know.


Yeah my thoughts exactly. I think something is broken inside but its not destroyed or popping out of gear.

Yeah that axle seals just suck. Slingin oil everywhere. Theres no way in hell im pulling the shafts to change seals without putting 5.38 gears and the locker in though so im on board with waiting. Do you know how much oil your holding after it stopped leaking?

I know you mentioned possible wear on the axle where the seal meets up. I was unaware but my dad says they make a shim for it. It if you were really feeling fancy you could build up some tig weld and throw it in a lathe. Ill let you know if i cross that bridge in the future lol.

Ok thanks! Im having a hell of a time not pulling the trigger on a 465/205 for $250 in galt... lol
 
Yeah my thoughts exactly. I think something is broken inside but its not destroyed or popping out of gear.

Yeah that axle seals just suck. Slingin oil everywhere. Theres no way in hell im pulling the shafts to change seals without putting 5.38 gears and the locker in though so im on board with waiting. Do you know how much oil your holding after it stopped leaking?

I know you mentioned possible wear on the axle where the seal meets up. I was unaware but my dad says they make a shim for it. It if you were really feeling fancy you could build up some tig weld and throw it in a lathe. Ill let you know if i cross that bridge in the future lol.

Ok thanks! Im having a hell of a time not pulling the trigger on a 465/205 for $250 in galt... lol

You missed the 465/205 that was 150 last week :whistle:

on the seals, there are several different types I found out. Apparently the later model stupid duty Ferds use an upgraded seal. The pitting I had was so minimal I still don't think that would cause the leak. And it still leaks btw so I know there is enough oil for it to leak :haha:

I'll probably run these from ORD, designed to keep the crap out of the axle tubes
D60%20Outer%20Axle%20Seal.jpg

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Dana 60 outer axle seals. The factory didn't use seals at the ends of the tubes and that lets them get full of mud, dirt and water. These keep all of the trash out of your axle and protect the shafts and inner axle seals. There isn't a seal surface on the axle shaft so these fit super snug and you pack the seal with grease. $35/each - GU5117 Buy Now[/FONT]
 
probably worth taking a look at the t-case so it doesn't leave you stranded but I would skip the axle seals for now. Later when you do gears and the carrier is out it's easier to tackle those seals.

After doing all that work and watching mine still leak, I wanted to light the damn truck on fire. I'll save you the frustration and just tell you to add oil and enjoy the rig for the rest of the summer.

and if you see a t-case up here and want me to snag it just let me know.

You missed the 465/205 that was 150 last week :whistle:

on the seals, there are several different types I found out. Apparently the later model stupid duty Ferds use an upgraded seal. The pitting I had was so minimal I still don't think that would cause the leak. And it still leaks btw so I know there is enough oil for it to leak :haha:

I'll probably run these from ORD, designed to keep the crap out of the axle tubes
D60%20Outer%20Axle%20Seal.jpg



Damn! His add says obo lol. I really need to re gear before i get the lack luster low gear of the 205 in there. I should just do a doubler right out the gate for drive shaft re-work sake. I found the CAD files so its coming. Also making some mounts for the new fans i just picked up.

Haha yeah ill have to do those seals when i pull it apart. It sucks because its dripping on both sides. Its probably a drip a second id say...

What makes me think its seals is that it never leaked until i put it in 4wd. I could be wrong though.
 
Seriously, buy an SM465/NP208. Way better option for you. You can reuse your current driveshafts till you build a doubler.

Martin
 
I should just do a doubler right out the gate for drive shaft re-work sake.

That's my plan, shorten the rear shaft and extend the front with a long slip. I figure with the 37's I'll be fine with the 4:10's and the 203/205.

Haha yeah ill have to do those seals when i pull it apart. It sucks because its dripping on both sides. Its probably a drip a second id say...

that's leaking much worse than mine ever did and mine started leaking once I started using 4wd too. Who knows how long the axle had sat before I used it.
 
Seriously, buy an SM465/NP208. Way better option for you. You can reuse your current driveshafts till you build a doubler.

Martin

Ive never seen that combo. Will my current 208 bolt up to a 465 with the right adapter? I wonder length wise how that compares to my current setup.

That's my plan, shorten the rear shaft and extend the front with a long slip. I figure with the 37's I'll be fine with the 4:10's and the 203/205.



that's leaking much worse than mine ever did and mine started leaking once I started using 4wd too. Who knows how long the axle had sat before I used it.

lol its going to be square front shaft time for me. My front 60 came off a wood chipping truck...i doubt they did much 4wd.
 
No, your current NP208 will not work with an SM465. TH350 and TH700R4's have 27 spline output shafts. TH400's and SM465/NP208 combos have 32 spline output shafts.

You could make your current NP208 work by swapping input shafts.

Martin
 
As far as finding an SM465/NP208 combo, it should be simple. Every 1981-1987 K10 or K20 pickup, K10 or K20 Suburban, and 4x4 Blazer or Jimmy, that had a 4 speed, had an SM465/NP208. Starting in 1985, they also had the superior hydraulic clutch setup.

Martin
 
No, your current NP208 will not work with an SM465. TH350 and TH700R4's have 27 spline output shafts. TH400's and SM465/NP208 combos have 32 spline output shafts.

You could make your current NP208 work by swapping input shafts.

Martin

Oh ok. Thats a lot of work for my lazy self lol.

As far as finding an SM465/NP208 combo, it should be simple. Every 1981-1987 K10 or K20 pickup, K10 or K20 Suburban, and 4x4 Blazer or Jimmy, that had a 4 speed, had an SM465/NP208. Starting in 1985, they also had the superior hydraulic clutch setup.

Martin

Interesting i didnt know thats what they came with. Ive seen maybe 1 manual blazer out here. Autos are just way more popular for some reason.

I would really like the hydro clutch setup...is that possible for older 465's?
 
Skunked have you seen this?

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/5128148120.html

Im not sure if you need anything from him but i was thinking about getting the 14 bolt and the np203...


yeah I saw it. He had it for sale for a while and now he's parting it.

I was wondering what kind of 205 he has.....cheap price on the 241 too.

But I just found a guy with a th400/Np205 (32 spline) combo that I'm buying next weekend :D I have the 203 already so I just need to get the 203/205 adapter and the 32 spline 203 input shaft.
 
yeah I saw it. He had it for sale for a while and now he's parting it.

I was wondering what kind of 205 he has.....cheap price on the 241 too.

But I just found a guy with a th400/Np205 (32 spline) combo that I'm buying next weekend :D I have the 203 already so I just need to get the 203/205 adapter and the 32 spline 203 input shaft.


Yeah i think im going to get the 14 bolt and the 203. He still has both. I could build the 14 with a locker and 5.38s, turn around the gear set in it for some quick money. Im thinking itll probably be 4.10 or 4.56. I also have a semi float to sell and when the time is right after i build this 14 i can sell the one thats currently under it.

Sounds like a lot of work but id be able to build the 14 bolt i want for next to nothing, it would be easier to do a gear install with the axle out and not under the truck. Im also rubbing inside the fender wells because my WMS is narrower than a regular 14 bolt so i would gain that as well.
 
Yeah. I mean realistically it's ok but I need to do the gear change anyway so it seems like a good opportunity since it will be out and I can rebuild it properly.

I happen to have a pair of 14BFF disk brake brackets in a horrendous orange color :haha:
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom