CK5
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73 K20....crossmember time

How will it effect my braking ability if the truck died on a hill? right now it's two feet on the pedal to get the sob to stop if and when it dies lol.

Then something is wrong. There should be a check valve in line, you should not lose your vacuum power brake assist when the engine dies.

Martin
 
Then something is wrong. There should be a check valve in line, you should not lose your vacuum power brake assist when the engine dies.

Martin

You're not supposed to lose the hydro assist, either. There should be 2 or 3 cycles' worth of pressurized fluid in the accumulator. Though it's worth mentioning that this function does not appear to work in any of my trucks. :dunno:
 
You're not supposed to lose the hydro assist, either. There should be 2 or 3 cycles' worth of pressurized fluid in the accumulator. Though it's worth mentioning that this function does not appear to work in any of my trucks. :dunno:

Ok ill look into that! It could be a simple fix. Who knows maybe i have some air bubble in the lines...

Then something is wrong. There should be a check valve in line, you should not lose your vacuum power brake assist when the engine dies.

Martin

Ah i see. Is the valve the softball sized thing next to the master cylinder?
 
You're not supposed to lose the hydro assist, either. There should be 2 or 3 cycles' worth of pressurized fluid in the accumulator. Though it's worth mentioning that this function does not appear to work in any of my trucks. :dunno:
Ok ill look into that! It could be a simple fix. Who knows maybe i have some air bubble in the lines...


Just to clarify, I'm talking about hydroboost brakes. If you have hydroboost brakes, you should have a few cycles' worth of fluid after the engine stops. Just like vacuum brakes. This would not apply to you (yet?) since you are still running vacuum brakes.
 
Ah i see. Is the valve the softball sized thing next to the master cylinder?


that's cruise control... the valve is in the vac hose to the booster, either inline, or or in the booster grommet with the hose attached to it...
 
that's cruise control... the valve is in the vac hose to the booster, either inline, or or in the booster grommet with the hose attached to it...

Ok cool thanks!

Just to clarify, I'm talking about hydroboost brakes. If you have hydroboost brakes, you should have a few cycles' worth of fluid after the engine stops. Just like vacuum brakes. This would not apply to you (yet?) since you are still running vacuum brakes.


Oh ok! sounds like hydro boost is a worthwhile upgrade. once im done with the manual swap and alternator upgrade I might turn my attention to that.
 
Hopefully your manual swap turns out better than mine, maybe you'll have all your gears! Lol


I've been crying in the corner looking at rebuild prices...
 
Hopefully your manual swap turns out better than mine, maybe you'll have all your gears! Lol


I've been crying in the corner looking at rebuild prices...


Oh man that sucks! just read your thread. I sure hope mine works out better! im almost ready to take out my 700r4. Hopefully I dont drop it lol.
 
aven't updated in a while. Just passed my DC electronics class last Thursday and AC started this Monday. It's been brutal so far because the classes are condensed.

I also started a new position at the lab. Waiting to get through the probation to hopefully get a raise. I was a mech technician before and I've switched to a maintenance machinist. The job is a bit dirtier than the old one but it doesn't bother me. I get to work on CNC machines and all other machinery associated with a machine shop. I also have access to a large waterjet, which I'll be sent to Washington to train on, a full sand blasting room, powder coatin and paint booth.

Other than that I'm still working on the truck on the weekends. Auto tranny is ready to come out this weekend. I have most off the parts for my 465 to go in after.
 
Can't wait to see how you like/enjoy the new setup:popcorn:

Me too! I know ill love it but i think it will be a lot better than i thought. Im thinking ill probably head to hollister once its "finished" to try it out. Last year we had a terrible snow year, which means less snowboarding but more dirt biking/wheeling! Itll be interesting to see what happens this year since they say el nino is coming.

While i have the tranny out its probably a wise idea to lift the motor up and replace the rubber motor mounts with the full DIY4x cradle. Its $238 but it include the mounts so not too bad.

I was debating on buying another pre smog carb for this thing but im thinking for another $150 i could probably scrounge around for the tbi stuff...

Ill probably end up buying the carb used off ebay, rebuild it, at least get my test runs in before i go through the wiring mess of tbi.
 
While i have the tranny out its probably a wise idea to lift the motor up and replace the rubber motor mounts with the full DIY4x cradle. Its $238 but it include the mounts so not too bad.

I thought that was designed for the 69-72 first generation?
 
Either way i think its probably worth it to connect the frame in that spot...especially if i lift the motor up. TNA has a nice crossmember but im not sure if you can pull the pan with it on...
 
Well phuck. The front of my frame is broken pretty bad. It split between the steering bpx brace kit on top. Ill have to pull the whole front clip off. While im there ill rip out the joke of a crossmember out thats in there. Might as well box the frame in too. It sucks this had to happen when im just a few weeks away from a test drive. Oh well I guess this truck will be more badass when im done.





On a slightly better note I finally got the damn tranny out. Bye bye automatic!





I need some input on engine mounts. Ive seen ORD's and I like them but there a little expensive. Diy4x is 70 bucks cheaper. Id really like to tie the frame together there but the crossmembers arent cheap either so I may have to do something myself. I have poly mounts for my trans...so its ok to run poly for the motor right?
 
Yes you want to run poly on the engine and trans, not one or the other.

Is the frame cracked all the way around? I just received my weld on frame braces yesterday from ORD.

Have you looked at the TNA crossmember? You can also run the ORD with the DIY mounts.
 
Yes you want to run poly on the engine and trans, not one or the other.

Is the frame cracked all the way around? I just received my weld on frame braces yesterday from ORD.

Have you looked at the TNA crossmember? You can also run the ORD with the DIY mounts.

It starts at the top and snakes its way over to the lower steering box bolt. Its a pretty good sized one. I plan on taking the rivets out, laying down a weld over the whole crack then ill grind it down and plate it. Ill weld it a bit on the inside too. After that id like to scrap the crossmember and put a dom tube one in with the frame boxing kit. Should be very solid after that.

I looked at tna. Its a great looking piece but 275 bucks is a little rich for me. I think I could make the ord one.
 

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