CK5
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73 K20....crossmember time
- Thread starter wetoolowdingbangow
- Start date
Not in the rocks I wheel
Longbeds get stuck shortbeds and blazers wheel circles around them.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah idk. I guess every wheelbase has its benefits. Having seen some video of longbeds on the rubicon...it doesnt look like much fun, even bobbed. Even with the blazer id have to do 3 point turns on the trails now and again.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
I forgot about summit carrying paint. They have a gallon of sour candy apple green for $80! Hmmm.
last night i didnt get much done. I took the brake lines off and continued getting the rust of the frame. I suppose once i cut the frame down Ill have to bend my own brake line. yay!
Ive got more parts still on there way. Some shackles for the front and body lift pucks. I have the poly mounts already. Metal is also on the way for the frame bracing. I need to try to find the location of the hole for the front upper shackle hanger for 52s...
last night i didnt get much done. I took the brake lines off and continued getting the rust of the frame. I suppose once i cut the frame down Ill have to bend my own brake line. yay!
Ive got more parts still on there way. Some shackles for the front and body lift pucks. I have the poly mounts already. Metal is also on the way for the frame bracing. I need to try to find the location of the hole for the front upper shackle hanger for 52s...
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Tonight I cut the frame!! I took 11.5 out of it. Seems legit lol. Ill be ready to weld it up tomorrow night, at least the butt weld. Still waiting to get the plating metal.
Pulled the brake lines too since they were all rotted out. I guess ill have to bend up my own line.
Ive also started to drill out the shackle bracket so im hoping I can get the shackle flip on tomorrow, which would be some great progress.
Im wondering if theres any point to buying the weld on steering brace kit? Should I just make some standoffs, weld them to the frame through a .25" plate boxing the frame?
Pulled the brake lines too since they were all rotted out. I guess ill have to bend up my own line.
Ive also started to drill out the shackle bracket so im hoping I can get the shackle flip on tomorrow, which would be some great progress.
Im wondering if theres any point to buying the weld on steering brace kit? Should I just make some standoffs, weld them to the frame through a .25" plate boxing the frame?
That's a big step! I have always been scared to cut a frame. But I'm not very good at fab work.
No Z cut huh?
I guess since your boxing it......
I guess since your boxing it......
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah thanks! Keepin the sawzall straight wasnt too bad. I'm sure there's a better way. Haha you made that sweet cage right!? I figured if I screw up I'm just tube framing it lol.
Z cutting is over rated lol! After seeing blazinzuks it's perfectly fine to cut straight. I mean the Z would have been stronger I'm sure, probably would've done it if it was a drag car but I plan to plate all 3 outer sides and the main section inside. It'll be burly once it's done. Then at some point it'll get boxed too. Overkill probably but that gives me piece of mind.
Looks good man. So what's the plan for the rear? 63s?
Be a mighty fine time to link it
Be a mighty fine time to link it
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Looks good man. So what's the plan for the rear? 63s?
Be a mighty fine time to link it
Id love to link it!! I was thinking about it but I feel like I dont have a very good understanding of linking. I definitely need to read up. I think my 2 priorities for this year will be a new motor and buying a 4wd tow rig. Ive gotten stuck already with my 2wd rig.
I ran 56s on the rear of the blazer, gonna stick with those again but I am switching out to 52s in the front! Should be interesting. I either need to use limit straps to keep the driveshaft together or build a square front shaft.
Make sure you square it up before you start burning it in. I measured like 40 times before I finally welded her up. Having two people helps a bunch, I know I knocked mine out trying to measure and move the frame myself.
One thing to think about is in boarding the rear springs. Pretty easy to do. Just go in so the inside edge of the spring is mostly in line with the outside edge of the frame. It adds flex and doesn't affect stability much.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah I measured and used the bubble level quite a bit. I tried to 3 point it with jacks but I decided it was easier to hang it from the ceiling with straps. Tacked it up just a bit ago. Its all level and within a 16th out at the end of the frame. Probably a bit over the top but its always good to know its all where it needs to be. The only issue ive run into so far is that the bottom rail of the frame is about an 1/8th inch inward on both sides. Im debating on forcing it out. I dont think its much stress but it would make plating a hell of a lot easier.
Just go to tractor supply. I know there is one in gilroy (South Bay) or there's a few out to the valley. theres one past Stockton in Lodi or by Manteca on I5 where I got my last truck box.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Ok cool good to know!
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Got the frame all welded up last night. I used a clamp to bring the outside frames flush with eachother. Wasnt much force so it should be ok. Of course i used a piece of steel to clamp with and welded it on through the backside lol. Knocked it off with a hammer though!
So you broke your camera?
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Hahahaha! Im so shy with my flux core welds.
My welds are doodoo. C'mon with the pictures...
