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'74 K5 build: Smurf

Next up was getting the whole setup in, the assembly on the ground was so much easier than up there, removing one by one was a nightmare and found out some bolts and nuts were loose probably because of lack of access. This is where harbor freight came to the rescue with the 2000lbs trans jack.

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Now I started drilling holes for the crossmember and then tried to move the setup to the center and the 205 tcase is hitting the exhaust on the passenger side.
Looks like driver's side is ok.
No the problem is that the fuel pump and filter are where the exhaust needs to be so now I am trying to figure out the best setup to make things coexist

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I thought you got rid of this truck sir.
Was under the impression you were turning your efforts to another project. Like the burb or something.
 
I thought you got rid of this truck sir.
Was under the impression you were turning your efforts to another project. Like the burb or something.
Well if you read the last couple of updates, I did sell it, but with the improvements I had planned so I need to get it done and deliver it.
Chris has been more than patient with me but it's down to the end now. I hope I can get this done today and waiting on a response from Howell for the tc lockup control.
The engine has a Howell tbi conversion and I hope they included that in the harness but I don't see it.
 
Last thing I did was finish the first crossmember and everything cleared.
That's a legit truck. I did not realize that switching from TH350 to 700R4 would end up causing so many headaches. From what you said and others described on forum it seemed pretty straightforward. Good work!
 
That's a legit truck. I did not realize that switching from TH350 to 700R4 would end up causing so many headaches. From what you said and others described on forum it seemed pretty straightforward. Good work!
I underestimated the switch.
Part of the challenge is the doubler.
With a single tcase it's a much more straightforward switch.
Plus in this case the extra stuff Aaron did like the driveline ebrake, the Dakota digital gauges with digital gear indicator, the skid plates.
All need attention with the change.
I definitely didn't realize how many things are interlinked.

I got the second crossmember finished today along with connecting the shifter, the gear indicator module, ebrake cable.

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So to continue the update.

I had a leak in the left side rear hub, checked the shaft bolts and they were all loose.
Tightened them and no leaks.

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Then I had to hook up the tv cable and the transmission cooler lines and I couldn't get the cable sheath to fit in the case, researched the options and no other sizes or variations existed so going back to the case I find the old grommet still there.
Removing it made it fit.

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So now I topped off the fluids and gave it a test drive and I drove it down the street and it didn't upshift and the gas pedal felt too stiff.
It was late so I called it a day and went inside to research the adjustment on the cable.
Turns out I had it too tight so the next morning I adjusted it properly and tried to start the truck and no start. The light in the dash for ignition is not working.
I traced the lines and everything seems to be good.
Looked at the gas gage and it was empty so I put 5 gallons and still no go.
I spent a day checking everything and I couldn't find the problem.
Could it be the ecm? Or the coil?
 
So now I topped off the fluids and gave it a test drive and I drove it down the street and it didn't upshift and the gas pedal felt too stiff.
It was late so I called it a day and went inside to research the adjustment on the cable.
Turns out I had it too tight so the next morning I adjusted it properly and tried to start the truck and no start. The light in the dash for ignition is not working.
I traced the lines and everything seems to be good.
Looked at the gas gage and it was empty so I put 5 gallons and still no go.
I spent a day checking everything and I couldn't find the problem.
Could it be the ecm? Or the coil?

With the tv cable adjustment, did it mess with the park position of the shifter so it thinks it’s not in park anymore? Maybe that’s why it won’t start?
 
With the tv cable adjustment, did it mess with the park position of the shifter so it thinks it’s not in park anymore? Maybe that’s why it won’t start?
It turns over but doesn't start.
And the shifter didn't change position, just got the tv cable looser.
I am going over everything I touched to see if it moved or affected any wiring.
 

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